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Old 12-18-2010, 12:16 AM   #11
Randar
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honestly, even if it gets it to 145 or 150 I will be thrilled. Cut some time out of my HLT warm-up and save propane for later batches. I usually have mine set at 115 so this would definitely save me time and propane.

 
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Old 12-18-2010, 12:16 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samc View Post
1. do you filter the water going into the heater? you might want to do that.

2. is your garage valve going to cut off the supply to the rest of the house? it should or someone might have a nasty shower surprise.
Number 2 is a fantastic idea. I'll install a valve that cuts the house when I crank up the heat.

I'm not so sure that #1 is too much of an issue for me.

 
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Old 12-18-2010, 12:52 AM   #13
Randar
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Ok, so I checked it just now. I got 178 degrees out of the faucet and I didn't have to do anything to mine to get it into "overdrive".

But I would definitely not turn it that high if there was the threat of other folks in the house using it, 180 degrees is f'in HOT.

The way mine was installed I can actually throw a diverting valve and they open the port directly coming out of the heater, so I think that's what I will end up doing when I kick it into overdrive. Then I have to manually throw it back to bypass to feed back into the main plumbing system so I won't accidentally leave it on 180. You might ask you plumber to ensure there is such a bypass or a shut-off to the rest of the house for the times when you use this mode?

 
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:47 AM   #14
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gig..giggidy..giggidy... gig..g

I heard of a production brewery who uses two in series to get the temps and flow that they need. Can't remember where I saw that.

Useless information.

 
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Old 12-18-2010, 12:34 PM   #15
crash1292
 
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you can install a tempering valve in the line going to the rest of the house set it for 120 deg or so and leave the heater cranked up for brewing....simmons is a brand that I have installed in hospitals and nursing homes

 
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SankePankey View Post
gig..giggidy..giggidy... gig..g

I heard of a production brewery who uses two in series to get the temps and flow that they need. Can't remember where I saw that.

Useless information.
Aurora CO's Dry Dock (2009 GABF Small Brewing Company of the Year winner) had this on their old system. Made Big Brew Days easy as they just ran a hose off it out back for all the homebrewers to use. Just set the desired strike temp and fill the MLT.

 
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Old 12-18-2010, 06:16 PM   #17
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I had the same thought as I have a guy coming on Tuesday to install a tankless at my place. However, my hang up is how to filter. Here's the problem that I see. Adding a filter on the inlet would pretty much mean having a whole house filter which is expensive and pretty much useless for me since my water is really low in minerals. However, all the filters I have seen for hot water are sediment only. This means I would need a bypass valve on the cold water side that would re-direct through a filter when brewing along with the hot water bypass to the garage. I do not know if it is worth the cost. Any thoughts as far as that goes?

 
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:04 PM   #18
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I use mine to brew but it only gets up to 140*. I have an outlet right off the heater and it doesn't get me to mash temps but really shortens the amount of propane/time that I need to get it up to temp.

 
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:40 PM   #19
Randar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bensiff View Post
Adding a filter on the inlet would pretty much mean having a whole house filter which is expensive and pretty much useless for me since my water is really low in minerals.
Then what are you trying to filter out? Do you have a water analysis?

 
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Old 12-22-2010, 07:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randar View Post
Then what are you trying to filter out? Do you have a water analysis?
Chlorine/chloramine (off top of my head I can't recall which they use)

 
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