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Old 02-10-2013, 02:58 AM   #171
Sep 2011
Posts: 59
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Originally Posted by Rivenin
Did this on the first set.
i can't remember the exact part names but, i I'm fairly positive it was a 1 1/2" to 1" reducer coupling. 1" extension and a 1" cap.

version 2 is (you can see them on the left... duh)

a 1 1/2" threaded reducer and a 1" threaded cap... a ton simpler.

both were epoxied to the reducers and have silicone on the inside.
Please clarify, Rivenin - you epoxied the element to the 1 1/2" reducer, wired, filled it with silicon, then screwed on the cap? How is the element grounded?

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Old 02-10-2013, 03:15 AM   #172
Dec 2010
McMinnville, Oregon
Posts: 3,272
Liked 332 Times on 257 Posts

Basically, yes.

if you look at both the sets of elements, you can see the ground wires coming out of the reducers which are bolted to the keggles.

i don't have a close up picture (i'm at work) on me. But here are 2 pics that may help see where the ground bolts to. Which is directly under the ball valve.

and here are the elements with the ground wires coming out. i basically just drilled a tiny hole, pulled the wire through and siliconed behind it.

Hope that helps!
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:32 AM   #173
Jan 2012
chicago, IL
Posts: 66
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I potted my elements in deep one gang junction boxes and put the element through the face plate side of the box. I used Powercon connectors to connect the elements to my control panel and they fit almost perfectly through the hole already in the box.

Here is the profile shot. I first though these would be too big as I originally had them in extension boxes, but barely have noticed them so far. I switched from the extension to the deep boxes to be able to use the Powercon connectors.

I posted most of my build here if you have any questions.

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Old 02-23-2013, 05:11 PM   #174
Sep 2012
Posts: 4

I finally did the upgrade to my RIMS controller.
The switch underneath the PID is the power switch for the controller and the switch on the right controls my pump.

Click image for larger version

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The large round plug in the back is for the element cord and the normal black receptacle is for my pump. The small round is for the pt100 temp sensor.
Click image for larger version

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You can see the input to the RIMS tube and I between there and the pump is my temp sensor and connector.
Click image for larger version

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Here is a pic of the inner workings of my control box. Feel free to ask ?'s if you like.
Click image for larger version

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Old 02-27-2013, 03:20 AM   #175
Mar 2012
Chattanooga, TN, USA
Posts: 158
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts

Originally Posted by bonsai4tim View Post

this is my electrical connection---1 inch stainless lock nut on the inset of the keggle, holding element (+gasket).

The rubber housing is a 1 1/2 inch plumbing connection, clamped on with the hose clamps. The ground wire is just visable, clamped across the element nut.

The power cord goes through a drilled PVC cap that clamps down on it when the hose clamp is tight.

Can you give some details about the 1.5 inch rubber plumbing connection, like can you get it at Home Depot etc. Did you just clamp it to the hex part of the element and is it watertight if you did?
This looks like a great and simple way to connect.

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Old 03-01-2013, 08:22 PM   #176
Aug 2012
Posts: 53
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Originally Posted by runs4beer View Post
Still good here, not sure but I guess I've brewed 8-10 batches now and am still happy with them, they make breakdown really easy.

I just rebuilt my BK's element housing so I should post some images of it. The j-box was a little difficult to remove and clean every time so I made a supper simple PVC housing with a switchcraft plug on the end.

You might want to give thisa read too.

I like you TCQ quote
I would love to see pics of how you did your new element connection. How did you handle the ground wire without the metal box ? Thanks.

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Old 03-02-2013, 02:12 AM   #177
Feb 2010
Posts: 389
Liked 15 Times on 11 Posts

Sorry, I had a flood in my basement and put everything from my kids play room in my brew room so I haven't been able to get pic of it.
But I'll try to explain; I drill a small hole in the metal part on the element on the backside of the part that the o-ring go on. I put the end of the ground wire in the hole I drilled and flooded it with soldier. Do you follow?
I test the continuity and it solid. I hope to get 400 square feet of tile down over yhe weekend and if i do I can pull all the toy out of my brewery and try to get some shots of it.
Never listen to electric guitar.
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:13 AM   #178
Jul 2012
Seattle, Washington
Posts: 2,104
Liked 183 Times on 158 Posts

Here's mine...
I built two... one for the MLT, and one for the HLT.
2x2 SS box tubing and some .110 thick SS plate.
Got the aluminum strain relief for the cord from Grainger.
I measured the compressed thickness of the gasket, and just happen to have some SS plate the exact right thickness.
I bored the plate so that the gasket is held in the bore, and so when the element is screwed in tight, the gasket is compressed making everything leak proof, and the plate just barely moves.
Torqued the element just a little more until the plate didn't move anymore.
The ground is screwed to the housing, and although it's tight, the wires don't touch anything when assembled.
I think I'll add gaskets with drip slots at the outer plate to weep any moisture out.

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Old 03-02-2013, 12:48 PM   #179
Aug 2009
Atwater, OH
Posts: 4,317
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Wow, very nice acidrain!
Originally Posted by Revvy View Post
And I'd like to see my 1.080 beers ready from grain to glass in a week, and served to me by red-headed twin penthouse pets wearing garter belts and fishnet stockings, with Irish accents, calling me "master luv gun," but we can't always get what we want can we? :)

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Old 03-02-2013, 09:00 PM   #180
Mar 2012
Chattanooga, TN, USA
Posts: 158
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts

That is what I would do if I could.

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