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Old 01-30-2007, 12:35 AM   #11
D*Bo
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I inserted a razor blade between the braid and cut the tubing inside. I worked my way around untill I seperated it and slid the hose out of the braid.
A bit of a pain, and it mangles the braid at the connector a little, but it still worked great. Bettter than the Bazooka-T
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Old 01-30-2007, 12:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D*Bo
I inserted a razor blade between the braid and cut the tubing inside. I worked my way around untill I seperated it and slid the hose out of the braid.
A bit of a pain, and it mangles the braid at the connector a little, but it still worked great. Bettter than the Bazooka-T
That's a great idea. Using a pointed blade exacto knife I could puncture the hose in enough places to weaken it to the point where it would easily break

 
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Old 01-30-2007, 12:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkonkie
That's a great idea. Using a pointed blade exacto knife I could puncture the hose in enough places to weaken it to the point where it would easily break
Just.....might....work!
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Old 01-30-2007, 04:52 PM   #14
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That's certainly one way to save $2.50. In most cases you'd use a female NPT to hose barb fitting $1.75 and a stainless hose clamp ($.75). As long as it doesn't take you more than 10 minutes to get the hose out, you'll feel like you've come out ahead.
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Old 01-30-2007, 05:18 PM   #15
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I used compression fittings when I made my braid (in a loop configuration). It looks neater and there aren't any SS wire bits to get stuck in your hand once it's put together.

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Old 01-30-2007, 05:40 PM   #16
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How does the compression nut actually hold onto the braid? Do you have the reinforcing inserts stuck inside to provide a backing? Wasn't the compression tee like $10?. I would have used a copper Tee with hose clamps to go cheaper. The clamps actually cover the fraying ends of the braid quite well. Maybe with the inflated price of copper it would be a break even deal.
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:14 PM   #17
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I don't remember how much it cost, I just lumped it in with a bunch of other stuff I was buying at the time. The reinforcing inserts are in there. The hose braid was from a 1" diameter hose, so when compressed in the nut it holds pretty tight - I can't pull it out without unscrewing it.

I wasn't trying to go cheap as possible, I just wanted something that would work and look neat and wasn't paying as much attention to price. My setup is probably a little pricier than a system that would work just as well done another way.
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:46 AM   #18
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Buford, how did you connect your compression joint with the bulkhead.. You have a closeup picture of that? I tried to do the same thing recently and I certainly proved that I am a better brewer than plumber.
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Old 01-31-2007, 05:01 AM   #19
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There's a little piece of plastic/vinyl tubing slipped in the compression tee part that connects to the hose barb on the bulkhead. Although the OD of the tubing piece is almost the same as the ID of the compression nut it's not a tight fit and will slip out if you pull on it, but it doesn't need to be watertight. The braid is compressed a little when it's in the mash tun so it stays in place when connected to the bulkhead due to the pressure against it. You can turn the tun upside down and it won't fall out.
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:59 PM   #20
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Ok, when I wasn't able to get a tight seal around my vinyl tubing (same setup as yours), I was certain that I had screwed up the build instructuctions. Thanks.
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