Pliny the Elder LME recipe

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IPAAAA

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So I saw this...

http://beerdujour.com/Recipes/1Pliny the Elder clone PDF.pdf

But I wanted to do a extract version of it since this is my second time brewing. I came up with this but not sure if it is correct. What does everyone think?

6.15 lbs DME or 8 lbs LME
1 lb 2-row malt
.28 lbs crystal 45
.86 lbs Carapils
1 lb corn sugar
19.5 AAU Chinook (mash) (calculate how much you need based of AAU%)
WLP001 yeast

Steep all grains, corn sugar & calculated amount of chinook hops in 1 gal of 151F water for 45 minutes.

(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 42.9 AAU Warrior (90 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 6.1 AAU Chinook (90 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 12 AAU Simcoe (45 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 14.3 AAU Columbus (30 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 20.5 AAU Centennial (0 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 12 AAU Simcoe (0 min)

Ferment at 68F. Dry hop 2 weeks.

3.25 oz Columbus (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)
1.75 oz Centennial (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)
1.75 oz Simcoe (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)

.25 oz Columbus (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
.75 oz Centennial (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
.75 oz Simcoe (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)

I am unsure about a few things. If the LME amount would be enough and what it means by...19.5 AAU Chinook (mash). Do I just throw the hop pellets in the bag? Let me know how you guys think this looks.
 
Extract already has a good amount of unfermentables, so I would just skip the cara/crystal malt and do just pale extract and sugar. Say 9.5 lbs LME (8 lbs DME) and 1 lb corn sugar. You have to have some extra gravity in there since you'll lose wort volume to all those hops, so I based that on a 5.5 gallon batch. I'd also consider adding some of the extract late to up hop utilization and keep the color light.

It's a great recipe, but a few tips. Strain out as much of the hops before going into the fermenter (they'll just get in the way when you try to rack). Put the dry hops in bags weighted down with sanitized marbles (to keep them submerged and out of the way of racking). You can just add the Chinook at the start of the boil, you need extra IBUs if you are doing a concentrated boil anyway.

Hope that helps
 
Thanks for the response oldsock.

So something like this...?

9.5 lbs LME (8 lbs DME)
1 lb 2-row malt
1 lb corn sugar
WLP001 yeast

Steep all grains, corn sugar in 1 gal of 151F water for 45 minutes.

(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 42.9 AAU Warrior (90 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 25.6 AAU Chinook (90 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 12 AAU Simcoe (45 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 14.3 AAU Columbus (30 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 20.5 AAU Centennial (0 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 12 AAU Simcoe (0 min)

Ferment at 68F. Dry hop 2 weeks.

3.25 oz Columbus (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)
1.75 oz Centennial (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)
1.75 oz Simcoe (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)

.25 oz Columbus (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
.75 oz Centennial (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
.75 oz Simcoe (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)

So not sure if I should keep the 2-row and I just added the chinook total from the steep into the first drop in the boil. (19.5+6.1=25.6 AAU) Is that the correct way to think of it?

What percentage of the LME should I put in at the beginning and how much should I save for the end? Also, is there a specific time to put it in at the end?

The marble trick...will it matter for me since I have a spigot in my bucket?
 
Why are you going to mash 1 lb of 2-row? Just drop the two row and another pound or so of LME.
 
Agreed, no need for the two row, but no need to add extra extract (the extract and sugar should get you to ~1.072).

Otherwise sounds good, fine math on the extra Chinooks in the boil. How big a boil are you doing? I'd try to keep the pre-boil gravity around 1.050-1.060. You can add the rest of the extract with 5-10 min to go.

The hops could still plug the spigot, so I'd still bag them, but it is up to you.
 
Ichthy said:
Why are you going to mash 1 lb of 2-row? Just drop the two row and another pound or so of LME.
Click to expand...

Because I am new to this and don't know what I am doing exactly. :mug: So I don't need to steep any grains in this recipe...guess that is why the sugar is there eh.

Oldsock said:
Agreed, no need for the two row, but no need to add extra extract (the extract and sugar should get you to ~1.072).

Otherwise sounds good, fine math on the extra Chinooks in the boil. How big a boil are you doing? I'd try to keep the pre-boil gravity around 1.050-1.060. You can add the rest of the extract with 5-10 min to go.

The hops could still plug the spigot, so I'd still bag them, but it is up to you.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of doing a 5 gallon boil. Not sure how much I will boil off so maybe start off with 7 gallons. :confused: How much of the 9.5 lbs of extract do you think I should save for the last 5-10 mins?
 
IPAAAA said:
I was thinking of doing a 5 gallon boil. Not sure how much I will boil off so maybe start off with 7 gallons. :confused: How much of the 9.5 lbs of extract do you think I should save for the last 5-10 mins?
Click to expand...

If you are doing a full 5 gallon boil you can add all of the extract at the start if you want. 7 gallons to start seems reasonable, I get about 1 gallon per hour boil off, plus .5 gallons for the hops.

Steeping grains just aren't always necessary. For many beers they just aren't needed when you wouldn't use much besides basemalt in a recipe, I've done a Hefe and a Belgian Pale with just extract. In this case 1 lb of pale malt simply won't add much flavor in a beer this big and hoppy. You really need to mash pale malt anyway, not worth the effort in this case (very worth the effort if you want to do a beer with an unmalted grain or a malt that needs to be mashed).
 
Oldsock said:
If you are doing a full 5 gallon boil you can add all of the extract at the start if you want. 7 gallons to start seems reasonable, I get about 1 gallon per hour boil off, plus .5 gallons for the hops.

Steeping grains just aren't always necessary. For many beers they just aren't needed when you wouldn't use much besides basemalt in a recipe, I've done a Hefe and a Belgian Pale with just extract. In this case 1 lb of pale malt simply won't add much flavor in a beer this big and hoppy. You really need to mash pale malt anyway, not worth the effort in this case (very worth the effort if you want to do a beer with an unmalted grain or a malt that needs to be mashed).
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Well hopefully this turns out ok. You got any suggestions for a good strainer to use when pouring into the fermenter? Btw...you think I should do a secondary in with this setup?

I have so much still to learn it's kinda frustrating so that is why I keep asking so many questions. :(
 
IPAAAA said:
Gotcha. Well hopefully this turns out ok. You got any suggestions for a good strainer to use when pouring into the fermenter? Btw...you think I should do a secondary in with this setup?

I have so much still to learn it's kinda frustrating so that is why I keep asking so many questions. :(
Click to expand...

Better to ask questions than to charge ahead ignoring advice. I use a metal mesh strainer from a cooking store. I pour into my bottling bucket then use the spigot to move the beer to the fermenter. Another option is a nylon paint strainer from Home Depot, they seem to clog up easier though. I'd do a secondary, but be careful racking, oxygen is the sworn enemy of hoppy beers (no splashing!).
 
Oldsock said:
Better to ask questions than to charge ahead ignoring advice. I use a metal mesh strainer from a cooking store. I pour into my bottling bucket then use the spigot to move the beer to the fermenter. Another option is a nylon paint strainer from Home Depot, they seem to clog up easier though. I'd do a secondary, but be careful racking, oxygen is the sworn enemy of hoppy beers (no splashing!).
Click to expand...

Was reading your blog and saw that nylon strainer. I will have to look for a big enough strainer from a store here.

Ya I have read all about oxidation. As long as I don't splash I should be ok right?
 
IPAAAA said:
Ya I have read all about oxidation. As long as I don't splash I should be ok right?
Click to expand...

You'll be alright, but ideally you'd have a kegging system and be able to flush everything that touched your beer after the start of fermentation with CO2 (tubing, racking cane, fermenters etc...). It also helps to get the beer cold as soon as its carbonated, which will help to preserve the hop flavor/aroma.
 
IPAAAA said:
Was reading your blog and saw that nylon strainer. I will have to look for a big enough strainer from a store here.

Ya I have read all about oxidation. As long as I don't splash I should be ok right?
Click to expand...

RE the strainer, if you cant get one, let your beer sit in the boil kettle for 20-30 with a sanitized lid on it while you are washing up some gear. You could then rack the beer with your racking cane into the fermenter. If all the break and hop material settled to the bottom you can leave most (but not all) of it behind.

Sorry if I sounded snarky in my previous reply. Just wasn't sure if left out an odd malt in your recipe that needed to be mashed.

Happy brewing!!:mug:
 
Ichthy said:
RE the strainer, if you cant get one, let your beer sit in the boil kettle for 20-30 with a sanitized lid on it while you are washing up some gear. You could then rack the beer with your racking cane into the fermenter. If all the break and hop material settled to the bottom you can leave most (but not all) of it behind.

Sorry if I sounded snarky in my previous reply. Just wasn't sure if left out an odd malt in your recipe that needed to be mashed.

Happy brewing!!:mug:
Click to expand...

All good. Thanks for the advise. Wouldn't I want to cool it faster then 20-30 mins? I guess I could do that and try. This time I just left everything in there so we will see how bad I get clogged up.
 
Oldsock said:
You'll be alright, but ideally you'd have a kegging system and be able to flush everything that touched your beer after the start of fermentation with CO2 (tubing, racking cane, fermenters etc...). It also helps to get the beer cold as soon as its carbonated, which will help to preserve the hop flavor/aroma.
Click to expand...

So when you keg beer it won't oxidize anything? I don't know how the keg system works but I hopefully will. So once it has been sitting in bottles for a few weeks you want to put it in the fridge?
 
IPAAAA said:
So when you keg beer it won't oxidize anything? I don't know how the keg system works but I hopefully will. So once it has been sitting in bottles for a few weeks you want to put it in the fridge?
Click to expand...

With a keg you can pump CO2 into things to chase out most of the air before racking. That said, unless you do things under pressure there will always be some oxygen that finds its way into the beer.

Yep, get as much of the beer as you can into the fridge as soon as its carbed and keep it there. Really hoppy beers like this last 2-3 months at most, so drink early and drink often.
 
Oldsock said:
With a keg you can pump CO2 into things to chase out most of the air before racking. That said, unless you do things under pressure there will always be some oxygen that finds its way into the beer.

Yep, get as much of the beer as you can into the fridge as soon as its carbed and keep it there. Really hoppy beers like this last 2-3 months at most, so drink early and drink often.
Click to expand...

Good to know. This beer won't even last a month so I should be ok. :D
 
IPAAAA said:
All good. Thanks for the advise. Wouldn't I want to cool it faster then 20-30 mins? I guess I could do that and try. This time I just left everything in there so we will see how bad I get clogged up.
Click to expand...

Yes you want it to already be cooled before letting it sit there. I cool my wort with my immersion chiller, then let it sit in the boil kettle for 20-30min while i'm cleaning up misc equipment and sanitizing my fermenter. The 20-30 min just allows all of the break material and hops to settle to the bottom of the kettle so you don't put all of the material in your fermenter.
You'll be fine either way though.
 
So once it is cool (below 80) I can let it sit without having to throw the yeast into it right away? Only time it is good to have air is when you throw the air in and shake it all up right?
 
Yes you can let it sit for a little while prior to pitching. Just be sure the kettle is covered with a sanitized lid.

And yes, you should aerate your wort prior to pitching the yeast. The yeast use O2 to reproduce so that they are sufficient in number to properly ferment your beer. Once fermentation begins you do not want to introduce any more air into the beer. Also, the great thing about using a strainer, per OldSock's suggestion, is that it helps to aerate the wort as you transfer.
 
Ichthy said:
Yes you can let it sit for a little while prior to pitching. Just be sure the kettle is covered with a sanitized lid.

And yes, you should aerate your wort prior to pitching the yeast. The yeast use O2 to reproduce so that they are sufficient in number to properly ferment your beer. Once fermentation begins you do not want to introduce any more air into the beer. Also, the great thing about using a strainer, per OldSock's suggestion, is that it helps to aerate the wort as you transfer.
Click to expand...

Agreed, and to add, make sure to cool it down close to target fermentation temperature before pitching. During the summer with warm ground water I often have to put the carboy in the fridge for a few hours to chill it down the rest of the way before aerating and pitching.
 
I bottled this 3 weeks ago and it is fantastic! Best beer I've brewed so far. I just placed an order at hopsdirect so I can brew many more of these in the weeks to come. :D
 
Ichthy said:
Yes you can let it sit for a little while prior to pitching. Just be sure the kettle is covered with a sanitized lid.

And yes, you should aerate your wort prior to pitching the yeast. The yeast use O2 to reproduce so that they are sufficient in number to properly ferment your beer. Once fermentation begins you do not want to introduce any more air into the beer. Also, the great thing about using a strainer, per OldSock's suggestion, is that it helps to aerate the wort as you transfer.
Click to expand...

Didn't know that. Awesome. So it doesn't hurt the beer if you don't pitch the yeast quickly. You just want to get the wort cooled asap.

Oldsock said:
Agreed, and to add, make sure to cool it down close to target fermentation temperature before pitching. During the summer with warm ground water I often have to put the carboy in the fridge for a few hours to chill it down the rest of the way before aerating and pitching.
Click to expand...

Ok. I got mine down to 80 I think but fermented at around 65 so hopefully it turns out ok.

opteek said:
I bottled this 3 weeks ago and it is fantastic! Best beer I've brewed so far. I just placed an order at hopsdirect so I can brew many more of these in the weeks to come. :D
Click to expand...

You do the all grain recipe or extract?
 
IPAAAA said:
So I saw this...

http://beerdujour.com/Recipes/1Pliny the Elder clone PDF.pdf

But I wanted to do a extract version of it since this is my second time brewing. I came up with this but not sure if it is correct. What does everyone think?

6.15 lbs DME or 8 lbs LME
1 lb 2-row malt
.28 lbs crystal 45
.86 lbs Carapils
1 lb corn sugar
19.5 AAU Chinook (mash) (calculate how much you need based of AAU%)
WLP001 yeast

Steep all grains, corn sugar & calculated amount of chinook hops in 1 gal of 151F water for 45 minutes.

(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 42.9 AAU Warrior (90 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 6.1 AAU Chinook (90 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 12 AAU Simcoe (45 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 14.3 AAU Columbus (30 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 20.5 AAU Centennial (0 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 12 AAU Simcoe (0 min)

Ferment at 68F. Dry hop 2 weeks.

3.25 oz Columbus (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)
1.75 oz Centennial (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)
1.75 oz Simcoe (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)

.25 oz Columbus (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
.75 oz Centennial (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
.75 oz Simcoe (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)

I am unsure about a few things. If the LME amount would be enough and what it means by...19.5 AAU Chinook (mash). Do I just throw the hop pellets in the bag? Let me know how you guys think this looks.
Click to expand...


Yo Rob,

just plugged some numbers....i would use extra light dme but don't think they have it at steinfillers i was there today. add 1/2 lb C40 to steep will get you to the right SRM and will add some body and flavor. add hops per the pdf you should be good to go. :rockin::rockin::rockin:

extra light dme ---->>> http://www.austinhomebrew.com/product_info.php?cPath=178_21_72_133&products_id=145

my first pliney i steeped grains and used extra light dme. - came out good

Pliny
================================================================================
Batch Size: 5.000 gal
Boil Size: 8.000 gal
Boil Time: 90 min
OG: 1.072
Color: 7 SRM (Mosher)

Fermentables
================================================================================
Name Type Amount Mashed Late Yield Color
Extra Light Dry Extract 6.75 lb
Corn Sugar (Dextrose) 1.000 lb
Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L 8.000 oz
 
Here is the update recipe in this thread...

Pliny the Elder IPA

9.5 lbs LME (8 lbs DME)
1 lb corn sugar
WLP001 yeast

(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 42.9 AAU Warrior (90 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 25.6 AAU Chinook (90 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 12 AAU Simcoe (45 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 14.3 AAU Columbus (30 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 20.5 AAU Centennial (0 min)
(calculate how much you need based of AAU%) oz 12 AAU Simcoe (0 min)

Ferment at 68F. Dry hop 2 weeks.

3.25 oz Columbus (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)
1.75 oz Centennial (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)
1.75 oz Simcoe (Dry Hop 12 to 14 Days Total)

.25 oz Columbus (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
.75 oz Centennial (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
.75 oz Simcoe (Dry Hop 5 days to go in dry hop)
Click to expand...

What you think of that? There is nothing to steep.
 
^^^that would be fine too. the pdf says 8 gal preboil, 5 gallons post fermentation.

so as i think about it more, set your recipe for 6 gallons.

figure 1 gallon for boil off, 1 gallon for hop trub loss in primary so your left with 6 gallons.

8.5 lbs xldme
1 lb corn sugar
.75lb C40

then when you secondary, you will lose another gallon to hop sludge for dryhopping.

in the recipe above is that regular dme, or light?

personally when i did extract i would use extra light dme and steep grains to get to the srm and also adds some flavor.
 

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