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Old 09-15-2011, 02:00 AM   #921

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yambor44 View Post
I brewed recently with 13 pounds in my 50L with my 20L malt pipe and it was THICK! Made it all the way thru but I cannot see going more....
Is there a problem doing 20 liters in the 50 litre that requires a smaller malt pipe? What about for high gravity beers?



 
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:28 PM   #922
FiveKaiBrewing
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ive been able to do high grain bill by mashing, removing grain then adding the remaining grain that was left over and did not fit in the first mash and just runing the wort through that new grain in a sense mashing twice. worked for me ph was good and i hit my numbers on the dot.


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Old 09-15-2011, 03:21 PM   #923
londonvictoria
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That's interesting. What australian forum is that, please?

 
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:27 PM   #924
Yambor44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedasleeve View Post
Is there a problem doing 20 liters in the 50 litre that requires a smaller malt pipe? What about for high gravity beers?
I guess not. See fivekai's response below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FiveKaiBrewing View Post
ive been able to do high grain bill by mashing, removing grain then adding the remaining grain that was left over and did not fit in the first mash and just runing the wort through that new grain in a sense mashing twice. worked for me ph was good and i hit my numbers on the dot.

 
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:42 PM   #925

To be more specific: Do you *really* need to buy an additional 20L mash pipe to use in your 50L Braumeister for smaller batches or can you simply use the existing 50L mash pipe and not fill it up?

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Old 09-15-2011, 05:26 PM   #926
Yambor44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedasleeve View Post
To be more specific: Do you *really* need to buy an additional 20L mash pipe to use in your 50L Braumeister for smaller batches or can you simply use the existing 50L mash pipe and not fill it up?
Good point. If you only put enough water/grain in the 50L malt pipe to do a 20L batch the pumps will run dry before it circulates to the top of the pipe and spills back over. So I would say no.

However, what would be the outcome to use enough water so that wouldn't happen, with only enough grain for a 20L batch? A very thin mash, but would it work without affecting the quality of the mash/final product? So basically water for somewhere between 20 and 50 liters but making a 20 L batch.

Anyone?

 
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:47 PM   #927
Yambor44
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Well I'm about 20 minutes into my boil on Yoops Centennial/Cascade IPA.

My grain mill is on the fritz again.

I've had it apart, cleaned it, readjusted it to 1.0MM and have had a friend do the same. It worked fine for one 5 gallon batch and now it's worse than ever. I had to dump the grains, spin the rollers, start it with zero grain in it and then add a little at a time to finish the grind this morning. The roller the drill is hooked to free spins and the other doesn't move. when I check it each time it moves freely with my hand.

Any idea's?

Also, I took a small video of all the grain that reached the boil portion. It was quite a bit.I didn't do anything differently. Used 2 gallons of sparge water after raising the malt pipe. I'll post it later if you can see it in the vid after I upload it.

 
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:46 PM   #928
Munch671
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I'm curious to see if anyone has run one of these long enough to do a comparison on power consumption VS propane. Most electric conversions for brewing are just the heating element from a water heater where as this has the heating element, the pump, and the electronics (would think the electronics is minimal).
Has anyone run any tests or checked to see how this compares to brewing a batch with Propane?
For instance, is the price to propane similar or is running this thing like turning on a window air conditioner full blast during the month of June and your electric bill jumps up 100 bucks.

{EDIT}
One more question. from the pics in the first few pages, it looks like the 20l grain tube has some wiggle room around it. Does anyone know if the 50l grain tube would work with the 20l to allow for more grain, thus higher gravity beers with a little modification? I read all 90 some pages but don't remember seeing anything.

Thanks!

 
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Old 09-22-2011, 03:59 PM   #929
wyzazz
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Pump draw is minimal on my LG pump (less than 3A) so I'd imagine that these draw even less, and depending on the wattage of the heating element (I run a 5500W element) your draw can vary. Now let's say I ran my system full out for 3 hours, pump and element on full blast.

That would be 5860W total for 180mins, that makes 17.58KWH. Multiply this by your cost/KWH, let's just say it's pretty high at $.06 and you get $1.05. Keep in mind I've slightly overestimated things here to keep it simple, in all likleyhood you won't be running 5860W for 3 hours so your cost per brew (for fuel) is under a dollar.

Cheers!
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And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)

 
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Old 09-22-2011, 04:44 PM   #930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyzazz View Post
Pump draw is minimal on my LG pump (less than 3A) so I'd imagine that these draw even less, and depending on the wattage of the heating element (I run a 5500W element) your draw can vary. Now let's say I ran my system full out for 3 hours, pump and element on full blast.

That would be 5860W total for 180mins, that makes 17.58KWH. Multiply this by your cost/KWH, let's just say it's pretty high at $.06 and you get $1.05. Keep in mind I've slightly overestimated things here to keep it simple, in all likleyhood you won't be running 5860W for 3 hours so your cost per brew (for fuel) is under a dollar.

Cheers!
Also, keep in mind Munch671 that gas burners are not as efficient as electric in our case. The flame has to heat the pot which in turn heats the water. Plus you lose a lot of energy up and around the outside of the pot.



 
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