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Old 02-28-2011, 09:37 PM   #31
Cpt_Kirks
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Sep 2008
Lakeland TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
It's not the ground causing you problems. The ground wire is litterally not connected to anything in a properly built system. You can bang on it with a hammer, piss on it, call it names, whatever you want, and it will never cause your GFI to pop.

The only reason the GFI would pop is because something is allowing current to escape from the hot-line of your power source. When the GFI sees that there is more current on the hot line than there is on the neutral line, it will kill the juice.
I pulled the encapsulated element from that stick, and tried it in a pan of water, with the ground attached to the pan. It works fine, no trips. The hot and neutral connections are fully potted in JB weld.

I'm going to try mounting it in the keggle. If it trips the GFCI, I can just unscrew it and replace it....if I ever get the $&@#*&#$%@ holes drilled...

 
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:10 AM   #32
Dgonza9
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May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
Daaaaang, elements require a BIG hole. I drilled until my arms got tired, and the hole is still a little too small.

I still have one more hole in my HLT, then I can start on the boil keggle.
I was right where you were about a week ago, except my corded 1/2" drill was smoking while I was trying to widen one hole, with still another to go. I was blaming my drill bits, etc.

What I learned was that I needed to use my cordless drill with a gear box. I dialed it down to first gear (has 1 and 2). This gave it the right power with the right speed. A little oil and really it never even got hot.

Honestly, took five minutes after that.

Here's a shot of the drill I used: IGNORE THE ARROW. IT'S THE 1 AND 2 SELECTOR SWITCH YOU WANT TO BE SURE TO PUT ON 1!


IGNORE THE ARROW. IT'S THE 1 AND 2 SELECTOR SWITCH YOU WANT TO BE SURE TO PUT ON 1!
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Old 03-01-2011, 04:59 AM   #33
Jknapp
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Aug 2009
Seattle
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I originally used heatsticks, but then mounted them. I'm real happy with 2x 2000w elements for 6 gal batches. Don't think I'd do it any other way. Don't need a pid, don't need a ssr. Turn them both on, or 1 at a time. Easy peasy.
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:23 PM   #34
Cpt_Kirks
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Lakeland TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jknapp View Post
I originally used heatsticks, but then mounted them. I'm real happy with 2x 2000w elements for 6 gal batches. Don't think I'd do it any other way. Don't need a pid, don't need a ssr. Turn them both on, or 1 at a time. Easy peasy.
Interesting how you positioned the elements. I'm thinking of placing them closer together. Once I get the first hole big enough, I'll screw the element in temporarily to see how to place the other.

My elements will be on the back of the keggle, my switched outlets are on the back of my stand, so the cords are out of the way.

Front:


Close Up Front:


Back:

 
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:18 PM   #35
AnchorBock
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Apr 2010
Minneapolis
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Is it safe to rest a copper immersion chiller on an element or do you need a false bottom to take the weight?
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Old 03-02-2011, 04:35 PM   #36
Walker
I use secondaries. :p
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnchorBock View Post
Is it safe to rest a copper immersion chiller on an element or do you need a false bottom to take the weight?
Mine rests on the element and I haven't had any issues, but it probably helps that (due to the way my coil is shaped), the bulk of the force is applied to the base of the element where it is most stable.

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Old 03-02-2011, 04:36 PM   #37
Walker
I use secondaries. :p
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Forgot to add...

if you make the top parts of the coil "J" shaped, you can hang it on the rim of the kettle for support instead of letting the weight fully rest on the element.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:20 PM   #38
Cpt_Kirks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnchorBock View Post
Is it safe to rest a copper immersion chiller on an element or do you need a false bottom to take the weight?
When you think about it, you only have the weight of the copper to worry about. It's not really that much weight.

This hasn't been an issue for me yet. I use heatsticks and removed them before using my IC. Now, I have a plate chiller, am mounting the elements in my HLT and BK, and am thinking of converting my IC coil to a HERMS coil. So, I might have to play around with this.

 
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Old 03-02-2011, 09:18 PM   #39
klyph
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Dec 2009
North Pole, Alaska
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I rest a 50' 1/2" copper chiller on my element, and it's mounted with a weldless fitting.
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Old 03-08-2011, 08:08 PM   #40
KaceMN
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Feb 2011
Rochester, MN
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For those of you who've installed heating element(s) directly through the sides of your keggles/pots...how does this effect whirlpooling functionality?? Does the increased turbulence throw the whirlpool efficiency? If whirlpooling is effected...are there methods to account for this?

 
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