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Old 10-28-2010, 08:50 PM   #11
Tiber_Brew
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Do you think that if you exerted enough lateral force on the PVC elbow, you could shear the silicone connection?
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Old 10-28-2010, 08:56 PM   #12
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Couldn't you just tie a knot into the cord inside the elbow?

 
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
I wasn't trying to be nit-picky... Looks like a nice solution for insulating the connections. I was just wondering if you had found a way to build a strain relief into it that I wasn't seeing.
Sorry, I realized after re-reading my post it came back pretty defensive.
The strain relief pretty much comes from the silicone and the cable connections being pulled at the same time because I pulled all the cable slack out of the elbow before tightening up the comp. fitting. I have already yanked the cable, and bashed the pvc just in handling/moving from the basement to the yard to brew, and it seems pretty stout.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiber_Brew
Do you think that if you exerted enough lateral force on the PVC elbow, you could shear the silicone connection?
You probably could, but because the plastic part of the element extends into the elbow 1/2-3/4 of an inch, there isn't much lateral play.

 
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Old 10-28-2010, 09:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devilishprune View Post
Couldn't you just tie a knot into the cord inside the elbow?
Everything fits so well, there probably isn't enough room to do that, the compression fitting fits so tight it pretty much does the same thing. the weak point would be the pvc meeting the element, which is upstream of what a knot would accomplish anyway.

 
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Old 10-28-2010, 10:25 PM   #15
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Well, you could use JB weld instead of silicone to bond everything. Probably a bit stronger.....but if you got some cheap epoxy (cheaper than JB Weld) you could probably fill the whole damn thing!

 
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Old 10-29-2010, 12:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncobum View Post
Sorry, I realized after re-reading my post it came back pretty defensive.
The strain relief pretty much comes from the silicone and the cable connections being pulled at the same time because I pulled all the cable slack out of the elbow before tightening up the comp. fitting. I have already yanked the cable, and bashed the pvc just in handling/moving from the basement to the yard to brew, and it seems pretty stout.

You probably could, but because the plastic part of the element extends into the elbow 1/2-3/4 of an inch, there isn't much lateral play.
Again, not trying to be picky... in an ideal situation, the strain relief should put any force of pulling the cord on the jacket of the cord and not the electrical connections... the idea is to protect the connections. With that in mind you might actually be a bit better off with some slack in the wire inside the elbow so the silicone takes the brunt of someone tripping over the cord before the connection get involved. (I know you have the cords up out of the way so they're not gonna be tripped over, I was just using that as an example)

I'm not trying to pick at your design, just saying, if you can work out the strain relief, I think you have a big time winner... cheap and easy.

Ed

 
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:41 AM   #17
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Marvelous! Subscribed.
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Old 10-29-2010, 04:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
Again, not trying to be picky... in an ideal situation, the strain relief should put any force of pulling the cord on the jacket of the cord and not the electrical connections... the idea is to protect the connections. With that in mind you might actually be a bit better off with some slack in the wire inside the elbow so the silicone takes the brunt of someone tripping over the cord before the connection get involved. (I know you have the cords up out of the way so they're not gonna be tripped over, I was just using that as an example)

I'm not trying to pick at your design, just saying, if you can work out the strain relief, I think you have a big time winner... cheap and easy.

Ed
I hear what you are are saying, but I brew alone, the cable ends were tinned to make a solid connection, and I truly believe it would up-end the whole keg before any pulling apart of the connection would occur. I am just putting something out there that works for me that is cheap and easy.

As an aside, I also found a piece that that plugs into a normal grounded outlet that is an inline GFCI outlet that home depot doesn't have on their site but carries in my store. It costs about the same as a bare gfci outlet, but it plugs inline... easy-peasy.

 
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:15 AM   #19
SenorWanderer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncobum View Post
as I was roaming around the depot with element in hand trying pvc parts and whatnot, I came upon this guy:
I love this. You've solved this issue for me! I wanted to avoid the electrical box on the keg, and I want to weld the locknut as well. I think I'll probably JB weld the crap out of the connections instead of the silicone. And I'll also sand the elbow smooth and spray it with some of that sweet hammered metal paint before final assembly.

PROST!

 
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Old 11-04-2010, 03:09 PM   #20
Tiber_Brew
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorWanderer View Post
...I wanted to avoid the electrical box on the keg...
Why's that?
__________________
On tap:
1. American Pale Ale 2. Michigan IPL 3. Helles 4. Kentucky Common 5.[Nitrogen] Oat Blonde
Primary:
1. Oatmeal Stout 2. Oatmeal Stout 3. none 4. none 5. none 6. none
Secondary:
1. Brett Ale 2. none 3. none 4. none 5. none
Bottled:
About 28 gallons of beer & 2.5 gallons of mead
Kegged & conditioning:
Rye Barrel aged DIPA, Helles, Kentucky Common

Current batch #: 227

 
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