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Old 11-21-2010, 09:30 PM   #11
Scut_Monkey
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewBeemer View Post
I just wipe down after the solder becomes solid the connection still hot then wait until cooled down then wipe with lacquer thinner.
Does lacquer thinner remove the burnt flux? If so I would rather do this than use sandpaper.

 
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Old 11-21-2010, 10:31 PM   #12
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Actually, flux removes flux. You can get a bit on the cloth and wipe it down. Works great...but you need to wait at least 60 secs so you don't disturb the joint.

 
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:01 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scut_Monkey View Post
Does lacquer thinner remove the burnt flux? If so I would rather do this than use sandpaper.
Yes especially when using soldering paste or rosin-core solder that has become a brown and black tar just requires a little rubbing with a soaked rag.
I prefer to clean it off than scratch up the solder and base metal, like plumbers with a damp rag wiping a joint for that clean professional look.

 
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:30 AM   #14
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A spritz with water while it's still hot cleans up the flux with steam but a star san soak works well also.
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Old 11-22-2010, 12:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scut_Monkey View Post
I experimented a lot with the flux doing multiple test solders. I really don't think it's the MAPP gas that is to blame. I had the same results with propane and being very particular with my technique. In order to avoid the flux from burning I found heating the parts quickly and thereby melting the solder quickly worked the best. As soon as the solder melted I would quickly remove the heat and cool the part with water which removed a good deal of the burnt flux. Heating it slowly seemed to worsen things for me. Additionally, having a shallow "film" of flux burnt much more easily compared to a small pool of it. In most instances it was impossible to keep the flux from burning and I used the same technique to prep with acetone/sanding etc.

In the end the burnt flux is removed with sandpaper and it works great for our purposes.
After doing a few kegs now, I have a method that works well for me. Pre-heat about a 1 square foot area of the keg where you're going to solder. If you get this up to like 200F, it won't be sucking heat away from the joint once you focus the heat there. Slowly work the heat closer and closer to the joint but never put the flame directly on the area that's fluxed. Basically the MAPP flame is way hotter than flux can take, but the 430F melting point of the solder is not.

If you do burn the flux and you notice it's fouling up your work, drop some flux on it and it will clean up even if you're done applying the solder.
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:09 AM   #16
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+1...I find it helps to keep the flux in a medicine dropper (clearly labelled flux)....that way you don't go putting a brush on the hot surface and potentially melt the brush/foul the joint.

 
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Old 11-22-2010, 02:23 AM   #17
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Acid brushes are made with hair not nylon, no melting of contamination problems just the brush into the torch flame this a hand eye control problem.

My radiator repair shop friend always takes a acid brush and applies acid to a wet joint to quick freeze it without any problems for over 50 years resoldering thin brass tubes to tank bases.

 
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:23 PM   #18
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What do you use on the threads of the heating element to insure there's no leak from the threads? Or do you just use an O-Ring between the element and the lock nut?

 
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Old 11-22-2010, 08:44 PM   #19
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The element comes with a rubber gasket that fits in the groove of the lock nut.
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Old 11-22-2010, 09:39 PM   #20
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Okay, I see...
So how will you cover up your electrical connections to insure they don't get accidentally pulled off or splashed?

 
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