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Old 02-24-2011, 12:36 AM   #21
passedpawn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCuckerson View Post
Do you guys think the size of the kettle has anything to do with boil rate?
Your boil-off rate is ONLY determined by how much energy you put into the pot.

If you put a 1500W element into 2 very different pots, they would both boil off the exact same amount in the same time. The one with the wider mouth might evaporate a bit more, but it would be insignificant.


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Old 02-24-2011, 12:49 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCuckerson View Post
Hi everybody,

Last night I tested a prototype BK built with a 7gal AL pot and 2000w HD element on a 20A dedicated circuit. I brought 6.25 gal to a boil in 35 min, and measured the evaporation rate after 60 min to be at 5.75 gal.
Is that "brought 6.25 gallons of ground water to a boil in 35 minutes"?


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Old 02-24-2011, 01:11 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Walker View Post
Is that "brought 6.25 gallons of ground water to a boil in 35 minutes"?
No sorry, IPA was tapped that night.... Its funny how a good beer makes you lose track of time. The water was just over 100F, and it may have been a bit longer than 35min. My second experiment the following day (sober) I witnessed about 2.5 deg/min, so a 170f sparge to boil should be around 20min give or take.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:31 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCuckerson View Post
No sorry, IPA was tapped that night.... Its funny how a good beer makes you lose track of time. The water was just over 100F, and it may have been a bit longer than 35min. My second experiment the following day (sober) I witnessed about 2.5 deg/min, so a 170f sparge to boil should be around 20min give or take.
ok. That's more like it. I was going to call shenanigans on you.

with perfect insulation, it should take about 5 minutes to heat up 6.25 gallons by 10*F with 2000W.

edit: 105*F to 212*F would take about 50 minutes in a perfect world.
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:52 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passedpawn View Post
Your boil-off rate is ONLY determined by how much energy you put into the pot.

If you put a 1500W element into 2 very different pots, they would both boil off the exact same amount in the same time. The one with the wider mouth might evaporate a bit more, but it would be insignificant.
This is only true when you ignore heat loss. Some of that 1500W will be "wasted" through the surface area of the pot. The optimal pot size (that minimizes surface area losses) is h = 2r.

In other words, the pot DOES make a difference.

 
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:02 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp View Post
In other words, the pot DOES make a difference.
Absolutely the pot makes a difference...I have a hunch that keggles take a lot more energy due to the mass and the skirt both top and bottom...I'm afraid a 2000w element in a keggle would be very unimpressive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by McCuckerson View Post
Do you guys think the size of the kettle has anything to do with boil rate? or the ability to boil with lower wattage? Right now the 2KW element is in a 7.5gal AL pot. If I moved the element to a keggle would I still achieve a boil for the same size batch? It should right? I mean its all based on the size of the liquid the element is in?

I'm cooking up a 120VAC, 2 keggle system..... Pics to come soon!!!! once I buck up the membership fee!

E-brew...... That sounds like Hebrew.... I swear I haven't had a drop yet.
I would do a lot more testing before I attempted a keggle 2000w boil, perhaps a ton of isulation, but just all the surface area of a keg, and the mass has me concerned that it is much hungrier for energy....Pol reported needing 3700W to keep a boil in a keggle.

 
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Old 02-24-2011, 03:27 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkarp View Post
This is only true when you ignore heat loss. Some of that 1500W will be "wasted" through the surface area of the pot. The optimal pot size (that minimizes surface area losses) is h = 2r.

In other words, the pot DOES make a difference.
You are right. But the difference in heat lost from one pot to another would be minimal. Very minimal. And, with an electric HLT/BK, you're free to insulate if you wish.
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:21 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilserbrewer View Post
Absolutely the pot makes a difference...I have a hunch that keggles take a lot more energy due to the mass and the skirt both top and bottom...I'm afraid a 2000w element in a keggle would be very unimpressive.



I would do a lot more testing before I attempted a keggle 2000w boil, perhaps a ton of isulation, but just all the surface area of a keg, and the mass has me concerned that it is much hungrier for energy....Pol reported needing 3700W to keep a boil in a keggle.
4000watts in my keggle is good to go. 3700 watts might be fine as well, but I have 2 2000w elements
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:24 PM   #29
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With all that being said, why can I easily boil 6.5 gallons of H2O in an AL pot? AL is the better conducter and should be losing a ton of heat thru its walls. Yet it boiled the water impressively.

I do think JKarp is right: pot geometry has a large effect. You could not boil with an element in a pot that is 5' diameter by 3" deep; the convection would never occur. I think I'll leave it in the the AL pot until I go 220V. Anyway, I am still happy with the fact that a 5 gallon batch can be boiled with 120v..... we do agree on that right?
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:34 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McCuckerson View Post
we do agree on that right?
Yes sir. I am building (almost done. where the hell is that free time) jkarps CTB20. It's exciting to know that I could essentially do a 5G batch with it. I thought the 2000W element would limit me to 3.5G batches.


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