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Old 08-07-2013, 04:49 AM   #101
electrichead
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Channel66 View Post
I love this build. Props! What happened to the tap marker? And those killer handles?

Pics in post #51
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Old 08-07-2013, 03:46 PM   #102
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I ordered mine directly through the Sears parts website.
I am getting a fridgidaire but I am sure it is easy enough

 
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:45 PM   #103
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:09 PM   #104
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Electrichead,

Thanks for your post. Your build out looks beautiful. I really like the idea of adding hinges to the collar. I think this would make transferring full kegs easier to manage given the additional height of the collar. I have one question - you list #12 1/2" wood screws for the collar hinge. I know it's been a while but would you confirm this? #12 are fairly thick screws and I don't see them being made smaller than 3/4". #10 can be found 1/2" in length.

Thanks and cheers!

EDIT: The #10 1/2" screws worked great for attaching the hinges to the backside of the collar.

 
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:33 PM   #105
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Just got my Kenmore 8.8 (in black) last week...going to follow this build closely. Nice job!
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Old 06-10-2014, 12:08 PM   #106
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This thread looks to be somewhat old. I'm really hoping you are still available for a question or two. First and foremost... REally NICE! I have some questions if you wouldn't mind? I don't believe there are any pics depicting what seals the collar to the chest and how that was done? it looks like you went with a foam insulation that is attached to the bottom of the collar and is visible in the finished pictures. Is that right? Please help me understand this piece. My Kenmore 8.8 is on order and will be here soon. My intention is to pretty much mimic your build. Really really nice looking and much inspiration has been gained from reviewing this thread. Thanks very much for your time and efforts in putting it here. Do you find that the additional hinges on the rear of the collar are enough to keep all of the above in place? I was initially thinking of a 2x6 pine collar that would match the outside dimensions of the chest with the nicer perimeter (1x8s?) attached to that collar to sandwich and meld the collar to the chest. Please let me get your thoughts. I like your design better for a couple of reasons. The first being the added insulation attained without intrusion into the interior dimensions of the chest. The second reason being the additional 2" in height that is acquired. And I'll add a third. The ability to lift the entire deal on that added set of hinges is great. My only concern is the seal of the 1x8 sitting on the top of the chest. Any feedback on any or all of these points would be greatly appreciated. -M

 
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Old 12-03-2014, 02:32 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by electrichead View Post
The hinges are replacement stock from Sears. The lid can be lifted alone and the collar and lid can be lifted together. The hinges don't even seem to notice the extra weight.
First, super build! Simply beautiful...

Wondering why you chose to hinge both the collar and the top verses mounting the collar so it's stationary then hinging the top from the collar?

I could see lifting both and having to keep a hold of the top to keep it from flopping open.

Since you have done the double hinge set-up, has it been useful?

I can't think of what purpose it would serve? Not trying to be critical just trying to figure out if I need to copy you or not...

 
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Old 12-03-2014, 03:27 PM   #108
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Not OP, but I did the same some double configuration. It's very useful to be able to lift the collar and all when lifting a full keg in so you don't have to lift the 50 pounds that high, and helps for fishing it down through all the lines. But then for just reaching in and adjusting something, swapping a disconnect or just checking to make sure beer isn't leaking out of someplace, it's nice to just be able to open the freezer lid. You don't have to pull it away from the wall nearly as far and it isn't nearly as heavy, etc.

The hinges are pretty strong at holding the lid in the closed position so I don't really have a problem with the top lid flopping open when opening the bottom. Mine also ends up resting against some shelving above it though, so it may be more of an issue if it were a wide open area.

 
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Old 12-03-2014, 05:00 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by bitmask View Post
Not OP, but I did the same some double configuration. It's very useful to be able to lift the collar and all when lifting a full keg in so you don't have to lift the 50 pounds that high, and helps for fishing it down through all the lines. But then for just reaching in and adjusting something, swapping a disconnect or just checking to make sure beer isn't leaking out of someplace, it's nice to just be able to open the freezer lid. You don't have to pull it away from the wall nearly as far and it isn't nearly as heavy, etc.

The hinges are pretty strong at holding the lid in the closed position so I don't really have a problem with the top lid flopping open when opening the bottom. Mine also ends up resting against some shelving above it though, so it may be more of an issue if it were a wide open area.
Ok, that makes sense.

My engineering background says; more moving parts, more points of failure. I assume OP offset his taps over to one side in order to help keep lines out of the way when working inside the keezer. Even with that, you think it is still beneficial to have the double hinge set-up?

 
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Old 12-03-2014, 06:44 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbb3 View Post
Ok, that makes sense.

My engineering background says; more moving parts, more points of failure. I assume OP offset his taps over to one side in order to help keep lines out of the way when working inside the keezer. Even with that, you think it is still beneficial to have the double hinge set-up?
My collar ended up being either 10 or 12" high, so it has definitely been handy and I'm glad I have the second set. Lifting the kegs up and over isn't insurmountable, but even with the taps offset to one side there's an unruly amount of hose to get twisted and wrapped around everything. Granted, mine is hardly an example of clean hose placement and it could be partially avoided by taking the time to carefully route individual lines.

I'd definitely suggest not permanently fixing a large collar to the base though. There will be inevitable spills that require a good cleaning of the inside periodically, and trying to reach the bottom over the collar would be quite difficult without climbing in the thing entirely. I've sponged a couple gallons of beer that leaked out before, which sucks enough as-is.

However, having said that, when I ordered my hinges I ended up getting them both for around $20 total. When a friend was doing the same last year it cost him more like $45/EACH which would make me question the importance of using OEM replacement ones, at least. The stock hinges are truly beasts, which don't notice the weight of a collar at all. But it sure seems like you could use a cheaper home improvement store hinge for the top part of the lid (it's not that heavy). It may require clasps to hold it down when opening the bottom, but if I were trying to save money I'd keep the originals for the collar to base, and try for a cheaper solution for the top.

 
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