Next step was to work on the lid. I skinned the lid in some ½” baltic plywood I had. This will then get covered in oak. Skinning the sides of the lid makes it wider than the base so when I add the finish oak to it, it will cover up the lid seal. Plywood is glued and screwed to the lid.
Here I have the top layer of oak plywood on, and am fitting the side pieces. The top is ¼” oak plywood with the MDF core. The sides are ¾” solid oak strip. I cut the sides long enough to hang over the top of the collar so you won’t see any gaps or the rubber seal.
Here I have all of the oak attached. I have just rounded over the edges with my router.
Next step was bodywork! This thing was covered in dents.
Next step paint! I initially chose a rustoleum hammered copper finish. I initially had doubts about how it would look with the oak, but I loved the color on the can.
I should have followed my instinct, the copper looked horrible with the oak. Another trip to the BORG for more paint. This time it’s rustoleum hammered black. In many of the build threads I read, I always favored the black anyways. So with this hammered finish paint, ignore the instructions that say to apply light coats. It will look like normal paint of you do this. It has to be sprayed heavy.
Now it is time to do more woodwork. I cut oak boards to cover the wheeled base, and the gap between the base and the keezer. Here they are being finished. I stained them with Minwax golden oak stain, then topped with some gloss exterior urethane. This urethane sucked. I had a hard time getting it to harden. I ended up having to put the pieces out in the sun to cure. I should have just used normal polyurethane.
Here I am finishing the top. The sides got 3 coats of urethane, the top has 5.