Looking for a 2 pole Contactor, 30A, 120V Coil that is Din rail mountable - Page 2 - Home Brew Forums
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Old 11-09-2010, 12:35 AM   #11
Budzu
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Here you go. $13.24 DIN mountable, 120v coil, 30a 2 pole. Its DPST but they also have double throw.


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Old 11-09-2010, 02:28 PM   #12
SweetSounds
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I have a bunch of 3-Phase DIN contactors - I'll look to see if any are rated for 30 Amps...


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What does the primary pressure gauge on the tank tell us? That's right, the temperature. Put it on a scale if you want to know how much is in it...
Put some duct tape over the gauge - Or better yet - Replace the high pressure gauge with a plug - High pressure gauges are useless!

 
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Old 11-09-2010, 04:27 PM   #13
Ohio-Ed
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I used an Auber contactor and two of these to mount it to the din rail:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#din-rail-mount-clips/=9n7yzr

Ed

 
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Old 11-11-2010, 12:18 AM   #14
Windsors
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May 2008
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Ohio-Ed and Budzu - thanks for replies and suggestions.

I have been looking for the clips that Ohio-Ed suggested.

Thanks again.


SweetSounds, if those 3-Phase DIN contactors are rated for 30 Amps...and will work with 240 V single phase, I would be interested in buying 3 from you.

I haven't purchased anything yet.

Bill

 
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:08 AM   #15
Quaffer
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Dec 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windsors View Post
I am ready to order some stuff from Automation Direct and was searching their site for a 2 pole, 30 A, 120 V Coil Contactor like Auberins has http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=129 .

They are going to be used to shut off the 240 V power to 4500 Amp elements.

Can anyone help on this ?Bill
I am using two 5500W and one 3000W heater, and I picked an inexpensive 40A / 50A resistive load 3-pole contactor, like this 120V one for all three, except the ones I'm getting have 24V coils. The 30A/40Ar version is a little less.They just raised the price by $4.01 since I ordered mine five days ago, but it is still a good deal. The 40A contacts are going to last longer than the 30A ones. No DIN rail mounts though.

Edit: The 2-pole 30/40Ar 120V coil contactor is an even better deal. I need the 3-pole because I will also switch neutral to the element, and I want to leave the heater element "dry" when not in operation.
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Old 11-11-2010, 02:19 PM   #16
ScubaSteve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaffer View Post
I am using two 5500W and one 3000W heater, and I picked an inexpensive 40A / 50A resistive load 3-pole contactor, like this 120V one for all three, except the ones I'm getting have 24V coils. The 30A/40Ar version is a little less.They just raised the price by $4.01 since I ordered mine five days ago, but it is still a good deal. The 40A contacts are going to last longer than the 30A ones. No DIN rail mounts though.

Edit: The 2-pole 30/40Ar 120V coil contactor is an even better deal. I need the 3-pole because I will also switch neutral to the element, and I want to leave the heater element "dry" when not in operation.
How/why are you switching neutral to the element? Isn't it 2 hots; I know they only have 2 terminals....or did you get a different kind of element?

 
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Old 11-11-2010, 02:34 PM   #17
SweetSounds
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quaffer View Post
Edit: The 2-pole 30/40Ar 120V coil contactor is an even better deal. I need the 3-pole because I will also switch neutral to the element, and I want to leave the heater element "dry" when not in operation.
Your elements don't require a neutral - Just 2 hots.

And you DO NOT want to switch the ground - That should be connected at all times!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecnerwal View Post
What does the primary pressure gauge on the tank tell us? That's right, the temperature. Put it on a scale if you want to know how much is in it...
Put some duct tape over the gauge - Or better yet - Replace the high pressure gauge with a plug - High pressure gauges are useless!

 
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:43 PM   #18
Windsors
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Quaffer,

Those look good. I'll be ordering 3.

Thanks

 
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Old 11-11-2010, 03:45 PM   #19
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Definitely not suggesting that ground be switched I guess I'm wondering if switching neutral is a personal choice or required by the specific elements he has. And if it's a personal choice, why is it necessary? The electric potential (voltage) is eliminated if you are breaking the 2 hots.

 
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Old 11-11-2010, 04:37 PM   #20
Quaffer
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Guys, sorry about the confusion I caused. Here's the plan: I will have an SPDT relay switching live (L2) or Neutral to one side of the heater element. I will have an SSR that switches L1 to the other side of the element. All this on the load side of the 3-pole contactor, with Neutral on one of the poles. Yes, I could have put the relay on the other side of the contactor and used a 2-pole, but I chose to put it on the load side. That is why I want a 3-pole contactor. The truth is that I didn't think of the alternate placement of the relay at first. Then when I did I still preferred the 3-pole, especially since I had just found this 40A/50A resistive 3P contactor for only $16.16. It has a sort of neat symmetry to it with the SSR and relay on the same side.

I will be posting a schematic soon and it will all become clear as mud. Thank you all for trying to save me from a dumb mistake. There have been plenty of times when that would indeed have been the case.


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