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Old 03-04-2011, 02:53 PM   #111
CidahMastah
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Ah crap.

I ordered a 5500watt one (I want to be able to do 10 gallon batches). For some reason I thought I could dodge buying a probe for now (thought I needed the SSR).

Ok, so it looks like I am still on the hook for most of that cost (was hoping to delay it).

Which temp probe and SSR did you end up going with for your set up. I might as well get the ssr and temp probe as well, or stare blankly at my PID.


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Old 03-04-2011, 03:02 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by CidahMastah View Post
Ah crap.

I ordered a 5500watt one. For some reason I thought I could dodge buying a probe for now (thought I needed the SSR).

Ok, so it looks like I am still on the hook for most of that cost (was hoping to delay it).

Which temp probe did you end up going with for your set up. I might as well get the ssr and temp probe as well.
Sounds like you've made "mistake #1".... buying things before you were completely done understanding and planning the system.

I planned, planned, and re-planned for about two months before I ever purchased a single thing, and I'm glad I did, because my system kept changing on me the more I thought about it.

This is the probe I personally use:
http://cgi.ebay.com/RTD-PT100-Temper...item3a53cc96fc

It's solid as hell and has 1/2" threads to screw into a pipe fitting.

I originally used a much cheaper ($5 or $6) probe that had a spring around the point where the cable attached to the probe for support. But, it ended up breaking on me and I had to replace it, so I went with the burly one that I could attach my own cable to easily. If my wiring ever causes me problems again, I can just put a new cable on it.


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Old 03-04-2011, 03:06 PM   #113
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Ah crap.

I ordered a 5500watt one (I want to be able to do 10 gallon batches). For some reason I thought I could dodge buying a probe for now (thought I needed the SSR).

Ok, so it looks like I am still on the hook for most of that cost (was hoping to delay it).

Which temp probe and SSR did you end up going with for your set up. I might as well get the ssr and temp probe as well, or stare blankly at my PID.
Oh.. and the SSR I use was just whatever the cheapest 40A SSR+heatsink I could find on ebay. I spent $15 on the SSR+heatsink, shipped from China. A quick search for "40A SSR" on ebay turns up one for $8. And the "SSR heatsink" turns up one for $4.
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:20 PM   #114
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Sounds like you've made "mistake #1".... buying things before you were completely done understanding and planning the system.
Guilty - I thought that I should snarf up a couple of the things I knew I would have to buy... but like you said, I should only be buying the rewiring stuff for the house, not the controller hardware!
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Old 03-04-2011, 05:58 PM   #115
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Eh.. once you've got a PID that's the majority of the cost. As Walker points out, the SSR is less than $10 and you can get a temp probe for $20 or so easily. The 5500W element may need some control, but it'll bring things to a boil much more quickly than the 3000W would. If you'd bought a 3000W element, you'd want to change it out eventually (especially since you say you want to step up to 10G). Better to buy what you ultimately want than to buy the smaller one and upgrade later.
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:13 PM   #116
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Eh.. once you've got a PID that's the majority of the cost. As Walker points out, the SSR is less than $10 and you can get a temp probe for $20 or so easily. The 5500W element may need some control, but it'll bring things to a boil much more quickly than the 3000W would. If you'd bought a 3000W element, you'd want to change it out eventually (especially since you say you want to step up to 10G). Better to buy what you ultimately want than to buy the smaller one and upgrade later.
Yeah, I guess in my mind I was like... I know I need the option of ten gallon boils, get the 5500W and PID (paypal account racing) haha.

But I haven't even looked at the rest of the control panel, since I am only planning on doing the boil part right now, the automated Mash tun will likely be a winter project. Walker was right I didn't understand how the PID was wired.

My buddy and I plan on splitting batches for stuff we both like (arrogant bastard, etc.). This way we can brew one for each of us with half the effort.



EDIT:
Part collecting has started!

Have
1 x QO2100
1 x 8 slot QO breaker load station
1 x QO120
1 x QO230
1 x QO230GFI
1 x camco 5500 heating element
1 x PID
1 x 40amp SRS relay and heat sink
1 x RTD temp probe


Need:
90 feet of #2 aluminum wire
QO115
QO115
12/3 romex (roll)
2 x 240 plug in female
2 x 240 plug in male
Control box
1 amp fuses for PID
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:03 PM   #117
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Hey Guys - hoping you can help me some more on this. I am looking for some guidance on my wiring control panel. Basically I have been looking through electric brewery but I am going to do a VERY dumbed down version.

My ultimate goal is a box running off one PID and SRS that I can manually plug and unplug from one function to the next.

Eventually I will likely do a herms, but for now I am looking to rig up a box that will be used for my BK and HLT. I am looking to use one PID in a contorl box with and SSR.

The plan is to have my BK and HLT with separate elements and cords. I will plug in one (say HLT) when I am using it, then unplug and plug in the other (say BK). I am not doing any fancy stuff, just what i need to get by.

So the plan is to have one box that can go from pot to pot by simply unpluging the cord and plugging in the next functioning element.

I am getting confused looking at electric brewery because I am not sure exactly what aspects of the electric panel I can omit given my more simplistic design idea.


1. Do I need two power relays as shown here (http://theelectricbrewery.com/contro...part-2?page=13) or can I use the one relay to wire to an on/off switch and then to the SSR? this would be a safety feature to keep the juice off the SSR independent of what the PID commands (I think)
2. I can remove the shunt since I am not using voltmeters right?
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:31 PM   #118
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You can remove the shunt, the extra DC power supplies, the doorbell transoformers, the element select switch, the extra L6-30R plug, and yeah you only need a power-in contactor and a power out contactor. Actually, you don't even technically need a power-out contactor since he's using that to guarantee that both elements don't turn on at the same time. Just wire direct from the SSR to the plug.
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:44 PM   #119
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So it would go from the power in (receptacle male plug) to power in relay to the SSR?

Is the relay the same thing as a contactor?
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:52 PM   #120
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so:


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