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Old 02-14-2012, 05:53 PM   #641
ThatGuyRyan
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Anyone else have leg studs that are slightly mis-aligned? One of my legs will not go on straight no matter what I do. It is off at roughly 10 to 15 degree angle.



The slots on mine have plenty of play to align them when the nuts are loose and I assume they use a jig to weld them but I am just guessing that is how they weld them on. Can you possibly drill out the slots on the leg with the issue to give it more play?
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:13 PM   #642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatGuyRyan

The slots on mine have plenty of play to align them when the nuts are loose and I assume they use a jig to weld them but I am just guessing that is how they weld them on. Can you possibly drill out the slots on the leg with the issue to give it more play?
I thought about that, I am going to see if I can get them straight as soon as it is empty.
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:59 PM   #643
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There are times when the heat that is created when welding them that throws the out of align. We usually correct that, but we must have missed that one.

My suggestion would be to CAREFULLY see if you can tap it more in line (that is what we do)...it may be helpful to apply a bit of low heat, if you have access.

 
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:56 AM   #644
EBloom97
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Originally Posted by EBloom97 View Post
Yep, it works. The gauge only goes up to 15 PSI though. Took me a while to actually get around to testing it on the fermenter because I keep the brewhemoth at my friend's house with all my BIG equipment.

http://s700.photobucket.com/albums/w...0445876201.jpg
http://s700.photobucket.com/albums/w...0445845023.jpg

That's a 1" triclover tee (http://www.brewershardware.com/1-Tri...e-TC10TEE.html) that is attached to a to a 1" triclover to 1/4" female threaded fitting adapter (http://www.brewershardware.com/1.5-T...T-Fitting.html) that is attached to the pressure relief valve I bought in January.

 
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:35 PM   #645
Lennie
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A friend and I brewed another batch for the Brewhemoth yesterday, an IPA finished with Zythos hop blend. He brought over his keggle and we boiled 2/3 of the batch in that. I enjoy brewing large batches once in awhile, its a stark contrast to my usual 3gal.

The wort is in the fermentor now, I'm doing pressurized fermentation again since that worked great the first time around.

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Old 04-05-2012, 07:00 PM   #646
tante
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got my tri-clover brewhemoth a few weeks ago and now going to buy all of the valves and things that I need. I do have a few questions so I hope that you guys can help me out.

I think I can get almost everything from brewers hardware:

1 - is the racking port necessary? do I need a valve here or should I just cap it off?
2 - I want to put in a thermowell at the 1" opening on the top. I guess I don't really understand how a termowell works. Do I need to fill it with liquid and put in a temperature sensor (like in a kegerator) and then plug that into a love controller? I guess I don't fully understand how this part works
3 - I would like to get a CIP spray ball, am I correct in assuming that the 4 inch opening at the top is the only place this will work?

 
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:35 PM   #647
Lennie
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1. Its not absolutely necessary but I think it is nice to be able to rack off the side of the conical instead of the very bottom, so I'd get that valve if you can afford it. It keeps you away from much (though not all) of the yeast/trub. I generally dump yeast, then let things settle a few hours, then rack. There'll be a little yeast in the port but its mostly gone after the first few seconds.

2. If you're going to control temp in a fermentation fridge, then you simply slide the thermocouple of the controller (Love or Johnson) down the tube, no need to fill with liquid. The thermowell is submerged in the beer so you get a decent temp reading. YOu need a very long thermowell to go from the 1" port on top though. Something like 24".

3. I think so, I don't think the small plastic CIP ball would fit through the 1" port. I have a 2" ball, I just sit it in the 4" opening and cover that with a towel while I run it (its a hard plastic pipe setup). I'd probably recommend the 1" ball from McMaster Carr over the 2" ball at Brewershardware. The larger ball takes a big pump to push enough water to get a vigorous spray. If you want the 2". let me know and I'll tell you what pump you need. A March pump isn't enough, you need a larger sump pump type unit.

Congrats on the Brewhemoth, hope you like it as much as I do!

 
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Old 04-05-2012, 11:07 PM   #648
tante
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Lennie,

thanks for the response.

1 - why wouldn't you just dump the trub and yeast before you rack from the bottom?

2 - will the probe get a good reading if it is not in liquid? I don't have a fermentation chamber built yet, but still want to monitor the temp at which I am fermenting, is there is something else I can hook up the probe to beside a temp controller?

3 - thank you, great information that I didn't know. I was planning on just buying a sump pump for the cleaning.

one other question, I am going to get a butterfly valve(s) would I then go to a 1/2 inch hose barb?

 
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:45 PM   #649
Lennie
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1. I think some yeast gets hung up on the walls of the conical section doesn't all just accumulate right on the bottom, so you wouldn't be able to dump and rack as cleanly as racking off the side of the conical section. Periodically thumping the conical with a rubber mallet would most likely help to knock the hung-up trub on down to the bottom, and dumping the day before racking is also probably a good idea as far as getting the cleanest beeer off.

2. The thermowell has to be touching the wort, the probe will naturally touch the thermowell and that contact will be adequate to get a good reading. If you don't use a controller you an still buy a digital thermometer with a probe (used for cooking) but really the simple way to ge a temp is to use a stick-on fermometer low enough on the fermentor to be where the liquid is.

3. Heres a link to the kind fo pump you'll want to push brewershardware's 2" CIP ball. I bought the 1.5HP version and it actually pushes too fast, it outpaces the draining even with both the dump and racking port valves open. Its no big deal, it still works. I linked a 1HP unit, that or a 1.25HP ought to be about right. You just need enough push to keep that ball spinning. I'd tried a smaller DC pump that pushed 50psi but it was on a 1/2" line and this wasn't enough water for the large diameter ball.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Rand-1-h...#ht_1564wt_907

 
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Old 04-08-2012, 02:19 PM   #650
tante
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how are you guys transfering into a ball lock corny. All the ball lock disconnects are 1/4 inch barbed but the tri-clover hose barb is 1/2 inch.

 
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