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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Brew in a Bag question
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:29 PM   #1
ruggierm1
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Default Brew in a Bag question

Hi folks. Need a little help here. Taking a baby step into All-Grain by making Yoop's Pale Ale. Can anyone take a look at her recipe below and see if I need to make any adjustments. Thanks



Da Yooper's House Pale Ale

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: S-05
Batch Size (Gallons): 5.25
Original Gravity: 1.058
Final Gravity: 1.010
IBU: 43.6
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 12
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14 at 62 degrees
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): dryhopping
Tasting Notes: A balanced APA with malt flavor, and hops flavor, for a nice APA.

palealerecipes.bsm

5 pounds pale malt (I used marris otter)
3 pounds vienna malt
2 pounds Munich malt
1/2 pound crystal 20L
1/2 pound crystal 60L

1 ounce Cascade 60 minutes
.75 ounce cascade 30 minutes
1 ounce Cascade 10 minutes
1/2 ounce cascade 5 minutes
1/2 ounce cascade flameout

1 ounce cascade (dryhop)

I used homegrown cascade for the late hopping additions, so had to guestimate the final IBUs, but used commercial pellet hops for the bittering additions (8% AAU).

Mashed at 154. Fermented at low ale temps (62) for two weeks, then dryhopped for a week.


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Old 07-22-2010, 03:38 PM   #2
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The only potential issue I see is that Yooper seems to have that formulated for 75% efficiency to get to the gravity of 1.058 with that grain bill.

You probably won't get high of an efficiency with brew-in-a-bag on your first try (I think BIABers generally get much lower than this, but I am not certain.)

You might want to use more gain with the assumption that you will get lower than 75%.


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Old 07-22-2010, 03:39 PM   #3
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Only comment is that brew in bag seems to often lead to a drop of about 10% in effeciency from what Ive heard, so could consider upping the malt bill a little to achieve the same gravity, or boil off a little longer.
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Old 07-22-2010, 03:40 PM   #4
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Hi- +1 on the expected efficiency. I might bump the Vienna and Munich back to 1.5 pounds each and up the Maris Otter to 10 pounds, but that's just a personal preference--I'm a big fan of using MO as the backbone of a Pale Ale.

Another preference would be to shift your .75 ounce Cascade addition at 30 minutes to a 1 ounce addition at 15 minutes. You'll get more flavor and close to the same amount of bitterness.

Good luck with the brew!

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Old 07-22-2010, 03:41 PM   #5
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I'm not sure what your question is. Are you asking if it is feasible to BIAB with 11 pounds of grain? That seems like a lot to me - I've done 5 pounds or so, using extract for the rest, but others have done more. Deathbrewer's tutorial is very good.

FWIW (and free advice is worth every penny), if you're going to commit to all-grain, just go ahead and make a proper cooler-tun. It's not that hard.

That looks like a gread recipe btw, I may try it this fall when my Cascades are harvested.

ETA: Wow, people are fast around here! Aren't you supposed to be working or something??
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Old 07-22-2010, 04:30 PM   #6
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I've only gotten less than 75% efficiency with BIAB once (74%), but holding 11lbs of wet grain to sparge is a PITA. I recommend getting a large strainer for the sparge. As long as you hit your temps, stir often, keep the bag loose, split the sparge into at least two, and you should have no problems hitting that efficiency.
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Old 07-22-2010, 04:33 PM   #7
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Indeed, what frazier said.

If you have a big enough pot to stick that giant bag in then just mash in the pot, control the temp with your stovetop/gas and after youve mashed for long enough dump it in in a "bucket in bucket" for the L&S.
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Old 07-22-2010, 04:55 PM   #8
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well I've done about 12 BIAB batches and I get about 74-76% every time and i've gotten 78% once. what i do i grind my grains very fine and then use .65 to .69 X (lb of grain) and that gives me me gal of water to lb of grain. i mash for at least 90min also. Then pull the bag out and I squeeze the grain after it drains most of the way. then ill add more water to the boil to make up for my evaporation rate. if im mashing a large amount of grain as the bag is draining ill heat the extra water to mash temp and then put the grains in again to try to get the most out of them. i hope all this helps, but depending on what size pot you have you shouldn't have a problem with the procedures.
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Old 07-22-2010, 05:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
The only potential issue I see is that Yooper seems to have that formulated for 75% efficiency to get to the gravity of 1.058 with that grain bill.

You probably won't get high of an efficiency with brew-in-a-bag on your first try (I think BIABers generally get much lower than this, but I am not certain.)

You might want to use more gain with the assumption that you will get lower than 75%.
Yeah. I get 70-75% generally.
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Old 07-22-2010, 06:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rexbanner View Post
Yeah. I get 70-75% generally.
I get 80-85% generally, using BiaB with a single batch sparge; if you do the Aussie-style spargeless BiaB then you'll probably get lower eff unless you're grinding the grain yourself (and able to crush it quite fine).

11 pounds is well within the bounds of reasonable, but it can get heavy; having some sort of strong grill or something to put on top of the kettle isn't a bad idea.


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