OK so the way I see it is that I have a couple choices. First is:
1. single element outlet or
2. double outlet.
I am leaning on double outlet since plugging and unplugging on the fly in a brew session poses a greater safety issue in my mind than flipping a switch (though I could be wrong there).
So now I either stick with the current design OR come up with a third design with that switch you mentioned. Because I respect your know how and can see the "engineering" aspect of your mind working toward simplicity (i.e. 2 switches instead of 4 - ha); I am leaning on the latter, create a third design.
Walker - Would you be so kind as to post a link to one of those switches from mouser? I can attempt to locate one locally. Additionally, if you could explain how they are wired, that would be great as well. I will attempt to work in a new drawing today with your better engineered concept. Thanks in advance!
A couple notes:
I should have mentioned, the HLT will likely be a dedicated keggle, or my megapot in my set up. My friend has a line in on a free keg (or so he told me), so if that pans out the HLT would be free. That is really the basis for us making it a permanent fixture.
The way I see it, even if I bought some extra $2.60 switches because I rushed the order, I am ok with that (shame on me
). The key for me is having a well designed setup that makes intuitive sense and is safe when I am using it (more important than saving a few bucks).
My urgency to get this up and running is clear, because my chance at getting a free certified electrician inspection is coming up in 1-2weeks. So I want to get my build done by then so I can do a test run with him around. He is currently living in DC so it is tough to get him around.
To avoid confusion, I will be simply putting in 10g wire throughout my box. It might cost a little more, but it will be durable and avoid my making a simple wiring gauge mistake. As you said this is a current thirsty unit. There isn't that much wire in the panel, so I will take that one on the chin.