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Old 04-21-2012, 12:12 PM   #81
jtkratzer
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I'm also using the Brewer's Hardware housings with full ferrules. I want them welded as close as possible and will remove any excess from the inside of the keg. Even if there isn't any sticking through, it will be fine. Just need to weld them above the line where the false bottom sits to prevent creating a route for stuff to bypass it.

I had to use straight elements as the curvy ones wouldn't pass through the housing.
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:11 PM   #82
sethhobrin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtkratzer View Post
I'm also using the Brewer's Hardware housings with full ferrules. I want them welded as close as possible and will remove any excess from the inside of the keg. Even if there isn't any sticking through, it will be fine. Just need to weld them above the line where the false bottom sits to prevent creating a route for stuff to bypass it.

I had to use straight elements as the curvy ones wouldn't pass through the housing.
Sweet! When are you getting that welded in?

 
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:40 PM   #83
jtkratzer
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Sweet! When are you getting that welded in?
I gotta figure out getting the 1.5" hole in the side of the kegs for the two ferrules. I was at Lowe's and Home Depot for stuff today an neither had step bits or anything that would work on these kegs that size.

 
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:55 PM   #84
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Here's mine:
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:02 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtkratzer View Post
I gotta figure out getting the 1.5" hole in the side of the kegs for the two ferrules.
I have the perfect hole/punch saw for this if you want it. It is a 1 3/8" carbide tipped hole cutter. It is perfect for the ferrules. Just pay $15 which should cover shipping.
PM me.

 
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:27 PM   #86
msh227
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Here is my kettle, two 1500W 120V elements fed from separate breakers in my panel. My ground wire is fastened to the screw for the electrical box, I did a continuity check to ensure I have a good ground.

Later down the road I believe I am going to tear it apart and weld the stainless locknut to the kettle. I also need to make a quick disconnect at the element's electrical boxes since I don't use a pump and typically batch sparge makes it hard to lift kettle to pour. The cords get hung up on things.







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Old 04-22-2012, 02:55 PM   #87
jtkratzer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky
Here's mine:
How'd you get the curved elements to fit? The 5500W 240V elements I had from Ron's Home and Hardware didn't fit through. I'm wondering if I tried with the ferrule clamped on and didn't take it off...oh well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparky

I have the perfect hole/punch saw for this if you want it. It is a 1 3/8" carbide tipped hole cutter. It is perfect for the ferrules. Just pay $15 which should cover shipping.
PM me.
1 3/8 hole cutter makes a hole big enough for a 1.5" ferrule? I put a caliper on the ferrule and it's definitely bigger than 1.375".

 
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Old 04-22-2012, 11:51 PM   #88
Tempest2k8
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Apr 2011
Stow, OH
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Originally Posted by kevin509 View Post
Just finished my element covers/boxes. 2" TC X 1" NPS element plate from Hillbilly Stills soldered through 14ga stainless plate which in turn is bolted to water-tight box. Provides grounding point and covers element wiring inside the box. Cable strain relief on the side for my 10/3 cords and that's it.

Have to say, even it's going slow, the build is really fun.

Thanks to many from the forum for continuing inspiration.
Where did you find the box & strain relief? I have the same adapter from Hillbilly Stills.

Thanks,
Chris

 
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Old 04-23-2012, 05:47 PM   #89
kevin509
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Nov 2011
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I found the boxes on eBay but he has sold them all now. Usually a little searching with different keywords will result in finding something. There are alot of 4x4 junction boxes that will work too.

 
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:46 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtkratzer View Post
How'd you get the curved elements to fit? The 5500W 240V elements I had from Ron's Home and Hardware didn't fit through. I'm wondering if I tried with the ferrule clamped on and didn't take it off...oh well.



1 3/8 hole cutter makes a hole big enough for a 1.5" ferrule? I put a caliper on the ferrule and it's definitely bigger than 1.375".
I had to bend (straighten out) the curved element. If you take your time, it will bend any shape you want. However, I think it is best to go with a straight one if you have the option.

The 1 3/8" hole cutter is perfect for the 1.5" ferrule. Since it cuts less, it lets the 1.5" ferrule site on the kettle, not inside it. It is flush with the kettle. Measure the inside diameter of the ferrule and it should show that the 1 3/8" cutter works best.

 
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