Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Soldering a 1" Lock Nut to Sanke Keg, with Pictures
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:57 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by hatfieldenator View Post
Okay, I see...
So how will you cover up your electrical connections to insure they don't get accidentally pulled off or splashed?
There are different methods for this. One popular method that I will be using is to place on a 3/4 PVC coupler and fill this with potting compound. You will see pictures of them on various electrical threads. Another method is detailed by Kal at the electricbrewery.com.


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Old 11-22-2010, 09:59 PM   #22
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I have collected all parts except the ground lug described in this post. Well, almost the same parts anyway.


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Old 11-23-2010, 02:42 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scut_Monkey View Post
There are different methods for this. One popular method that I will be using is to place on a 3/4 PVC coupler and fill this with potting compound. You will see pictures of them on various electrical threads. Another method is detailed by Kal at the electricbrewery.com.
In regards to the method detailed by Kal at electricbrewery, is it possible to use that method with this sort of set up (a lock nut welded to the outside of the keg)?

I'm having a keg custom made for me to use for my HLT and I'm trying to decide what kind of fitting to have welded on. I really want to make a nice clean electrical box around the element like Kal's, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to do it with a simple 1" locknut welded to the outside of the keg? The other option would be to use a threaded coupler like OhioEd's set up here: (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/e-hlt-help-202955/)?
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:51 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hatfieldenator View Post
In regards to the method detailed by Kal at electricbrewery, is it possible to use that method with this sort of set up (a lock nut welded to the outside of the keg)?

I'm having a keg custom made for me to use for my HLT and I'm trying to decide what kind of fitting to have welded on. I really want to make a nice clean electrical box around the element like Kal's, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to do it with a simple 1" locknut welded to the outside of the keg? The other option would be to use a threaded coupler like OhioEd's set up here: (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/e-hlt-help-202955/)?
Kal's setup is for weld-less. I don't know how much you must change his plan to work for your welded nut.

If you want a welded nut then Tiber_Brew has it figured out in this post. Look at the last picture in that post. The element is inside the box, the gasket must be going through the box to seal against the welded nut. He probably tightens down the element until the box is sandwiched between the element and the nut, but you will have to get the details from him.

Come to think of it, using a box like that would cover up my solder runs.
Meh, I want a nice clean PVC fitting.
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:16 PM   #25
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I used a 1" SLB conduit elbow....it makes for a nice install. Takes a little work, but it was totally worth it
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Old 11-23-2010, 03:35 PM   #26
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One way to go is to cut a hexagonal hole in the back of the box so that it's a nice press fit, then use a little epoxy to keep it from falling off.
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Old 11-23-2010, 06:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaffer View Post
Kal's setup is for weld-less. I don't know how much you must change his plan to work for your welded nut.

If you want a welded nut then Tiber_Brew has it figured out in this post. Look at the last picture in that post. The element is inside the box, the gasket must be going through the box to seal against the welded nut. He probably tightens down the element until the box is sandwiched between the element and the nut, but you will have to get the details from him.
What I did was weld the 1" locknut with grove facing out on the outside of the keg. Then drill a 1.25" hole in the aluminum box, slide the element into the box, and slide the supplied rubber gasket (NOT THE RED O-RING) on after that. So, you have the keg, locknut, black gasket, box, element, in that order. I also used teflon tape on the element threads. The gasket forms a seal between the box and the locknut (inside the groove to keep it from rolling or slipping), and the element is in direct contact with the box, providing a good bonding path for ground. Absolutely zero leaks, no silicone, and many tests + 5 batches so far.

Let me know if you need any more clarification or pictures.

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Old 11-23-2010, 09:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiber_Brew View Post
What I did was weld the 1" locknut with grove facing out on the outside of the keg. Then drill a 1.25" hole in the aluminum box, slide the element into the box, and slide the supplied rubber gasket (NOT THE RED O-RING) on after that. So, you have the keg, locknut, black gasket, box, element, in that order. I also used teflon tape on the element threads. The gasket forms a seal between the box and the locknut (inside the groove to keep it from rolling or slipping), and the element is in direct contact with the box, providing a good bonding path for ground. Absolutely zero leaks, no silicone, and many tests + 5 batches so far.

Let me know if you need any more clarification or pictures.

TB
Thanks, that's what I'm hoping I'll be able to do. Did you have enough clearance of the box away from the wall of the keg? I worry that the box would hit the raised ridge that wraps around the keg wall?
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:31 PM   #29
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Did you have enough clearance of the box away from the wall of the keg? I worry that the box would hit the raised ridge that wraps around the keg wall?
No issues there. Browse my thread for pictures of the element box; you might get a good look at it there. Let me know if you need me to take a better picture.

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Old 11-23-2010, 10:56 PM   #30
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Thanks, I've read through your thread and your build is awesome! Nice work. I'll be stealing ideas from you as I upgrade my system in the near future


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