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Old 01-16-2007, 06:10 PM   #11
Uncle Argyle
 
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Thanks for all the advice, I am in the planning stages now and I making some preliminary drawings. Once I move along further I will post my progress with some pictures.

Thanks for all the help,

Mike.

 
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:25 PM   #12
Fiery Sword
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Argyle
Thanks for all the advice, I am in the planning stages now and I making some preliminary drawings. Once I move along further I will post my progress with some pictures.
Definitely do keep us posted, man. I'm a few pic's short of pulling the trigger on this project myself. If I see yours I might get jealous and just do it!!

 
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Old 01-16-2007, 08:13 PM   #13
runhard
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Hey Uncle Argyle,
If you built the cold box yourself, the local big box shops Home Crapot and Lower Quality didn't have the 2 inch extruded polystyrene. I called a couple of insulation places and located the 2" stuff for about $25/sheet. One sheet was just enough for a 6.5 gallon fermenter and 6-1 gallon jugs of ice if that gives any idea of what mileage you can get from a single sheet. The 2" stuff is fairly durable and very easy to work with but I do like the idea of using 1/4 plywood for greater integrity. In my flippin' hot as hades garage in central Texas, the box would maintain a temp in the mid 60's for 2-3 days between ice changes. I imagine with a little 1.7-2.0 cu. ft. refrigerator the temp would be easily maintained at what you want. Good luck.

 
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Old 01-17-2007, 02:47 AM   #14
mcody2005
 
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this thread has been tuning the gears in my head for days. Im gonna go down the the local estate sale flee market on friday and see if i can pick up a small fride with good guts. they usually have a lot crap like this for aroud 15 buck or so. the "quick and dirty" cooler i just built to lager my beer may be going into the dumpster...

 
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Old 01-18-2007, 03:19 AM   #15
Uncle Argyle
 
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It's funny that you mention Home depot not having that type of insulation. I went to their website and couldn't find insulation of any kind...

I am going to have to look around locally and see if I can track down that 2" foam board.

I will keep you all posted. Thanks for the advice.

 
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Old 01-18-2007, 03:40 AM   #16
John Beere
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When I built my walk-in cooler, I chose a 3/4" R5 foam board over the thicker 2" R7.8 board. You can stack it to 4 layers for R20 in 3" thickness where the other board is only going to give you R15.6 in 4". Also, don't skimp on insulating the floor as cold decends.

 
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:40 PM   #17
Uncle Argyle
 
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The cold box (the cooling area attached to the fridge and not the entire external dimensions of the kegerator) that I am thinking about is only going to be 6 cu ft. with the internal dimensions about 14"D x 24"W x 30"H. This gives about 2" space between the kegs for circulation and keeps space to a minimum.

My questions are...is this too little space? Doesn't seem it would be, given the internal dimensions of a sanyo refigerator.

Also, given this size...would I need to have 3" to 4" of insulation? I am trying to keep the external dimensions as small as possible.

Thanks again.

OK, I stopped at Home Depot for kicks and found the following
1 7/8" R12.2
1" R6.5
2" R10
1 1/2" R7.5
3/4" R4

Keeping mind that I want to keep external dimensions to a minimum, would 4 sheets of 3/4" R4 be my best bet? That would be R16 at 3 " and is the most cost effcient to purchase as well. Is there an R value that I should be shooting for?


 
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:22 PM   #18
mcody2005
 
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I think that 4 sheets woul be overkillfor your small project. it makes more cense on a large walk in type for energy saving$. r-10 should be more than enough on a small box like yours. spend the extra time and dough thinking about how to get a good air tight seal between the box and the door because this area will be much more penetrable from outside heat than the rest of your box.


 
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Old 01-19-2007, 12:01 AM   #19
John Beere
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcody2005
I think that 4 sheets woul be overkillfor your small project. it makes more cense on a large walk in type for energy saving$. r-10 should be more than enough on a small box like yours. spend the extra time and dough thinking about how to get a good air tight seal between the box and the door because this area will be much more penetrable from outside heat than the rest of your box.
I was more pointing out that layering the thinner higher R-value board can you more insulation is less thickness... I don't know his planned R-value, but the higher the better, obviously.

 
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Old 01-29-2007, 08:06 PM   #20
Uncle Argyle
 
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I have been using a freeware 3D program (Wings 3D) to help plan the design for mini-coldbox. I hope these images show up...first time posting pics.

The cube in the pics is a 1.7 cu ft. dorm fridge.
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