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Old 12-06-2010, 01:38 PM   #21
DeeDub76
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammis View Post
I'm lucky enough to have a friend (our technical services manager) who has a cart full of "old parts" which are no longer being used.
Nothing better than "freebie" stuff! Nice build

 
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:16 AM   #22
hammis
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kklowell:

I totally stole the idea of the insulation from Deepsix, so the credit has to go to him. The stuff i used is about 2 inches wide and comes in 30ft rolls, took about 2 rolls to cover 1 keg with 2 layers.

akthor:

not sure how well it holds the heat yet, still finishing the project, i havent actually brewed yet, life has been REALLY busy these last 2 months and most of my work has come to a grinding halt. i hope to get everything done in the next week or so and actually brew next weekend. i will let you know how well it holds heat when i test it out

 
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:22 AM   #23
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bassettwrangler:

i havent bought any PID's yet, but from what i've read on the forum (and i've read a LOT) i think the way i will be going is with the Auber PID's lots of people seem to be using. You can get them right off Auber's website for a decent price.

 
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Old 12-11-2010, 12:59 PM   #24
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I'm trying to figure out how to get my kids to buy me an Auber PID or two for Christmas... but, being the Grinch that I am it seems kind of "wrong" to now suggest what I want Santa to bring me. LOL

 
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:23 AM   #25
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haha, shouldnt burn bridges man... lol

below are some updated pictures of the panel. I finished about 95% of the rewiring and cleanup of it this morning...finally. Between travelling the last 2 weeks and the digging myself out after the snowstorm we had i havent had much chance to get anything done until now. I removed most of the old wiring and replaced it with newer stuff and cleaned it up with some zip ties. I will probably test it tomorrow to make sure it works. And then onwards with the build. Only a few things left to do and then i will hopefully be able to actually brew this weekend
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:07 AM   #26
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ok so here is the question of the day. i have my panel wired up, i'm hoping to brew this coming weekend, and i start thinking about a gfci. currently the way i have wired my setup is such: i have a new 2 pole 30a breaker wired into my homes breaker panel, from this i have wired a dryer outlet. i plan on connecting my panel via the dryer outlet. would it be catastrophic if i didnt have a gfci in there someplace? i havent been able to find one for less than $200

 
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:12 AM   #27
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Not required, your washing machine, dryer, cookstove, none of that stuff is on a GFCI. As long as you have your grounds connected correctly you should have no problem even if a hot line shorts to something else, it will just kick the breaker.
You can get a GFCI breaker if you want, but I don't think I would bother.
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Todays Brew - 5 gallons of Pumpkin Ale
In Fining; White Chocolate Port, Barrollo, Muscadine
Bottled; Octoberfest Lager, SalmonFest Lager, Big Head Red, Boca Bitch Gluetin Free, Belgian Wit, Dark Knight Sweet Stout, American Pale, Boca Brown Ale

 
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:14 AM   #28
humann_brewing
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looking great!

 
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Old 12-14-2010, 03:30 AM   #29
Ohio-Ed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammis View Post
ok so here is the question of the day. i have my panel wired up, i'm hoping to brew this coming weekend, and i start thinking about a gfci. currently the way i have wired my setup is such: i have a new 2 pole 30a breaker wired into my homes breaker panel, from this i have wired a dryer outlet. i plan on connecting my panel via the dryer outlet. would it be catastrophic if i didnt have a gfci in there someplace? i havent been able to find one for less than $200
I suggest you install a GFCI.
A breaker will not trip until the current reaches the trip point, like 30amps, which is way more than enough to kill you.
A gfci monitors the difference between the hot line(s) and the neutral and will trip if there is a very minor difference.

Breakers are intended to protect wires and equipment, GFCIs are intended to save lives.

Ed

 
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:13 PM   #30
kal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER View Post
Not required, your washing machine, dryer, cookstove, none of that stuff is on a GFCI. As long as you have your grounds connected correctly you should have no problem even if a hot line shorts to something else, it will just kick the breaker.
You can get a GFCI breaker if you want, but I don't think I would bother.
While that is technically true, I would never *ever* recommend to anyone that they do NOT install a GFCI.

The washing machine, dryer, and cookstove you mentioned are designed by companies with certified electrical and mechanical engineers and yes, they will be properly designed as they are sold and will have been CSA/UL approved and tested.

The above mentioned devices also don't use water in the same manner as an electric brew setup which is designed with completely submersed active electrical parts (the element).

That fact that the poster is asking "should I use a GFCI" means he knows very little or nothing about electricity. What are the odds that his setup is properly designed with safety in mind? Pretty much zero. Suggesting that a GFCI not be used is like suggesting to someone who's never driving a car before that they don't need to wear their seatbelt if they're 'careful'. By all means they can do it, but to actually suggest that they don't bother is (I'm sorry), just plain crazy.

You can get a 30A one with a plug and 17 foot cord and free shipping for under $80 (see here). The only reason to NOT use a GFCI is to save money. Only the original poster can decide if their life is worth $80.

I always suggest that people use GFCIs. If people don't that's their own choice. I suggest that people never ever recommend that one NOT be used. Provide the facts and let the person decide for themselves.

To quote my own site:

Quote:
Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI)

A GFI is not to be confused with a circuit breaker found in your electrical breaker panel. Regular breakers are rated for specific current ratings and will switch off (or 'trip') if ever the rated current is exceeded on the circuit they control. The sole purpose of breakers is to protect the wires from overheating.

A GFI (or more accurately, a residual-current device) on the other hand is not used to protect wires or devices - it protects the equipment operator. A GFI will cut power when it detects that the current going in to a circuit does not match the current coming out of the circuit. Often this imbalance (typically only a few milliamps) is caused by current leakage through the body of a person who is grounded and is accidentally touching an energized part of the circuit.

The distinction is important: A circuit breaker saves equipment, a GFI saves lives. While the electrical code varies from country to country, in North America GFIs are typically required in kitchens, bathrooms, and other places that can be wet. A GFI should most definitely be used in the circuit that powers your brewery control panel.

This GFI can be installed in one of two places: Either in the double-pole 30 amp circuit breaker in the electrical panel, or in-line with the control panel power cord.

We managed to find a 240V AC 30 amp GFI cord that was previously used to power Xerox copy machines for less than a double-pole 30 amp GFI breaker. These special 30A GFI power cords unfortunately are very difficult to find so most users will be required to install a double-pole 30A GFI breaker in their electrical panel.

Approximately half a dozen different electrical panel brands exist (Cutler Hammer, Seimens, GE, etc.) so if you purchase a double-pole 30A GFI breaker make sure that it matches your electrical panel. Refer to a qualified electrician for assistance if required.

Please do not forgo using a GFI thinking that simply being 'careful' will be enough. Like the seat belts in your car, a GFI exists because accidents or failures happen, even on properly designed, built, and operated equipment.
Kal

 
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