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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Equipment/Sanitation > Maltmill vs. Crank vs. BarleyCrusher
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Old 02-13-2007, 01:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby_M
I pulled the trigger on the Crankandstein CGM-2D. Great price and despite the week wait, I just wouldn't feel right without having to DIY some part of the mill like the hopper. It's the only way I can justify all these tools.
This is what comes next



Here's what you need to motorize your mill all from Grainger:

V Belt, Nominal Outside Length 44 Inches, Top Width 3/8 Inch, Belt 3L, 7/32 Inch Thick, Smooth DAYTON
3L440-G

Die Cast One Groove Sheave, OD 1 1/2 Inches, 3L Belt Pitch Diameter 1.05 Inches, 4L or A Belt Pitch Diameter 1.35 Inches, 1/2 Inch Bore Size CONGRESS
CA150 1-1/2A X 1/2

Die Cast One Groove Sheave, OD 10 Inches, 3L Belt Pitch Diameter 9.55 Inches, 4L or A Belt Pitch Diameter 9.85 Inches, 1/2 Inch Bore Size CONGRESS
CA1000 10A X 1/2

Belt Drive Motor, Split-Phase, Open Dripproof, 1/3 HP, 1725 RPM, Number of Speeds 1, 115 Volts, 6.6 Full Load Amps, 48Y NEMA Frame, Service Factor 1.35 DAYTON
6K778G
Adapter Bushing, 3/8 Inch ID x 1/2 Inch OD, 1 1/8 Inches Length, For Adapting 3/8 to 1/2 Inch Diameter Shaft DAYTON
6X452


This is what I used to make mine:

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Old 02-13-2007, 01:36 PM   #12
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I think I'm going to hold out for a dumpster dive motor find. Maybe the drive motor from a cloths dryer would work. There are a ton of spent appliances at the local recycling center but I wonder how they'd feel about me pulling in with my tools to remove parts. The most I've gotten away with is pulling some nice looking steel angle out of the metal bin.
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Old 02-13-2007, 07:14 PM   #13
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I have a MaltMill with the gear drive option. The gear drive option allows the crank to drive both rollers. I makes a really nice crush. Adjusting the rollers is easy. You loosen the set screw and then turn the thumbwheel to set the gap and then tighten the set screw. No tools required.
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Old 02-13-2007, 09:43 PM   #14
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I found my motor at a flea market and I think it came out of a furnace ( not sure but he had a bunch of that kind of stuff.)
Looked like new and cost just $7.50 I bought an extension cord and wired it to a handy box with a switch. works great.
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Old 02-16-2007, 02:27 PM   #15
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Couple questions...

First, do you all fill your hopper and then start the mill or do you dump the grain in as the mill is spinning? I'm trying to picture what would happen if the grain started filling up the area above the rollers prior to spinning them up. It sounds like a two-person operation if you use a hand drill.

Where is the cheapest place to buy pulleys for motorizing?
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Old 02-16-2007, 02:55 PM   #16
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I fill my hopper and then throw the switch. See above post for pulley's from Grainger.
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Old 02-17-2007, 01:43 PM   #17
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With my Crankandstein I found I get a much better crush with slower rpms but I too fill up the hopper then give it the juice.
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Old 02-19-2008, 04:54 PM   #18
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I have only ever owned the Barley Crusher and it has been fantastic. Worked right out of the box perfectly but then again, I am sure all of these mills are great.
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Old 02-19-2008, 05:10 PM   #19
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I fill my hopper and then pull the trigger. I have never filled higher than about 2/3's of the way up though...
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Old 02-19-2008, 06:30 PM   #20
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Woah, looks like the new guy found a year old thread ;-)
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