Coldbreak Brewing Giveaway - Open to All!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing > Multiple GFCI wiring question
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-19-2010, 02:37 PM   #1
Cpt_Kirks
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lakeland TN
Posts: 3,746
Liked 46 Times on 40 Posts

Default Multiple GFCI wiring question

I use two 20A 120v circuits for my brewing. Currently, I have a 20A extension cord I made for each. Each cord has a 20A GFCI and 20A switch to control it.

Last weekend, I built a basic single tier wooden brewstand. Now, I'm thinking of taking my extension cords apart and building them into the stand.

One circuit I'm going to leave alone. It will be a 20A GFCI with a simple switch, same as I have now. That one will be for a heatstick only.

The other circuit I want to split. There will be a 20A GFCI with switch, and a 15A GFCI with switch. The 20A will be for a heatstick, the 15A will be for a pump. The 20A and 15A sub circuits will not be in use at the same time.

What will be the best way to wire the 15A and 20A GFCI's to the single input wire?



Cpt_Kirks is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2010, 04:48 PM   #2
Ohio-Ed
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Ohio-Ed's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,072
Liked 19 Times on 18 Posts

Default

Wire the 20amp GFCI to the line and run a separate receptacle from the "LOAD" terminals of the GFCI for the 15amp.

You do not need a 15amp GFCI, the 20amp will provide GFCI protection to anything wired from it's "LOAD" terminals.


Ohio-Ed is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2010, 05:54 PM   #3
Cpt_Kirks
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lakeland TN
Posts: 3,746
Liked 46 Times on 40 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
Wire the 20amp GFCI to the line and run a separate receptacle from the "LOAD" terminals of the GFCI for the 15amp.

You do not need a 15amp GFCI, the 20amp will provide GFCI protection to anything wired from it's "LOAD" terminals.
Problem with that is, I need two switched circuits there. If I switch off the 20A GFCI, I turn off the heatstick and the pump.
Cpt_Kirks is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2010, 08:49 PM   #4
Ohio-Ed
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Ohio-Ed's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,072
Liked 19 Times on 18 Posts

Default

You can put the switch after the plug in-line with your heatstick, or run 2 switched receptacles off the "LOAD" terminals (in which case you actually end up with three receptacles).
Ohio-Ed is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2010, 09:27 PM   #5
Cpt_Kirks
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lakeland TN
Posts: 3,746
Liked 46 Times on 40 Posts

Default

What I'm thinking, is to split the input.

Black will go through switches to GFCI units, white will connect to both GFCI units.

That should work, but GFCI's are a little odd at times.
Cpt_Kirks is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2010, 10:11 PM   #6
Ohio-Ed
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Ohio-Ed's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,072
Liked 19 Times on 18 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
What I'm thinking, is to split the input.

Black will go through switches to GFCI units, white will connect to both GFCI units.

That should work, but GFCI's are a little odd at times.
I think I understand what you want to accomplish and what you are talking about will provide power to the devices.

The reality is that you should try to have the GFCI as close to the source as possible for the most protection. Ideally a breaker or wall receptacle is the location of the GFCI. Every connection you have before the GFCI is NOT protected by it and every one after is. My thoughts were to try to get your gfci in your circuit as soon as possible.

So... wet hands, switches in front of the gfci... not the perfect setup.
Ohio-Ed is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2010, 03:46 AM   #7
Cpt_Kirks
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Lakeland TN
Posts: 3,746
Liked 46 Times on 40 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio-Ed View Post
I think I understand what you want to accomplish and what you are talking about will provide power to the devices.

The reality is that you should try to have the GFCI as close to the source as possible for the most protection. Ideally a breaker or wall receptacle is the location of the GFCI. Every connection you have before the GFCI is NOT protected by it and every one after is. My thoughts were to try to get your gfci in your circuit as soon as possible.

So... wet hands, switches in front of the gfci... not the perfect setup.
This new setup is just a variation on what I'm using now:



I see what you mean, but having the GFCI back in the circuit can have consequences, too.

A few years ago, I was working on some lights. The lights were plugged into a long extension cord, which was plugged into a GFCI. The lights shorted out against an aluminum table. The GFCI tripped, but because of the length of the extension cord, there was enough of a capacitive charge to give me a pretty good zap.
Cpt_Kirks is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2010, 11:34 AM   #8
P-J
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,335
Liked 292 Times on 229 Posts
Likes Given: 495

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt_Kirks View Post
... A few years ago, I was working on some lights. The lights were plugged into a long extension cord, which was plugged into a GFCI. The lights shorted out against an aluminum table. The GFCI tripped, but because of the length of the extension cord, there was enough of a capacitive charge to give me a pretty good zap.
What? I don't think so.
There would not be any "capacitive charge" built up in an extension cord. More than likely, you were the path to ground that tripped the GFCI.
IMHO
P-J is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2010, 03:22 PM   #9
SweetSounds
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 1,429
Liked 19 Times on 18 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

Something like this could work:
The first 20 Amp GFCI "Load" is switched to an outlet. this gives you an un-switched outlet (The GFCI) and a switched outlet. This can be done inside a 3-Gang electrical box.

The second 20 Amp GFCI "Load" is run to each of 2 switches. Those 2 switches each feed 1/2 of another outlet. This way you again have an un-switched GFCI (Always on power, if you need it) and each plug in the receptacle is individually switched by breaking the "Tab" on the hot side of the 20 amp receptacle.

Essentially, you wind up with (2) unswitched GFCI protected receptacles, each on independent 20 amp circuits, and 3 switched 20 amp receptacles protected by the GFCIs.

All of this would fit in (1) 4-gang box, and (1) 3-gang box.



__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecnerwal View Post
What does the primary pressure gauge on the tank tell us? That's right, the temperature. Put it on a scale if you want to know how much is in it...
Put some duct tape over the gauge - Or better yet - Replace the high pressure gauge with a plug - High pressure gauges are useless!
SweetSounds is offline
 
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Heatstick of doom! Start with wiring Qs. nostalgia Electric Brewing 40 01-17-2012 12:49 AM
Wiring diagram advice frank551 Electric Brewing 6 10-19-2010 01:56 PM


Forum Jump

Newest Threads

LATEST SPONSOR DEALS