How to build a control panel (part 1)

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kal

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Hi everyone!

I get emails from forum members every day asking when my control panel writeup will be done, so I'm happy to announce that my "how to build a brewing control panel" article is now complete!

Even with all the pictures done for over year now this took me a stupid amount of time to write, close to 200 hours over the last 3 weeks.

See: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-1

Teaser images:

IMG_6636.jpg


IMG_6717.jpg


IMG_6681.jpg


IMG_3568.jpg


October 22: Part 2 is now online as well, making the documentation complete!

Hope it helps someone!


Kal
 
Wow! Phenomenal! The instructions are super, especially giving details for each part and where to obtain them.
 
Outstanding!
This has got to stand out as the most epic control panel (Edit: BREWERY) in both function and design. It literally convinced me that I needed to go electric. Seriously :mug:
 
I don't even brew electric but this is worthy of a PROST!
Thank you for sharing

PS... Is there way to print out the full documentation of your control panel build that you have written up on your website? I am curious as this would be amazing piece of information to have on hand for my future conversion to Electric Brewing.
 
Bravo Kal! Impeccable documentation.
Thanks!
Let me know if you find any mistakes (even typo's) or things that aren't clear. I'm sure there must be a ton. My eyes are glazed over from having read it too many times.

PS... Is there way to print out the full documentation of your control panel build that you have written up on your website? I am curious as this would be amazing piece of information to have on hand for my future conversion to Electric Brewing.

Afraid not, sorry! Viewing it online helps pay for the dedicated server I have to pay for to host the content. If everyone printed it out and walked away, it wouldn't last very long.

Kal
 
Kal - big thank you. There are several people on this board that seem to always contribute really incredible content and you are one of them! I look forward to reading it and learning.
 
Kal, you really are an HBT MVP. I don't think I could find the time and resources to build a rig like this; let alone document it the way that you did. Expect a lot of people to follow in your footsteps.
 
Do you plan on designing a control/information panel for a gas driven brew system? Or could this be used as is?
 
Afraid not, sorry! Viewing it online helps pay for the dedicated server I have to pay for to host the content. If everyone printed it out and walked away, it wouldn't last very long.

Kal

Understood.... officially added to my Favorites!
Thanks
 
I saw that you posted this on your site last night... Great job as usual. I am going to 'borrow' a lot of your info on my build. Thanks for all the work you have done on this project Kal. Can't wait to see the rest. :)
 
Do you plan on designing a control/information panel for a gas driven brew system? Or could this be used as is?

Oh god no. This is me documenting my own setup that I use built for my own personal use because lots of people seemed interested.

While I do like helping, spending many hundreds of hours building and documenting a gas setup that I'll never use (not to mention the money spent) just to help other people is a bit above the level of effort I'm willing to put forward. Besides, I still have hundreds of hours left on documenting my current setup. ;)

A lot of what's in the control panel could possibly be used in a gas setup. I don't know, I've never built a gas setup. The whole method of heating would be completely different of course. I can't help with this. Sorry!

Kal
 
I saw that you posted this on your site last night... Great job as usual. I am going to 'borrow' a lot of your info on my build.
Excellent - that's what it's there for! Let me know if anything's not clear. As questions come in I always go back and refine the text.

Kal
 
Perfect write up. Very clear, to the point and with great pictures. When I'm able to spend the money I'll most likely be emulating most of your setup with some changes. The electronics are where I need the help. Looking forward to part II of the write up.
 
Perfect write up. Very clear, to the point and with great pictures. When I'm able to spend the money I'll most likely be emulating most of your setup with some changes. The electronics are where I need the help. Looking forward to part II of the write up.
What sort of changes? Just curious!

Kal
 
Been working on the wiring diagrams over the last few days... what do you guys think?

circuit_diagram.png


Kal
 
I didn't think you could ground a 666 timer in holy water?!? :drunk:

Edit: Never mind - I After closer examination, it has to get through the magic smoke :rockin:
 
Never let out the magic smoke! ;)

Ok, in all seriousness, I need some feedback on the wiring diagrams I'm working on now.

The whole thing could be done in one big schematic but a lot of people have told me they don't understand them. Makes sense as the symbols can and will be confusing to anyone who doesn't have electronics experience.

My intent is over a series of a dozen or so pictures, show exactly what size and colour wires to place between which connection point using regular part pictures using only a few wires at a time. The reader doesn't have to know how to read a schematic.

For example, here's the power input portion that shows how the power key switch, power light, and main power input relay operate:

power.jpg


To summarize: Turn the power key switch ON allows 120V to pass through the coil in the relay closing the relay which in turn supplies power to HOT and NEUTRAL bars which are used to power various low power 120V devices such as the power light.

Is that straightforward and clear?

Where connectors are important, I label them. Where they don't matter there's no label. For example, the power light has 2 connectors but it doesn't matter which wire goes where.

(Assume you have all the parts installed already [as per earlier instructions]and you've been shown how to crimp spades on to the wires).

I would then go on to the next image which would cover a different set of wires, and so on...

Feedback appreciated!

Kal
 
It easily understandable, but when you label the key switch connections, you assume they bought the same key switch as you used. Same with the contactor.

I can't really think of a better way to build a diagram that's "Idiot proof", but it's dangerous. I could see someone (That shouldn't be wiring a panel anyway) blindly connecting a hot wire to another hot wire on a 2 pole contactor because the numbers matched the drawing.

I think the ability to read a schematic of a switch, and properly translate that to where to screw a wire into a real device is critical before anyone should even think about attempting a build with this kind of current...
 
I agree with Sweet. Anyone who can't read a proper schematic or at least have the level of knowledge to be able to figure it out, scares the crap out of me trying something even close to a full blown panel build.

Helping someone put together a tool box for a pump and a single PID is one thing (white goes here, that's neutral, then attach black here, etc.), but once it goes to this scale, I really think some knowledge is a really good idea. I mean these panels cost thousands of dollars, not something I throw away on an electrical fire or fried e-circuit...

Of course do as you like, but I wouldn't post a "dumbies" (no offense meant) version of your schematic. Some people think that is a "code-nazi" attitude, but I know a fair deal about circuits and EE and even I have blown up my fair share of electronics. Just not something to be messed with IMO.

Also, as Sweet said, a schematic is easily used by someone who does know what they are doing and adapted to the parts they are actually using.

I am sure your writeup will be immaculate and detailed either way. Awesome stuff. :rockin:
 
It easily understandable, but when you label the key switch connections, you assume they bought the same key switch as you used. Same with the contactor.
Good point. I do say (and link) earlier to purchase a key switch with one normally open contactor. I think what I'll do is remove the 3 and 4 labels. There are only 2 connection points on a single contactor switch so there's no reason to label them. I'll just leave the "NO contact block text" below.

I can't really think of a better way to build a diagram that's "Idiot proof", but it's dangerous. I could see someone (That shouldn't be wiring a panel anyway) blindly connecting a hot wire to another hot wire on a 2 pole contactor because the numbers matched the drawing.

I think the ability to read a schematic of a switch, and properly translate that to where to screw a wire into a real device is critical before anyone should even think about attempting a build with this kind of current..

You bring up a good point and one that I've been labouring over for months: Am I opening up a can of worms here? How idiot proof do I want to make this? If it's truly so straightforward to follow that someone with absolutely no knowledge or respect for electricity can built it, is that a good thing? I think not.

Kal
 
I agree Kal,

And while you literally inspired me to build my own (Your pic of the control panel was my wallpaper for a couple months ;) ) AND your documentation is as beautiful as it is accurate, I might draw the line at publishing anything BUT a real schematic. There really is no other way to present 100% detail on how your system is wired.

That, and a clear disclaimer that without the exact same part numbers, in the exact same configuration, none if it is useful for any more than a guide. And then there may be errors in the presented documentation.

I doubt anyone here would build to your specs, then go after you if they jacked something up. But you're publishing this to the vast interwebz... That's a scary place where you can find sheep in ba-a-ad positions, Brett Farve's wang, and thousands of posts on other forums made by "Electrical genius" type people...

Edit:
I want to reiterate how incredibly cool your build is! And the documentation is going to be a close reference as I build mine. :mug:
 
Good point. I do say (and link) earlier to purchase a key switch with one normally open contactor. I think what I'll do is remove the 3 and 4 labels. There are only 2 connection points on a single contactor switch so there's no reason to label them. I'll just leave the "NO contact block text" below.



You bring up a good point and one that I've been labouring over for months: Am I opening up a can of worms here? How idiot proof do I want to make this? If it's truly so straightforward to follow that someone with absolutely no knowledge or respect for electricity can built it, is that a good thing? I think not.

Kal

Kal,

I'm fairly comfortable with electrical concepts, but learned a ton during my build.

When I built my panel, I asked for input and advise. CodeRage spent hours, reviewing my work, asking questions, and making suggestions. I'd bet he could have drawn the wiring diagram in a tenth the time he spent "teaching" me how to do it. In the end, I am VERY grateful that he did.
I now understand EVERY wire and connection in my panel. There is not a single connection point that is there just because "that's the way the picture looked". The real benefit is that if/when something in my panel "gives up the smoke", I'll be able to understand how to troubleshoot it.

I really appreciate all the hard work you have put into sharing your design and ideas with others.

Personally, I don't think you can make a project this complicated idiot proof.

Ed
 
Am I opening up a can of worms here? How idiot proof do I want to make this?

In order to become proficient in understanding electric brewing, I am borrowing some books on home wiring and basic electrical theory. I sure as heck hope that no one would just wing it, but I've seen a few pretty frightening setups so far so I know that people are.

I hate to say it, but the first 'I burned my house down with electric brewing' thread cannot be too far off.

If I can't read schematics, then I need to teach myself how to do it--or enlist someone to help.

I think you should put some disclaimer stuff on your control panel page and warn people to leave this part to the pros, etc. The truth is, the HBT world can benefit from your work--but you wouldn't want someone thinking they can just attach wire a to wire b and make a setup. Not to mention the myriad questions you'll get when someone's switch doesn't match your diagram to a 'T' I can see all the 'Help me Kal!!!' threads now. :)

I guess what I am saying is, you can idiot proof anything...but the idiot.
 
Excellent documentation. I'd have to agree with some of the others. I think it's great to explain how each component works and provide tips but providing idiot proof schematics is a line I would not cross. Like someone else said, if they need schematics provided to them, they aren't competent yet.
 
Thanks for the comments guys.

I think I'll still show wiring but I'll make sure it's somewhat generic so that people have to think.

Having pictures I think will be useful when I explain the basic concepts on how the circuits work. People can then refer to the diagrams.

I updated the original diagram:

power.jpg


I've also been working on two others:

ground.jpg


elements.jpg


Remember that these diagrams will be 'talking points' to my text. My text will explain generally how it works. Someone should feel confident that they understand the theory and then be able to wire it up themselves even without the picture. The picture will serve to illustrate my reasoning.

Kal
 
A: Love the XKCD schematic!

B: what are you using to 'draw' your schematics that you're posting? I'm starting my build and I'm using Vector Works. Something a little quicker than CAD might make it easier.

I dig your panel as well. Nice writeup.

B
 
B: what are you using to 'draw' your schematics that you're posting? I'm starting my build and I'm using Vector Works. Something a little quicker than CAD might make it easier.
Microsoft Visio 2007. Likely not the easiest way but it works.

Kal
 
Kal I think those diagrams look great, they will be a perfect addition to a schematic. I like how you are breaking it down into logical areas. If you show people your illustrations and a schematic I think they will be able compare it to the schematic and be able to modify the design if they want to suit their needs.

So in the end I wouldn't worry about people understanding because this is a good way to teach them. I can't wait for this to come out!
 
This is just awesome!!!

Even though Im not 100% electrically inclined, I do have an understanding, appreciation and respect for both electricity and the amount of time that Kal is putting into this.

I am very mechanically inclined, so these straightforward schematics to me are just perfect! Even with the help of my brother in law who is an electrical engineer, most schematics become a little too overwhelming for me and there is no way that I would attempt to play with electricity if Im not 100% in the know.

I guess what Im trying to say is Thank You for the direction that you are taking, it sure is helping me in the construction of my electric brewery! :mug:
 
Looks good!

One note:
Step 11 para 2 - It's impossible with a PID and SSR to "Turn down" an element. It's duty cycle control that makes the apparent power less than 100%. So even with 2 PIDs set for 10% power, if both trigger at the same time, you have a 200% load.

It's irrelevant due to your selector switch, but should be fixed in the description...
 
Looks good!

One note:
Step 11 para 2 - It's impossible with a PID and SSR to "Turn down" an element. It's duty cycle control that makes the apparent power less than 100%. So even with 2 PIDs set for 10% power, if both trigger at the same time, you have a 200% load.

It's irrelevant due to your selector switch, but should be fixed in the description...

I never said "turn down" an element. Read it again. I said "turn down the temperature on one PID controller to shut one element off before turning on the other one."

My first 2-3 paragraphs deal exactly with the fact that two elements running (even at 10% duty cycle each) will still draw 23A x 2 which is beyond what is allowed on my setup.

If it only took you 15 mins to get to Step 11, you're reading too fast... ;)

Kal
 
I never said "turn down" an element. Read it again. I said "turn down the temperature on one PID controller to shut one element off before turning on the other one."

My first 2-3 paragraphs deal exactly with the fact that two elements running (even at 10% duty cycle each) will still draw 23A x 2 which is beyond what is allowed on my setup.

If it only took you 15 mins to get to Step 11, you're reading too fast... ;)

Kal

Quite true!

I yield.
 
Wow that is detailed! It probably would have taken you far less time than writing it up if you would have just come out to my place and built the enclosure for me already! :p
 
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