I've been using HWD Elements for a while now. - Home Brew Forums
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > I've been using HWD Elements for a while now.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11-05-2010, 11:36 AM   #1
p-nut
Recipes 
 
May 2008
Posts: 123



I've been using HWD Elements for a while now. I have a 5500 watt element in my RIMS heater and a 4500 watt in my boil kettle. I purchased both elements because they are stainless elements. I think I purchased one at Lowes and one at Home Depot. I also wanted to see if it was possible to scorch the wort using these HWD elements under normal conditions. So far I have run about 15 batches through my system. Mostly APAs, IPAs, and Koelschs. I have not noticed any scorching at all. Just thought I would share this since everyone seems to be so fearful of these elements.



 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 12:04 PM   #2
Sawdustguy
Recipes 
 
Mar 2009
Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,708
Liked 35 Times on 29 Posts


This whole thing about scortching with High Watt Density elements sounds like a good suggestion for a Myth Busters episode.


__________________
Guy

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 12:28 PM   #3
SweetSounds
Recipes 
 
Jan 2010
Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 1,425
Liked 20 Times on 19 Posts


I think the idea of Jamie and Adam making beer is a great idea - They could have a Mythbusters Brew Fest and invite all of us with our electric rigs!
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecnerwal View Post
What does the primary pressure gauge on the tank tell us? That's right, the temperature. Put it on a scale if you want to know how much is in it...
Put some duct tape over the gauge - Or better yet - Replace the high pressure gauge with a plug - High pressure gauges are useless!

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 01:42 PM   #4
Cpt_Kirks
Recipes 
 
Sep 2008
Lakeland TN
Posts: 3,723
Liked 47 Times on 41 Posts


High Density elements will scorch malt in the mash, and they will melt spots in coolers. I've had both happen trying to use a heatstick in my MLT.

However, the wort scorching is a myth. I have brewed light lagers that were as light colored as water (Light Lager = Gross, but the ladies got plastered ) with no noticeable carmelization.


 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 04:02 PM   #5
Sawdustguy
Recipes 
 
Mar 2009
Manorville, New York
Posts: 2,708
Liked 35 Times on 29 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
High Density elements will scorch malt in the mash, and they will melt spots in coolers. I've had both happen trying to use a heatstick in my MLT.

However, the wort scorching is a myth. I have brewed light lagers that were as light colored as water (Light Lager = Gross, but the ladies got plastered ) with no noticeable carmelization.

I think the discussion is based around RIMS heaters.
__________________
Guy

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-05-2010, 04:20 PM   #6
p-nut
Recipes 
 
May 2008
Posts: 123


Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawdustguy View Post
I think the discussion is based around RIMS heaters.
My RIMS is based on the one you built. I don't think I could go back to gas now. If I were going to change something I would like to mount an element using a Tri-clover fitting. Would the gasket hold up to the heat?

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-08-2010, 08:15 PM   #7
ScubaSteve
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
ScubaSteve's Avatar
Recipes 
 
May 2007
New Bern, NC
Posts: 3,677
Liked 83 Times on 57 Posts


Silicone is good to at least 450F.....

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 08:40 PM   #8
kal
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
kal's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Nov 2006
Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 2,507
Liked 347 Times on 224 Posts


Agreed that it's more of a myth than anything else.

There is however one very good reason to use ULWD elements over regular elements: They won't break if fired up "dry" (not immersed in water). When a regular element is fired up "dry" the element will pop fairly quickly (usually before you notice your mistake!) as there is no water to dissipate the heat. While nobody means to fire up an element by mistake, mistakes do happen. Using ULWD elements provides you with a little bit of insurance against these human errors.

Brew long enough and one day you will forget that you have your element switch in the on position when you first fire up your controlling system. Popping an element is about the last thing you want given that you've likely already milled your grain and have everything ready to go.

You can add insurance to avoid making this myself however... I have a couple of parts on order now and I'm going to retrofit my control panel such that it can't be turned on if either element is in the ON position. One extra safety precaution...

Kal

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 09:27 PM   #9
p-nut
Recipes 
 
May 2008
Posts: 123


Quote:
Originally Posted by kal View Post
Agreed that it's more of a myth than anything else.

There is however one very good reason to use ULWD elements over regular elements: They won't break if fired up "dry" (not immersed in water). When a regular element is fired up "dry" the element will pop fairly quickly (usually before you notice your mistake!) as there is no water to dissipate the heat. While nobody means to fire up an element by mistake, mistakes do happen. Using ULWD elements provides you with a little bit of insurance against these human errors.

Brew long enough and one day you will forget that you have your element switch in the on position when you first fire up your controlling system. Popping an element is about the last thing you want given that you've likely already milled your grain and have everything ready to go.

You can add insurance to avoid making this myself however... I have a couple of parts on order now and I'm going to retrofit my control panel such that it can't be turned on if either element is in the ON position. One extra safety precaution...

Kal
I have already smoked one element. I have two safeties on the element now. I am using a current switch on the pump. If the pump isn't running the element will turn off. The other is a manual high limit set to trip at 180 degrees. The only time I dry fired the element was when I plugged a lamp into the outlet for the pump. This showed I had pump status and turned the element on. The current switch has saved me numerous times since I installed it. That was over 20 batches ago when I first started using the system. I am not as worried about the BK element because I am usually watching the water level to see when to turn it on.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 11-09-2010, 11:28 PM   #10
samc
Recipes 
 
Aug 2008
Portland OR
Posts: 5,387
Liked 62 Times on 58 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by p-nut View Post
My RIMS is based on the one you built. I don't think I could go back to gas now. If I were going to change something I would like to mount an element using a Tri-clover fitting. Would the gasket hold up to the heat?
I've got my element on a tri-clover in a Sawdustguy RIMS design, so far 3 brews and no issues.



 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Do elements HAVE to be LD/ULD? mattd2 Electric Brewing 27 12-13-2010 11:57 PM
Running Elements in a series JVD_X Electric Brewing 2 10-13-2010 05:25 PM


Forum Jump