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Old 08-06-2010, 02:03 PM   #31
Brewmoor
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I think you will be fine with the 1/4hp motor. That is the size I went with and that thing is a monster. Once it is geared down it will have plenty of power. I have seen 1/8 hp capacitor start motors work well. I think the key is getting that thing started. Getting a Capacitor start motor will help get full hopper moving with that little extra umph at the start.

The 1/3 HP motor that ubermick posted would be a great motor too.

Both of those motors spin at 1725 rpm which is the same speed I have from mine. I went with 10" pully for the mill and 2 1/4" on the motor. That works out to roughly about 350 rpm about a 5 to 1 reduction. I got my sheaves from McMaster Carr. I can give you part numbers if you want.


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Old 08-06-2010, 03:16 PM   #32
ubermick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanGC View Post
But by slowing down the RPMs (pulleys, wheels, etc), doesn't this increase your torque?
As Cat mentioned, it would give you an increase in torque, but the original motor in question (the 177RPM gearmotor from Surplus Direct) wouldn't be using pulleys, since it's right at the RPMs you want already. Gearing it down would increase the torque, but make it run ooooooh sooooo slooooooowlyyyy....

Brewmoor's probably right, the 1/4hp would be enough. Everyone and their uncle told me I needed a 1/2hp, but I went 1/3, and it runs my Monster Mill MM3 without a problem. The only issue you'd have is starting a lower power motor with the hopper full. (Which is why you'd want capacitor start in the first place, I'm thinking) I'm running a 12" sheave on my mill and a 1.5" one on my motor, giving me somewhere around the 200 RPM that I wanted, I got mine from Drillspot (the retail version of Grainger) mainly because I couldn't seem to find the 12" one with a 1/2" bore on McMaster's site. (I could only find a 10", and I had a bug up my arse about getting the speed under 200)



 
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Old 08-06-2010, 10:20 PM   #33
SeanGC
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I won the 1/4, and I plan on getting the rpms to at most 300. I'm also going to grab the barebones malt mill.

You guys have helped me so much. and I appreciate all the help I've received from all of you.

If you wouldn't mind showing me the part numbers, that'd be great. I have a few hardware stores around me that sell electric motor accessories (belts, pullys, etc) but everyone speaks very highly of McMaster's.


 
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Old 08-07-2010, 06:54 AM   #34
ubermick
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If you want to keep the RPMs under 300, I'd suggest a 2" sheave for the motor, and a 12" one for the mill. (Both of which will actually be more like 1.55 and 11.55 when you take into account the pitch)

From Drillspot (since like I said, I couldn't find the 12" sheave on MMC) the parts you'd need are...

2" OD with a 1/2" bore: 3X895
12" OD with a 1/2" bore: 3X938 (verify that the maltmill has a 1/2" shaft - I couldn't see that on their site, but I did find a maltmill build here where the guy does use that exact shaft.)

FWIW, those are the same sheaves I have on my setup, and it chewed through 22lbs of grain today in about 3 minutes!

 
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Old 08-07-2010, 01:17 PM   #35
Brewmoor
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The Malt Mill does not come with a 1/2" shaft. It is smaller. When you order, tell them you are motorizing the mill and you would like bushings for a 1/2"sheave. They will send you brass bushing that will slide into the sheave. It took a bit of modification to get mine fit correctly but it works great. I had to cut one of the bushing down a bit with a dremel so the set screw would touch the flat spot on the shaft. I just got mine yesterday in the mail and put it all together.
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Old 08-25-2010, 08:34 PM   #36
SeanGC
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Sorry for reviving an old thread lol.

Alright so, I purchased a http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270615440544&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_3075wt_1139 from ebay in great condition. Now, my father has experience with electrical work, so I relied on his contributions to help me get the motor running.

However, he's been pretty held up with other projects so I figured i'd try to atleast prepare some of the hardware for him on the backend when he becomes more available.

The wiring diagram provided by Dayton seems pretty simple enough. Red, Black, Ground. CW and CCW rotation when switching black and red (to my understanding)

With that said, what do I need to get this thing running besides the wires?



 
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