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Old 12-14-2010, 09:49 PM   #21
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If I understand your description of your current wiring, you have two separate wires coming from the terminal side of the pump relays, which separately are connected to the pump receptacles and the light. These are both then connected to neutral. If this is the case then you should be fine with your current wiring. The pump will draw 1.3A or so through its wire, and the light will draw 0.005A through its wire. For example, the illuminated PB's on my panel are all wired directly to the 1A breaker. They're the PB version of the switch you're talking about. The light will only draw as much current as is needed to illuminate it, just like the pump will. Keep in mind that while voltage will be equal across all loads connected in parallel and equal to zero around any loop, current will not be. As long as the light and pump are connected in parallel, your design will work.


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Old 12-14-2010, 11:54 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trigger View Post
If I understand your description of your current wiring, you have two separate wires coming from the terminal side of the pump relays, which separately are connected to the pump receptacles and the light. These are both then connected to neutral. If this is the case then you should be fine with your current wiring. The pump will draw 1.3A or so through its wire, and the light will draw 0.005A through its wire. For example, the illuminated PB's on my panel are all wired directly to the 1A breaker. They're the PB version of the switch you're talking about. The light will only draw as much current as is needed to illuminate it, just like the pump will. Keep in mind that while voltage will be equal across all loads connected in parallel and equal to zero around any loop, current will not be. As long as the light and pump are connected in parallel, your design will work.
What about my elements? Will the LED handle 10A and 15A coming in without causing problems?

And I actually have 1 wire coming out of the terminal side of the relay that I pigtailed into 2 wires, one that runs to the recep one runs to the light.


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Old 12-15-2010, 12:20 AM   #23
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What about my elements? Will the LED handle 10A and 15A coming in without causing problems?

And I actually have 1 wire coming out of the terminal side of the relay that I pigtailed into 2 wires, one that runs to the recep one runs to the light.
If you look at my diagrams, I think you'll see that is exactly what I did.

As said earlier, just because you have a fuse in line, that does not mean that amount of current is "coming out". The device it is powering will "draw" current. Your scenario is like plugging a toaster into one outlet on a receptacle and a night lite in the other. They each "draw" the current required.

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Old 12-15-2010, 12:43 AM   #24
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Thanks Ed! For some reason I had in my head the max you could bring to the switches was 10A. Makes my life MUCH easier.
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:20 AM   #25
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man it looks awesome, when can we see the rest of the build?
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:53 PM   #26
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man it looks awesome, when can we see the rest of the build?
With any luck I'll be moving the stand and the kegs from the garage to my basement brew cave this weekend.

The keggles have all been soldered up and leak tested. I've "polished" the MLT keggle and the dedicated HEX tank. I say polished because I just used the maroon pad to clean them up and give that swirl pattern you see on my panel. Oh yeah, the MLT has been wrapped in refletix(SP?) as well. I still have to install the coil in the HLT that I'll use for chilling the wort. This has been a bigger challenge than I thought because the output is below the level of the element so I'll have to figure out the best way to bend the copper down to the port without making it look like poo.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:46 AM   #27
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well sh*t.............................

I got everything wired up finally and tried to fire her up but she doesn't feel like playing nice

Good news is I didn't let the smoke out!!!

There's a problem with how I have my contactor/estop relay wired I think. When I press my start button I get nothing, but when I hit the button on the contactor I get momentary power and the breaker on the spa panel trips.

I checked the ice cube relay and I only have power to 1 terminal (terminal 8), that's the one that is connected to the 2A breaker. I have no power going to my start button or estop button so I'm sure I wired something wrong on the ice cube relay and contactor.

Ohio-Ed can you chime in here? I wired as you described in the PM I sent you.



Any ideas where to start on trouble shooting ?? I have a multi meter.

EDIT:::::::: There's something going on with the 12V power supply. I checked to make sure it was in the 110V position and not the 220V and that's fine. I took the 12V+ and 12V- leads to brewtroller off and it's still the culprit on tripping the breaker. I still have issues with the wiring on the estop though because I can't get the relay and the contactor to latch even with the breaker for the 12V supply off.


I'm slightly baffled because I first unhooked the wires for the 12+ and 12- and had the same problem, ok so it's not brewtroller. Then I took all the wires off and wired directly to a plug leading to a GFCI outlet, no problems there either. If I leave the breaker for the 12V supply OFF in my panel the spa GFCI doesn't trip. I've checked all connections to make sure they were tight and no luck there either. I have traced all the wires back as far as they go and I have continuity on all three, neutral, hot, and ground. Yes neutral is on neutral bus, ground on ground bus.

Anyone have any suggestions???
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:55 PM   #28
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Default Gggggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

OK, so now I've bypassed EVERYTHING in the panel with the exception of the 5A breaker supplying the 3A 12V switching power supply and hooked one hot leg to the input of the breaker, removed all jumpers on neutral and ground dist blocks so the only connections are neutral from 50A GFCI spa panel to neutral dist block to neutral of 12V supply, ground from spa panel to ground dist block to ground of 12V power supply, 1 hot leg from spa panel to 5A breaker to 12V power supply, and I hooked the other hot leg to another breaker that is off just to make sure it had a termination point.

DAMN THING STILL TRIPS GFCI!!

This is the supply I'm using at this link




Before I bypassed everything I flipped all the breakers to on in the panel except the 5A for the power supply and had no problems.

I still for the life of me can't figure out why in the hell this power supply can be wired to a cord leading to a GFCI receptacle and not cause any problems but it is causing the 50A spa panel to freak out.

GGGGGGGGGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:17 PM   #29
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Is this the only 110V device in the panel? If you plug it into another 110 GFCI outlet and it doesnt pop I would suspect there is something wrong with the GFCI spa breaker or how it's wired. My suspicion is the neutral may be mis wired in the spa breaker. Is this the only 110 device in the panel?

Another thing you could try is to remove the gnd from the power supply and see if the breaker still pops. That would tell you if the problem is due to a ground fault or not.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:17 PM   #30
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Have you considered the possibility of a bad power supply? It may have an internal short...maybe you DID let the smoke out.


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