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Old 12-15-2010, 11:37 PM   #1
emacgee
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Default Simcoe/Amarillo IPA critique

Putting together a Simcoe Amarillo IPA recipe and wanted some feedback about any aspect of the recipe

I'm aiming for a dry and clean IPA with enough malt character to support the hops but by no means interfere with their expression. Hoping to get a smooth mild to medium hop bitterness and a very pungent aromatic profile.

Grain Bill:
10.5 lb 2 Row
.75 lb Vienna
.50 lb White Wheat

Mash @ 150-152F to promote fermentability. 1.3 qt:1 lb water to grain ratio, 3.82 gal mash water and 4.04 gal sparge water.

Hop Schedule: (Not sure of the AA% of the hops I'll be using yet)
~25 AAU Simcoe @ 20 min
~12 AAU Amarillo @ 10 min
~10 AAU Simcoe @ 10 min
~7 AAU Amarillo @ 5 min
~6 AAU Simcoe @ 5 min
1 oz of Simcoe and Amarillo at KO

Shooting for about 60 IBU

Will be splitting this batch in two and fermenting equal volumes with separate yeasts (WLP 001 vs. WLP 008) to compare the results. Hoping to ferment at 65-68. Dry hopping at 1:1 ratio Simcoe and Amarillo with probably .5 oz of each per 3 gal carboy or 10 days. What size starter should I shoot for with two 2.5 gal batches?

Any input appeciated


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Old 12-16-2010, 03:21 AM   #2
strat_thru_marshall
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No 60 minute addition? Are you sure you'll be getting enough IBU's from your late additions?

It seems like with a 2.5 gallon batch this size you could get away with pitching 1 vial directly into each with no starter.


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Old 12-16-2010, 03:39 AM   #3
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I'd mash a little higher because there is no crystal malt in the grain bill.

One vial will work if it's fresh and healthy. I don't ever get liquid yeast in very good condition so I'd recommend a small starter.
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:54 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strat_thru_marshall View Post
No 60 minute addition? Are you sure you'll be getting enough IBU's from your late additions?

It seems like with a 2.5 gallon batch this size you could get away with pitching 1 vial directly into each with no starter.


Beersmith has me quoted at 60 IBU's using this method. In any case I"d rather hit low than high and adjust the next go around.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:14 AM   #5
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I like the project. Subscribed.

My Simcoe Smash had alot of late additions and only 1 oz dry hop for 5 gal. The finish was grassy. There are some good comments in that thread on how that might be remedied.

I like a dry finish also so some of the things I plan on changing with my next attempt would be what I would offer here:

I think the proper bittering hops at 60 min, like Magnum, might help with the dry finish. Since the Magnum is high AA, a little goes a long way and it is fairly neutral in flavor. A touch of Amber malt is frequently suggested to help add to the dryness of the finish.
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conroe View Post
I'd mash a little higher because there is no crystal malt in the grain bill.
The very first AG I did was a very simple recipe using just 2-row base and some Crystal 40. I mashed around 149 and it was VERY dry and thin. The hop bitterness was very prominent and the malt characteristics failed to balance it. The next time I brewed a PA, I added some Munich (7%) and Victory (5%) to increase body and mouthfeel. If you want it that dry, stick w/ your plan. If you want a more balanced beer raise your mash temps as suggested above--maybe even to 152-154 range. This produces more unfermentable dextrins. However, your lack of bittering addition may work well with the lower mash temps.

Personally I would add some 60 min bittering hops and raise my mash temps a little.

Let us know how it goes & Good luck
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:05 AM   #7
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Should I increase the proportion of my specialty grains a bit to help add some character?

Will probably raise my mash temp two degrees as well
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:34 AM   #8
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Try it as is, its the only way to figure out what different things such as specialty grains and mash temps will do. Just don't change too many things in one brew or you won't be able to pinpoint what did what. Even if what you get is not ideal, it will still be good...I called mine a High Desert Dry Pale Ale and drank the hell out of it!!!

The Vienna is a character malt like Munich and Victory and in a good proportion. The wheat will help with head retention though it will also increase cloudiness. CaraPils or CaraFoam will do the same thing w/ less haze. If you stick w/ your hops schedule I think 152 will be just fine.
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Old 12-16-2010, 07:23 AM   #9
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I'd mash a little higher, use a lower attenuating yeast or add in some crystal or other specialty malts if you want to keep some malt character. With all base malt you should end up pretty dry as is, but thats not necessarily a bad thing in an IPA.
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Old 12-16-2010, 08:44 AM   #10
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I'm a big fan of hopbursting, but I'd still add a pinch of hops at the start of the boil. They do other things besides add bitterness, such as aid in protein seperation during the hot break.


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