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Old 06-19-2011, 10:54 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by wildbeers View Post
I used to always rack to secondary and DH loose, but now im hearing guys on BN talk about how it prob does more bad than good due to oxidation concerns. What im wondering is if I DH in the primary and then gently rouse the fermentor every 2 days to maximize hop contact time with the solution, would it be bad to be stirring up the yeast cake on the bottom and all the hops that had carried over from my brewday (i didnt use muslins and my whirlpool failed me so theres a good amount of green mixed in with that yeast cake), or b/c i have so much at the bottom of the primary I should rack and DH instead?
My vote is "neither"! What I mean is, I'd go ahead and dryhop in the primary. But I would NOT rouse the fermenter. Just dryhop. The hops will soak up the wort, and gradually sink. They don't need rousing at all. Leave the trub on the bottom where it belongs.

When I rack to the keg or bottling bucket after a dryhop, I start the siphon in the middle of the fermenter. This avoids any floating hops debris, and avoids the trub layer also. As the level of the beer drops, I lower the siphon and if the beer changes color in the tubing (gets light from sucking up some trub), I back off a bit. This works great, and I do it with both pellet hops and leaf hops. I don't use bags or bolts or anything. I just gently put them in the fermenter as to not splash/aerate the beer.


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Old 11-04-2012, 06:49 AM   #12
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If your brew is down to the correct final gravity numbers. Lower the temps to 38 for 24 hours, then let it raise back up to room temps for another 24 hours. And throw pellet hops in there. Whole hops are a pain, especially if you are using a glass carboy. I usually dry hop for 5 days. Then I drop the temps down to 38 for a good 24 hours again, let it raise up to room temp one more time and bottle. This way you avoid any CO2 lifting your precious dry hops out of the beer. The cold crash will slow the fermentation and it will allow you to dry hop with pellet hops, because you can just cold crash them out again. I have a temperature control unit.


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Old 11-04-2012, 07:03 AM   #13
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There is a lot of belief that the beer being on top of the yeast will eventually create off flavors. I think complicating the matter and racking is a waste of time. Some of the off flavors can be attributed to leaving the beer in the ferment er too long. But in my opinion you have a target FG, and when you hit it, then the initial vigorous fermenting is done. And the beer is ready to do some dry hopping and conditioning. It can condition in the bottle. I work at a brewery, not as a brewer and the head brewer had a beer recently ferment in one day. The beer was ready and served three weeks after that day, and it's a great beer. I doubt anyone on here could create one of the same style better. Of course this guy has been a home brewer all his life and makes some of the best beers I have ever had. One of my friends brews at Firestone, I can ask him how they do there dry hopping if you want.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:05 AM   #14
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I just dry hopped my pale ale tonight. It was in the primary for 2 weeks, I put my hops in the secondary and racked on to them. I'll let it sit for one full week then bottle. I've never used bags when I dry hop. I just swirl the carboy around every once in a while to soak the hops. I have always got a very nice aroma this way, and clean up isn't bad at all. I'll fill the carboy partially with water and swirl it around upside down and the hops drain out. It takes a couple times but it isn't anything time consuming or difficult.
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:34 PM   #15
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Default Dry Hopping in the primary

Instead of using a muslin bag and a nut to dry hop with I use a very large stainless steel tea ball. It holds a ton of hops and sinks with no problem. Of course just make sure you sanitize it before lowering it into you Wort/Beer


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