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Old 02-04-2011, 02:46 AM   #1
IrregularPulse
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Anyone have any idea what the temperatures get up to at the screw terminals of a 2000W heating element. I have an idea for sealing, but don't how hot that gets. I know what temps my idea can with stand though. Anyone have any clue?


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Old 02-04-2011, 02:33 PM   #2
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1 reply and it was deleted?


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Old 02-04-2011, 02:36 PM   #3
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I did not feel that my reply had enough evidence to back it up. I will hit my RIMS element with an IR temp gun next time I brew.
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:39 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ihomebrewing View Post
I did not feel that my reply had enough evidence to back it up. I will hit my RIMS element with an IR temp gun next time I brew.
I need the temp of the back plate where wires land on the terminals. Not the actual heating portion.
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:51 PM   #5
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Similar disclaimer, talking out of my butt, but I'd think 210F is a reasonable estimate if this is a boil kettle. The liquid and vessel should be a heat sink even if the internals of the element get heat passively from the heating portion.
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:54 PM   #6
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As long as you don't run them dry, they should never get above 212F
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Old 02-04-2011, 03:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M View Post
Similar disclaimer, talking out of my butt, but I'd think 210F is a reasonable estimate if this is a boil kettle. The liquid and vessel should be a heat sink even if the internals of the element get heat passively from the heating portion.
This is what I was thinking, but wanted to confirm. What I'm looking to do is this. Terminate my wires at the heating element. Cover terminals with RTV108 (rated up to +200 useful temperature range) then an oring on the back of the cord behind the stripped wires, then one before the terminals and then cover in large diameter heat shrink. The orings held in place by the shrink tubing should block any water, but if any does get through to the terminals, they are protected by the silicone. This is all if my weldless fitting develops a leak to begin with. I'd then cover the whole thing with mesh cable wrap to protect the heat shrink from getting damaged. Keeping in mind this is a Countertop Brutus 20 clone that will be operated in my kitchen, not in some commercial brewery. After seeing the heatsticks for sale at highgravitybrew.com, I think we way over complicate mounting elements.
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Old 02-04-2011, 03:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IrregularPulse View Post
This is what I was thinking, but wanted to confirm. What I'm looking to do is this. Terminate my wires at the heating element. Cover terminals with RTV108 (rated up to +200 useful temperature range)

...
Just so you know, the 200 is in celsius, so you won't have any problems with the silicone at all. I just built my heatstick with this sealant andv Gritsak's method. I haven't used it yet, but the method he uses is great, and cheap.

 
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:06 PM   #9
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Someone posted the use of a rubber plumbing fitting recently that has SS clamps on both ends. Seems like a simple and cheap method to protect the element end.

 
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanT View Post
Just so you know, the 200 is in celsius, so you won't have any problems with the silicone at all. I just built my heatstick with this sealant andv Gritsak's method. I haven't used it yet, but the method he uses is great, and cheap.
Thanks! I guess if I could read I wouldn't have had to start a thread. I don't see any reason for using the JB weld and coupler. I don't see any difference in his method over the standard method of the PVC cap and JB weld.
I want to use silicone for when the element needs replaced. all my stuff and easily be removed from the element and I won't have to cut the cord and make it shorter each time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by samc View Post
Someone posted the use of a rubber plumbing fitting recently that has SS clamps on both ends. Seems like a simple and cheap method to protect the element end.
Any link to the thread?


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