Can you Brew It recipe for Firestone Walker Union Jack

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Hey Lenny, how are you managing the hop additions?

I'm not going to use a secondary so I'm figuring I'll wait till the gravity gets good and low, then add all 4 oz at once and let set for 7 -10 days.

Cold crash and transfer to keg.
 
I'm trying to replicate this one as close as possible so I'm gonna use the 2 dose dry hop that Matt talks about in the interview. I'm going to add the first Cascade and Centennial addition in the primary for 3 days, rack to the secondary, and then add the Cascade, Centennial, Simcoe, Amarillo addition and leave it on that for a week to 10 days depending on my schedule. I've never done a double dry hop so I'm curious to see if it makes a significant impact. I lost a lot of volume through my blowoff unfortunately, they need to make a 6.5 gal better bottle. 6 gallons is too small, but thats a debate for another day.
 
Wish I would have popped over to Firestone's website pre-brewing:

The newest member of the Firestone family, Union Jack is the aggressive IPA that you’ve been searching for. Citrus, pineapple, and a full chewy malt profile finish clean on your palate. Over 70 IBUs and 7.5% alcohol by volume, Union Jack won’t have any problem competing with the big India Pale Ales. A beer true to its origins; deeply hopped and bolstered for a long voyage.

STYLE:
American IPA
Alcohol By Volume- 7.5%
Color - 8L (Pale)
IBU- 72 (High)
FERMENTATION:
100% Stainless Steel Fermentation

MALTS:
Premium Two-Row (Metcalf & Kendall varieties)
Munich
Cara Pils
Simpson’s Light Crystal
HOPS: (4 lbs/BBL)
Bittering - Warrior, Simcoe
Late Kettle - Cascade, Centennial
Dry Hops - Amarillo, Cascade, Centennial, Chinook, Simcoe


That's some great information. They basically tell you how to make the beer.


Should have went lower on the IBUs (mine's ~82) and I was too darn efficient; my current ABV is 8.2

I may cold crash the fermenter, as the beer tastes great and may be too dry if I let the yeast continue (I'm at 1.015).

Considering pushing it to a keg and letting it mellow for a month before dry hopping @ around 50ish degrees for a few weeks. Then cold crashing and tapping.

Also, I have Chinook and may add 0.50 oz to the dry hop addition.
 
Laga, what was your final gravity for this. Just checked mine and im at 1.016. Pretty happy with that, might drop another point or two over the next couple days. The sample tasted great. Activity has nearly stopped, gonna give the fermenter a little swirl and see what happens.
 
I cold crashed @ 1.015. I didn't want a 8.2 ABV beer to be too dry.

Now I have to decide how best to dry hop.

Leaning towards one 4 oz addition left in my cold storage (approximately 50 degrees) for 1 month. Then transfer to a keg with gelatin, crash and serve.
 
I kegged this last night and the beer came out amazing. The hop flavor is outrageous and it is a very drinkable 7.4% beer. I can't wait for it to carb and to create some space in the kegerator for it!
 
Well this is my first post on HBT. I've lurked for a while and got a bunch of great information from the site. I took my first taste of my Union Jack Clone last night and it was amazing. The hop aroma and flavor is really pronounced! It was my first brew on my new 3 vessel, 3 burner single tier set up. Had some efficiency issues, my OG was low at 1.062. Fermentation went great, I just used two WLP 002 vials, no starter, ended up at 1.012. I dropped the first dry hop in the secondary, and the second dose in the corny, and left them in there.
 
I'm trying this tomorrow and just realized I don't have the Caramalt. Can I substitute Crystal 10 or 20?
 
Just leave it out. It's only 1.3% of the grain bill. Matt Brynildson said he only uses it for color anyway.
 
You won't notice a difference using C-10 or 20. There's so much hop character in this beer it overpowers any flavor contributions of the small amount of crystal. This recipe is awesome by the way. Anyone who likes super hoppy beers should give this one a try.
 
IMO its not critical. This beer is dominated by the cascade/centennial combination of the boil and double dry hop. The simcoe adds a little hop complexity but will not change the beer if it isn't used. I'd just up the cascade, centennial, and amarillo dry hops accordingly to make up for the loss of simcoe.
 
Ok thanks.

It seems like many of you are having attenuation problems with this one. I guess that means I can safely repitch 1056 and still get a balanced beer.
 
I stuck to the 145 mash and WLP002 and it attenuated fined. From 1.071 to 1.010. If you use 1056 mash higher.
 
I just kegged a version of this on the same base grain bill and mashing schedule, but different hops. Took it from 1.063 -> 1.011 with WLP002. Granted, I didn't heat my first runnings right away, so it may have been a bit too fermentable.
 
Ok Ive ordered the stuff for this recipe, will be brewing it next weekend.

But I started summing the dry hop additions up, 176 grams for 6 gallons, thats crazy, can this really be true???!!!
 
Ok Ive ordered the stuff for this recipe, will be brewing it next weekend.

But I started summing the dry hop additions up, 176 grams for 6 gallons, thats crazy, can this really be true???!!!

Yep! I am dry hopping mine in primary right now. 3 oz in primary and 3 oz in secondary. I figure using whole cones (as I am) I will lose about a gallon to the hops. I converted to OZ, and rounded down a bit 1 oz = 28 grams 6oz=168 grams.

It is a buttload of dry hops for sure:)

BTW, I got a response from Tasty over on Brewing Network, and he confirmed that he used WLP 002, but that WLP 007 is also a good choice. I used 007. I hit 1.012 in 4 days with 007 using the 145/155 mash schedule.
 
Yep! I am dry hopping mine in primary right now. 3 oz in primary and 3 oz in secondary. I figure using whole cones (as I am) I will lose about a gallon to the hops. I converted to OZ, and rounded down a bit 1 oz = 28 grams 6oz=168 grams.

It is a buttload of dry hops for sure:)

BTW, I got a response from Tasty over on Brewing Network, and he confirmed that he used WLP 002, but that WLP 007 is also a good choice. I used 007. I hit 1.012 in 4 days with 007 using the 145/155 mash schedule.

I think that if you do use 007, you should increase the mash temp a few degrees. That has just been the experience that I have had...007 at low mash temps will attenuate like crazy!

Eric
 
I think that if you do use 007, you should increase the mash temp a few degrees. That has just been the experience that I have had...007 at low mash temps will attenuate like crazy!

Eric


I mis-read my hydrometer, I did hit 1.016-exactly the target using 007 (1098). This beer is looking pretty cloned, just need to go buy a FWUJIPA and compare.
I did expect a lower gravity with 007, but maybe my mash temp was higher than I thought.
 
OK I have 12 gallons of a fluid steadily dropping in gravity...

Any advice regarding dumping the dry hops all in at once?

Is there anything speaking against it?
 
OK I have 12 gallons of a fluid steadily dropping in gravity...

Any advice regarding dumping the dry hops all in at once?

Is there anything speaking against it?

FWIW I dumped mine in all at once...

Just finished a keg of this stuff. Fantastic beer! I used Notty (repitched on most of a cake from a previous IPA). Finished up at 1013. I can't say it was too dry, the hop flavour didn't help make it apparent if it was.

I'll be trying this one again with some 1098 (no WL in my neck of the woods). I highly suggest this brew. Guaranteed to fight it out with my usual IPA for the IPA tap on the 'fridge.
 
How was it like racking this beer with all the dry hops in it?

I had quite some whole-hops-clogging-my-hose-trouble racking it into the fermenters after the boil.
 
OK I have 12 gallons of a fluid steadily dropping in gravity...

Any advice regarding dumping the dry hops all in at once?

Is there anything speaking against it?

According to a Vinnie C. at Russian River Brewing, doing 2 separate dry hop additions gives better aroma. I am not sure the exact explanation, but for me using whole cones it does allow better contact in the fermenter to use 2 doses.

My version with 1098 has an awesome aroma. I did the 3 oz Cascade/Cent. primary dry hop for 5 days, then racked to a corny keg and put he other half in a bag in the keg for 5 more days, removed the bag and carbed it up. Great beer!
 
Brewed this yesterday. Added a .25oz Simcoe at 30min since I am low on cascade and want the dry hop to be correct. Looked & tasted fantastic prior to pitching yeast but bitterness did not seem to be there. Had volume trouble with this amount of hops and had 5 gal after the boil. 24hrs at 63, but going to move it to 66 at 36hrs. Pitched 1.6L of starter WPL001. I have had luck with 001 but if it does not turn out I will go with 002. This was a fun beer to make.

***Update***

Took FG reading on 12/9 and was 5.65P. Tasted fruity but light on the bitterness. Not as dry but 002 will be used on the next batch. Dry hop is measured out and ready.
 
Brewed the Union Jack per the CYBI recipe and it was definitely a great beer. We entered it in our first beer competition and placed 4th in the best of show round. I can't wait to brew up another batch and get it on tap again.
 
Looking for ideas to make Double Jack from this recipe. Has anyone experimented with more grain and same water to brew the double IPA?
 
i'm also interested in trying to make something like double jack in the future.

the BN interviewed matt b. recently and he talked about double jack. check out the session 02-20-11 "bottling and sour beer". the interview is from ~1:46:00-1:52:00. the keypoints are probably already out there, but:

-21 plato (1.087)
-9.5% abv -> FG ~1.015
-triple dry hopped
-shooting for 100 real IBU, but probably 80-90 in reality, and ~300 calculated/on paper

-another interesting point is when he talks about the carapils. it sounds like they dropped it to dry it out a little (edit: the FW website reflects this as well)
 
The interview with Matt that I saw, he describes the recipe as the same as Union Jack however the yield was 35/55s of the Union Jack yield; And dry hopped 4 times with possibly a little different hop schedule.

I reworked the grain bill to reflect the yield ratio as above and recently brewed a batch.
The first runnings we 1.090 which yielded 3 1/3 gallons. My second runnings looked pretty strong compared with normal sparge output. Forgot to take a post boil reading.
Pitched 2 cups of harvested yeast (safale 05) from a recent Pliny batch. My fermentation chamber smells wonderful! Changed the 90 minute addition to 1 oz of Warrior and one of Centennial. Will report back in a month on the results.

Here is my recipe:
BeerSmith Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com
Recipe: FireStone Walker Double Jack IPA
Brewer: Bill
Asst Brewer: Anne
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (35.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 6.50 gal
Estimated OG: 1.092 SG
Estimated Color: 10.0 SRM
Estimated IBU: 90.1 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Boil Time: 90 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
15.08 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 82.26 %
2.00 lb Munich 20L (Briess) (20.0 SRM) Grain 10.91 %
1.00 lb Carapils (Briess) (1.5 SRM) Grain 5.46 %
0.25 lb CaraMalt Smpsons 35L (35.0 SRM) Grain 1.36 %
1.00 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (90 min) Hops 43.0 IBU
0.88 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1.29 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (Dry Hop 6 days) Hops -
1.29 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (Dry Hop 6 days) Hops -
0.88 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
0.41 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
0.41 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] (Dry Hop 3 days) Hops -
1.00 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (90 min) Hops 28.7 IBU
2.03 oz Cascade [5.50 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-SteeHops -
0.51 oz Centennial [10.50 %] (30 min) Hops 11.1 IBU
2.03 oz Centennial [10.00 %] (30 min) (Aroma Hop-Hops -
0.51 oz Cascade [7.00 %] (30 min) Hops 7.4 IBU
1 Pkgs English Ale (White Labs #WLP002) [Starter Yeast-Ale


Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 18.33 lb
----------------------------
Single Infusion, Medium Body
Step Time Name Description Step Temp
60 min Mash In Add 27.49 qt of water at 153.9 F 145.0 F
10 min Step Add 0.00 qt of water at 155.0 F 155.0 F
0 min Mash Out Add 0.00 qt of water at 168.0 F 168.0 F


Notes:
------
Substitute Carastan for the Caramalt if desired

Whirlpool for 30 minutes or let sit 30 minute after flameout.

Pitch at 62-63 and raise to 66 after 24 hours and keep it there the remainder fo the fermentation.

CIBY OG 1070 IBUs 82.7 (rager)

1.55oz Centennial and Cascades dry hop first at least three days. Rack to secondary add rest of dry hops for an additional three or more days.
 
I'd like to brew this but, because of my equipment, dont really want to deal with the two different mash temps. Any suggestions for a good compromise mash temp? 150?
 
I mashed at the recommended 145 (or so, from memory) degree mash temp and then fly sparged with approximately 180 degree water in an effort to raise the grain bed temp. I don't remember the numbers exactly but I think it worked well. The beer finished 4th in the BOS round of a local competition.
 
Double Jack clone:

I tried to elevate my mash using my wort cooler, circulating hot water through the coil. Had some leaks and abandoned that. Sparged with high 190s until mash was 168. Finally added a little more water at the end to get my 6.5 gallons. Drinking my beer now! Fabulous, have a bomber of Double Jack to compare; Will open it soon and compare.

Opened a bomber of Double Jack this weekend to compare. Mine didn't have the sweetness or flavor of the real thing. Not sure if this was all due to using the wrong yeast. Will try again with the WLP002 yeast next time.
 
This is what I've come up with. Any thoughts?

2-Row Malt 14.00 lb
Munich 10L Malt 2.25 lb
Caramel 10L 1.75 lb
Carapils 1.25 lb

Mash @ 148-149F for 60min
Boil for 90min (be sure to account for an extra half hour of evap.)

0.75oz Warrior @ 60min
0.75oz Simcoe @ 60min
1.00oz Cascade @ 30min
1.00oz Centennial @ 30min
1.50oz Cascade @ Flame out
1.50oz Centennial @ Flame out

White Labs WLP001

Dry hop in primary 24 hours after krausen drop, Rack to secondary after 3 days of dry hopping.

Dry hops:
1.00oz Cascade
1.00oz Amarillo
0.50oz Chinook
0.50oz Centennial
0.50oz Simcoe

Per my software, expect:
Preboil 1.077
OG 1.089
FG 1.020
ABV 9.4%
IBU 84
 
I used 15 pounds of 2 row and my first runnings were 1.090. Thinking of adding a little more grain the second time so the post boil O.G is 1.090. The Beersmith recipe says the F.G. Should be 1.029 which would account for it's sweetness.The yeast I believe is key to cloning this beer and the recommendation is wlp002. I used harvested US 05 which finished at 1.012 and made it a little dry. Although the beer is wonderful it's not the same as the real thing. Had a bomber of Double Jack on hand to compare and found it more sweet than mine. let us know your results when you brew it.
 
This is what I've come up with. Any thoughts?

2-Row Malt 14.00 lb
Munich 10L Malt 2.25 lb
Caramel 10L 1.75 lb
Carapils 1.25 lb

Mash @ 148-149F for 60min
Boil for 90min (be sure to account for an extra half hour of evap.)

0.75oz Warrior @ 60min
0.75oz Simcoe @ 60min
1.00oz Cascade @ 30min
1.00oz Centennial @ 30min
1.50oz Cascade @ Flame out
1.50oz Centennial @ Flame out

White Labs WLP001

Dry hop in primary 24 hours after krausen drop, Rack to secondary after 3 days of dry hopping.

Dry hops:
1.00oz Cascade
1.00oz Amarillo
0.50oz Chinook
0.50oz Centennial
0.50oz Simcoe

Per my software, expect:
Preboil 1.077
OG 1.089
FG 1.020
ABV 9.4%
IBU 84

Seems to me that the primary fermentor dry hop would be a waste of hops with all the aromatics being expelled with the CO2. Let us know how it turns out.
 
I have yet to brew this, hopefully next weekend. I've made a couple of changes and I will post my final recipe for this batch when I brew it. Check out post #18 on this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/dry-hop-ipa-64751/index2.html That's where I got the DHing technique from.

Interesting... I'll have to try it out sometime. I have dry hopped at the last few gravity points--have you taken the gravity when the krausen drops? It is probably about the same as what I have done--I just assumed that the yeast were more active in your case.
 
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