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Old 02-24-2011, 11:30 AM   #231
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The Brewhemouth functions equally well on 5 gallon batches. I have run 9 batches through since January. As far as cleaning, that is easy simply use oxyclean and let it sit half a day, rinse and fill with starsan. Done.


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Old 02-24-2011, 04:53 PM   #232
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The Brewhemouth functions equally well on 5 gallon batches. I have run 9 batches through since January. As far as cleaning, that is easy simply use oxyclean and let it sit half a day, rinse and fill with starsan. Done.
Couldn't have said it better myself!

Josh


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Old 02-25-2011, 06:52 AM   #233
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I doubt that I will blow 22G of starsan to make one batch....

Because the racking port slopes down a bit, I'm assuming you get a bit of trub/yeast buildup there. Does this mean that one should take a sample before filling kegs? I've only even taken samples when I dump yeast from the bottom port (from my ex-blarchmanns).
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:32 AM   #234
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My new brewhemoth. Looks really nice.



Have a 1 and 1.5'' trigger valve on there - Pt cured silicone for the tc gaskets. I realize now that I only really needed one barbed adapter, as I'd never need two at the same time. Also, I'd probably never even use the one for the bottom dump anyway - could dump right into an erlenmeyer.



This is the custom bit I had them do - a 1'' tc for a thermowell. The thermowell has a 1/2''fpt hole, but would have been fine with no threads. Could have just stuffed some gauze around the RTD, but figured what the hell and put in a 1/2 - 1/8 npt adapter in there, seeing as the RTD already had npt threads. The thermowell would have had to be pretty wide to fit the hex head on the RTD from above, so I thought I'd have this side port put in. It's offset so the whole thing will fit in a smaller ferm box (how I plan to control temps). It's a 3wire RTD that I've been using for years on some blichmanns.

The only mods I need to do myself is fit a flare on a 1.5'' endcap for pressure transfers. I have to tap a 1/4 thread in a spare endcap to fit the flare adapter I have. Also I need to get a sump pump and find some way to rig my 3/4'' fpt rotating spray ball on the inside for CIP.



Some of the bits I need to deal with. The spray ball won't fit through a 1'' opening, so it will have to go on a 4''. To save buying another 4'' blanking plate, I could have it mounted on this plate, and having a cap to seal the inlet during fermentation. Don't have a TIG at the moment, so will have to Ag braze or thread something. Open to any suggestions. I'm guessing I'll never need that blowoff barb I bought. Planning on 16-17G ferments so I get 15 total in kegs. The smaller barb will just have some tubing running into a cup with sanitizer as an airlock. Been doing that for years and it works great. Just have to be careful not sucking up sanitized fruit flies when doing cooldowns after the ferm is done.



Gotta say, this is one of the slicker looking homebrew conicals I've seen. Pressurized ferments should be a breeze with a few more components. For the first brew I am thinking an ofest-dortmunder hybrid that I've brewed before and really like. Brewhemoth guys did a great job I think. The inner top weld has some discoloration, but it is a lot smoother than the earlier photos posted.
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Old 03-07-2011, 09:33 PM   #235
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Brewhemoth guys did a great job I think. The inner top weld has some discoloration, but it is a lot smoother than the earlier photos posted.
I agree, I think mine is great quality as well. I also noticed a bit of discoloration around the top weld and when I wiped it with a towel some red substance transferred on to the towel. It doesn't look like rust but the dome was a bit dirty on the inside, so it could just be a soot byproduct of the weld. I'd be interested to hear if you have the same soot on the inside of yours as well and the red discoloration at the weld. Its not going to keep me from using it, just curious what it is. Also, the most liquid I could fit in mine is about 20.5 gallons, so you might want to measure first before you fill it if you are going to be close on volume.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:21 PM   #236
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This is how they came. Planning on cleaning with PBW and then taking another look. It's possible the bead area might need to have some acid treatment so they passivate properly in air. Might do some polishing with 2, 4, or 600 grit. Looks like a pretty smooth bead.



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Old 03-07-2011, 10:34 PM   #237
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That is how mine looks as well... guess its nothing to worry about after a thorough cleaning.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:10 PM   #238
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Default Cooling the Behemoth

I know most of you will be placing these in old friges etc. curious if anyone is going to use the internal cooling, I bought two of these myself, and just ordered 1 set of the cooling coils to try it out. I also plan to insulate with
1/2" Armaflex and then a thin stainless sheet with latches for removal if needed. I think i will just try a pond pump and ice chest with ice water at first since most my beers are done in the first week anyway, at least until the heat gets here which is only a month or so away. Anyone tried the cooling coils yet?
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:34 PM   #239
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Got a few reasons I don't want to use internal cooling.

I want to be able to bring the beer down to about 0C with the same system that controls fermentation temps. Those stainless coils probably can't do that.

The conical, on it's own, will absorb a lot of heat through the walls. To counteract this, you could put the internally cooled conical in an insulated box. At this point, you might as well cool the box.

I'm thinking of making my box out of 2-4'' polyurethane panels. Used styrofoam before - worked ok - polyurethane is much better. I just used foil tape to make the seals and the door hinge. Not very robust or durable. I think I'll frame it with high density fiberboard this time.
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:09 AM   #240
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I agree these welds look better than the photos posted earlier. Maybe I will order two of these afterall...


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