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Old 02-21-2011, 10:01 PM   #1
starrfish
 
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I'm thinking about a project for later in the spring (after I get my mash manifold done).

I'm looking at a Cartridge Filter Housing Hop Randall build listed in the Northern Brewer Catalog.
Anyone found improvements to that design?
Anyone keep the Randall in the fridge with the tanks? Does this help reduce the foam issue?

Are there any easy ways to hook and unhook a Randal up from a 2 tap system. Many of my beers just don't need it... I did see mention of a by-pass somewhere... any advice?


I plan to brew several APA's & IPA's in a row this spring & summer, always been interested in trying the Randall method.

Thanks in advance
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:57 PM   #2
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This guy has a pretty good way of doing a homemade one, and he just uses a separate picnic tap when he connects it to his kegs. Seems like that might be a nice option...

http://dcsanders.com/?m=201008
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Old 02-22-2011, 12:29 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuttsjp View Post
This guy has a pretty good way of doing a homemade one, and he just uses a separate picnic tap when he connects it to his kegs. Seems like that might be a nice option...

http://dcsanders.com/?m=201008
That looks like a good quick down & dirty to quick disconnect.

Any suggestions on a switch valve inline to still serve off tap? maybe to leave it inline for when I need it. suggestions?

Not opposed to above solution but looking for options...
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Old 02-23-2011, 03:08 PM   #4
dave73ok
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When I built that Randall, I thought of doing it inline and mounting it in the fridge, but honestly, I didn't plan on using it all that often, and I wanted a picnic tap to easily do some 'before and after' pours. I looked into switch valves, and thought that a picnic tap and a separate disconnect were simpler (and I already had them around).
Either way, it was an easy way to give it a little extra oomph.

 
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:45 PM   #5
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Found this on ebay last night

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-HOP-RANDALL-B...item45f0d4fb62

I think this is going to do what I want it to do... and I think I can build it much cheaper!

found a ball lock post for $12... which should only be a few bucks added to final build.

and thoughts on installing ball lock post? I'm pretty new to kegging and haven't broken down a keg fully yet.

Here is your part list, only thing I may switch out besides ball lock post is using a plastic hydrometer test cylinder, I cracked the bottom 1/2" on my 12" tube in the freezer, and it leaks now so I need another anyway. Are there any other gaskets or seals needed?

- A whole-house water sediment filter
- 3/4 to 1/2 inch reduction fittings, then 1/2 inch to 1/4 flare fittings
- A tube for the middle to act as a filter (it’s widely suggested to use a stainless steel tube, but I used a 10.5″ length of 1″ blowoff tube). I drilled about 20 holes in the bottom 1/4 of it to force the beer down through the hops.
- about 10 feet of beverage line and some clamps, and a picnic tap (I used 1/4 inch beer line)
- a few ounces of hops.

Nice Hop Randall build and any thoughts or words of wisdom on the build or my modifications would be appreciated!
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:55 PM   #6
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I've never thought of installing a ball lock post on it, but that's pretty cool! That would make switching from a picnic tap to a tower faucet pretty easy! Nice clean looking build he has.
I might have to give that a try, though I'd have to look into how to secure the post. I assume it wouldn't be too hard.

I added no other gaskets or seals, just used pipe thread tape on the fittings. I pretty much used things I had around the basement, outside of the filter housing, of course.

 
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:23 PM   #7
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Where did you get your filter housing? If found a few and the price varies starting about $25 and going up from there I do want a clear housing, I saw some white ones that were cheaper, but only by a few bucks.

Rough estimate on cost should be about $50 based around a $25 filter a $12 ball lock post and a couple of bucks in fittings (not including parts I have).
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:45 PM   #8
jrathfon
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First post:

I just made one last week by mushing together all the threads I read here and everything that was linked. You could find cheaper parts, but I was building mine for a party later that night. Basically I went to the big box store (home depot) and found their only clear housing full house filter ($35 i think), which also has the handy "bypass" switch on top so you can compare randallized and non-randallized beverage. The fittings on the filter housing are 3/4" FPT, home depot only sells pipe thread parts to reduce a single size, so I went with a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer, and a 1/2" to 1/4" reducer, then a 1/4" MPT to 1/4" male flare adapter. (Note: posted in other threads there is a 3/4" to 1/4" reducer and even a 3/4" MPT to 1/4" male flare fitting which can be found online, thus reducing the fittings required and thus the price) My kegerator is setup so every hose is 1/4" flare, making it easy to switch between corny and sanke parts, or in this case, adding an inline randall. The hoses all have 1/4" female flare parts and all hardware (disconnects, randall's, tap shanks) have male flare parts. So all I needed to do was make the randall have 1/4" male flare fittings, and make up a "5' jumper" of beverage line with 1/4" female flares which went between the liquid ball lock disconnect and the randall, the tap side tube was screwed into the out on the randall.

So all my hardware has these fittings:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewin...4-mfl-gas.html

And all my tubing has these fittings:

http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewin...wivel-nut.html

To convert the filter housing, I cut a piece of 1" PVC to 9 and 7/8" to fit inside the housing where the filter once was. I then used a dremel with a disc cutting tool to cut in about 10 parallel slits on each side of the tube on the bottom 1/4 of the tube, to make beer pass through the length of the hops before heading to the tap. These slots worked very well, no clogging and minimal leaf parts exiting to the glass. I'll likely switch to stainless when I get some more time to fuss around with it.

Foaming: Yes, I put the randall inside the fridge on the compressor hump. I have a standard mini-fridge and was still able to fit both corny kegs in as well. The key to not foaming is A) PURGING THE GAS initially when beer is first allowed to flow into the randall using the little pressure relief button on the side of the filter, B) REDUCING YOUR POURING PRESSURE, I turned the tank down to around 8 psi, and C) most importantly 10 FEET OF BEVERAGE TUBING TO THE TAP, this goes for all pouring applications. I had foaming for about 1/2 a pint glass, then nothing but perfect pours all night.

All in all I was amazed at how stupidly easy this was to build and look forward to putting honeycomb in there for a wit!

 
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:49 PM   #9
jrathfon
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Oh, right, and I had to cram 2 oz. of whole leaf hops in there, with the 1" pipe (home depot sells 2' sections instead of the whole 8 footer) 1.5 oz. is probably more appropriate, but my hops were in 1 oz. packages.

 
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:59 PM   #10
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Excellent info jrathfon.

I did find out that the ball lock post I'm looking at has a 5/8" thread so a 3/4 to 5/8 reduction fitting should do the trick!

I like the by-pass feature... may be worth the few extra bucks...
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