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Old 01-29-2011, 05:41 PM   #11
HH60gunner
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Mar 2010
Tucson, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aehernandez View Post
Thinking of building this this weekend and wondering--now that I've resurrected this thread--how the MLT actually worked. What can you report back, gunner?

It's worked great.... Haven't had a single problem with it yet.



 
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:58 PM   #12
marquette048
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Jan 2012
Fairfax, VT
Posts: 47

Did you go with a fully threaded nipple, or a partially threaded nipple? I like the design and I'm planning on converting the same cooler this weekend. Thanks!



 
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:03 AM   #13
HH60gunner
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Mar 2010
Tucson, AZ
Posts: 387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marquette048 View Post
Did you go with a fully threaded nipple, or a partially threaded nipple? I like the design and I'm planning on converting the same cooler this weekend. Thanks!
I used a partially threaded nipple.

 
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:47 AM   #14
Schnitzengiggle
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Feb 2009
Tucson, AZ
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Suggestion: Replace that tiny 1/2" braid with a 3/4" water heater supply braid.
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:39 PM   #15
OatStraw
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Aug 2011
Bartlesville, OK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnitzengiggle View Post
Suggestion: Replace that tiny 1/2" braid with a 3/4" water heater supply braid.
I have this same build but used the 1/2" braid. Have you noticed any increase in efficiency or anything significant from the 3/4" supply braid? If so I might switch mine out.

 
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:48 PM   #16
lonepalm
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
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Dec 2010
Raleigh, NC
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I used this same cooler, but built manifold for it. I have a kettle screen that may work better once this is included in the EHERMS setup, not sure

 
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Old 02-02-2012, 05:31 PM   #17
Schnitzengiggle
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Feb 2009
Tucson, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OatStraw View Post
I have this same build but used the 1/2" braid. Have you noticed any increase in efficiency or anything significant from the 3/4" supply braid? If so I might switch mine out.
I went straight to the 3/4" so I have no efficiency comparison with the 1/2", but what I realized just by looking at the two, is the 3/4" braid has a much thicker wire mesh. So increased strength was what I was looking for, I didn't want my braid to crush under 20-25lbs of grain in the mash.

Until my very last brewday I hadn't had any problems with a slow or stuck runoff. For whatever reason I had to keep blowing into the runoff hose to keep unclogging it. I have a feeling that the pump was pulling too hard with the thinner mash I was using. Plus I overshot my temps that day too, it was a mess of errors.

FWIW, lots went wrong that day though, my hydrometer broke when sampling my 3 runoff, I mean it cracked in the cylinder when I spun it. Not only could I not calculate my pre-boil with the 3 runoff numbers because I failed to get an accurate 3rd, but I couldn't tell what my OG was! Anyhow, the beer tastes great, but that's about all I can tell you about it.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:09 PM   #18
OatStraw
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Aug 2011
Bartlesville, OK
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Well a broken hydrometer is what you get with a name like Broken Glass Brewery I guess.

 
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Old 02-03-2012, 12:27 AM   #19
marquette048
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Jan 2012
Fairfax, VT
Posts: 47

Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnitzengiggle View Post
Suggestion: Replace that tiny 1/2" braid with a 3/4" water heater supply braid.
Is the 3/4" water heater braid the actual size of the braid, or the fittings? For instance, if using the water heater braid, what size nipple is needed to attach it to?

 
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:09 AM   #20
Schnitzengiggle
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Feb 2009
Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,558
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I have the exact same cooler as the OP. My ball valve is connected via a short nipple, and on the inside of the MLT, I have a 1/2" SS coupler that I simply put the braid over, and secure with a SS clamp.

So, ball valve > nipple > coupler > braid (slips over the coupler) w/clamp. Of course there are washers and o-rings between, but you get the gist of it.

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