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Old 10-19-2010, 10:48 PM   #1
Beavdowg
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Apr 2009
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I would love to build an electric MLT and run that into a boil kettle that is heated with a propane burner. I have the propane burner and mash in a cooler. The idea of dialing up a strike temperature and having it nailed everytime and the temp staying the same throughout the mash sounds great. Is this possible? Would the heating element burn the grain? What kind of money are we talking about here? I envision the MLT being a SS kettle. I wouldn't know where to start.

thanks for the info



 
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Old 10-20-2010, 03:28 PM   #2
SweetSounds
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The best option for you would probably be an electric RIMS setup, though that would require a pump.

But, come to think of it, direct fired mashing also requires a pump to circulate the mash and keep it from scorching.

I don't think you can just jam an element in the mash without scorching the grains, and even if you could, the temperature would be wildly different across the grain bed.


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What does the primary pressure gauge on the tank tell us? That's right, the temperature. Put it on a scale if you want to know how much is in it...
Put some duct tape over the gauge - Or better yet - Replace the high pressure gauge with a plug - High pressure gauges are useless!

 
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Old 10-20-2010, 03:30 PM   #3
Walker
I use secondaries. :p
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It is generally recommended that you not put a heating element directly into the MLT for exactly the reason you menion; scorched/burned grains.

Typically, people build a HERMS or RIMS system when they want to have control over mash temps, There are a gazillion threads on here documenting the builds of a number of these systems. Searching for "HERMS" or "RIMS" will turn up a bunch of interesting reading.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:50 PM   #4
beerFacedotkom
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Sep 2011
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That would be cool for the HLT though right? Just having all your mash then sparge water heated automatically to the right temp - and right amount would save a lot of time. I'm constantly sticking the thermometer in there, forgetting it, then having to cool it down. I'm just dying to create something automated though too, I must admit. I bought a PID controller on ebay a few years ago and a heating element that cost about $30. The element runs on 220V and the conroller is a fancy thermostat that will take a small learning curve, should be able to set it up and monitor it with my lap top or even iPad....If anyone can share the tech details with me on something they've similarly built, I would be most grateful. If I could pay you in delicious homebrew, I would fer sure dude!

 
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Old 09-12-2011, 06:37 PM   #5
audger
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Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerFacedotkom View Post
If anyone can share the tech details with me on something they've similarly built, I would be most grateful. If I could pay you in delicious homebrew, I would fer sure dude!
ill trade you this link for some beer
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/sho...ng-rig-199165/

but really- start by reading that whole thread. there is another one called "show us your brew sculpture" in the DIY subforum that also has 100 pages of ideas. these concepts have been done many times before.

 
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:03 PM   #6
Gussymo
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I have an element under a false bottom in my Mash Tun. I control it with a PID and continuously recirculate with a pump. Just brewed 2 batches with it Sunday. It takes some experimenting to get the water amounts figured out.
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:22 AM   #7
bf514921
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so you have a pid, could get a stainless element, sounds to me like your a gfi and ssr away from an electrc MLT

 
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:23 AM   #8
bf514921
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gussymo - sounds to me like you made and integrated rims?

 
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:05 PM   #9
audger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gussymo View Post
I have an element under a false bottom in my Mash Tun.
have any pictures? im curious to see how that is all set up. i know i wouldnt have room for that in the kettles i use.

 
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:25 PM   #10
Gussymo
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I will try to get some pics up soon. It is basically the hot liquer tank in Kal's electric brewery (http://theelectricbrewery.com/) with a 1650 watt 120 volt element as low in the pot as I could get it. I got a false bottom from Jaybird here on HBT and added stainless legs made of bolts. I can adjust the level of the false bottom by turning the nuts on the bolts. That's about it. The false bottom is just above the element. I've brewed 4 batches with it and the only issue is measuring the strike water. There is about 1.5 gallons under the false bottom.


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