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Old 01-09-2011, 03:40 AM   #1
HossTheGreat
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So, I'm thinking about converting from propane to electric and need some help. I currently use a converted half barrel sanke and do BIAB. What I'd like to do is have a single 240v element. Since I BIAB, I'll be doing my mash as well as my boil with the same element. I've been reading up a bit and would like to do a simple control panel with a single PID/SSR so that I can control my mash temps and then switch to a manual mode for the boil. I'm just a little confused about how to wire up the control panel. I know it's probably really simple, and but I just need some help with a wiring diagram. I'm thinking about using a 30A GFCI breaker from my main panel to feed the control panel....I just need a little assistance with how to wire up the control panel. If anyone has any input, I'd greatly appreciate it.



 
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:59 PM   #2
HossTheGreat
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Upon some further reading, it appears that many recommend the use of a second SSR in the event that one should fail. I found another post where someone posted a wiring diagram that I believe covers what I'm trying to accomplish. Any thoughts on whether or not this will be suitable? The only other thing that I'd like to add would be a switch to kill the power to the entire panel if needed.




 
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:26 PM   #3
samc
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I'm not an electrician, but it looks like that diagram is showing using an SSR for each leg of the 240 v circuit, not as a back up device.

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Old 01-09-2011, 08:59 PM   #4
HossTheGreat
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I don't believe that it's being used as a back up in the sense you're thinking of. From what I understand, if an SSR fails, it generally fails in an "ON" state. If only one SSR is used, there is the possibility of having the element full ON in the event of an SSR failure. It would be unlikely that both would fail at the same time, so many people are recommending using one SSR for each leg.

 
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Old 01-10-2011, 05:46 PM   #5
HossTheGreat
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On second thought, would it be better to go with a single SSR and put at 30A switch in between the PID and the SSR? That way I know for certain that the power is completely shut off to the element.

 
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:13 PM   #6
wyzazz
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By using 2 SSR's or even a Dual SSR you can switch both hot legs at the same time, ensuring that when you turn off the PID your element has no electricity running through it. I'd also put a 30A DPST switch in between the element and both hot legs so you can kill the power to the element whenever you want and keep your PID running to monitor temperatures. Just my $.02.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:16 PM   #7
HossTheGreat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyzazz View Post
By using 2 SSR's or even a Dual SSR you can switch both hot legs at the same time, ensuring that when you turn off the PID your element has no electricity running through it. I'd also put a 30A DPST switch in between the element and both hot legs so you can kill the power to the element whenever you want and keep your PID running to monitor temperatures. Just my $.02.
Sounds like a plan. Thanks for the input.

 
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:39 PM   #8
HossTheGreat
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Just thought of one more thing. Since I can buy a spa panel with a 50A GFCI breaker from Home Depot cheaper than a single 30A GFCI breaker, I was planning on feeding the spa panel from a 30A non-GFCI breaker using 10 guage wire from my main panel. If I understand correctly, the 30A breaker in the main panel would offer protection for overcurrent, while the 50A breaker in the spa panel would offer GFCI protection. Just want to make sure there is acceptable.

 
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:42 PM   #9
wyzazz
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Yep, that'll work!

OR you could pick up a GFCI cord, probably more expensive but it makes your rig somewhat portable.
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:43 AM   #10
Dgonza9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyzazz View Post
By using 2 SSR's or even a Dual SSR you can switch both hot legs at the same time, ensuring that when you turn off the PID your element has no electricity running through it. I'd also put a 30A DPST switch in between the element and both hot legs so you can kill the power to the element whenever you want and keep your PID running to monitor temperatures. Just my $.02.
This is a good idea. I didn't go this route and now I'm thinking I might change it. It just seems like it'd be nice to switch the element off without having to unplug from my control panel.


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