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Old 07-02-2010, 07:37 PM   #11
klyph
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Wouldn't it be cheaper to build a dual element RIMS?
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Old 07-03-2010, 12:52 AM   #12
BrianP
 
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My tankless unit maxes out at 130, liability concerns most likely.
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Old 07-03-2010, 02:57 AM   #13
mmurray
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Mine maxes out at 140*... I have a remote control inside the house that I can adjust the temp up to 140* (I leave it there).

I don't know all the safety devices that they have on it, but it seems to me if you could locate and isolate all (if there are more than one) the safeties and find a reliable work around you should be able to hit your temperatures.

The question I have is how difficult would it be and is it worth the effort?
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Old 07-03-2010, 03:13 AM   #14
Sawdustguy
 
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The Takaki T-K3 maxes out at 180*F and is $833.
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Old 07-04-2010, 01:21 PM   #15
Beernip
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My tankless model (Rheem) maxes out at 140* but you can by a replacement temp control unit to bring it up to 160* max for $40 dollars. (I keep meaning to get that ordered.) We've had showers going for 40+ minutes and it hasn't shut off on us.

 
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Old 07-04-2010, 03:07 PM   #16
Brewmoor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klyph View Post
Wouldn't it be cheaper to build a dual element RIMS?
Would this work? Did "The Pol" ever show any testing numbers with that rig he built. I might be interested in building a RIMS unit that could be used for on demand heating. I am interested in what 2 5500w elements would produce in a RIMS tube.

With my new system I could just disconnect one of the Boil kettles and plug the RIMS unit in while sparging. I could see this as a time saving tool.
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Old 07-04-2010, 05:16 PM   #17
mmurray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beernip View Post
My tankless model (Rheem) maxes out at 140* but you can by a replacement temp control unit to bring it up to 160* max for $40 dollars. (I keep meaning to get that ordered.) We've had showers going for 40+ minutes and it hasn't shut off on us.
I have the Rhinni (sp?) unit. I'm going to look for a controller to increase the temp.

But as for a time out? No! I had a pipe burst this winter and once the water stared flowing it kicked on and poured 140* water out of my soffet for the better part of 8 hours until my wife got home from work!!! I burned 60#'s of propane that day!!! But it never turned off the water heater for 8 hours, so I wouldn't think that should be a concern!
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Old 07-04-2010, 05:31 PM   #18
thesanch
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I found this thread about how to make your own using a RIMS setup.
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/rims-build-129646/

Looks like a great system.

 
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Old 07-04-2010, 07:11 PM   #19
rico567
 
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The capacity of a tankless heater that's significant is the temperature RISE: the amount it can raise the inlet water by the time it gets to the outlet, since the water just makes a pass through the heater, never sits in a tank. Ours is 95F, which is the best we've ever had (we've had 3 since 1977, one made in Britain one French, and this one's a Bosch Aquastar.....all propane. Since we're in the country, on well water that runs 55F year around, the math isn't difficult....but. The "but" is that these things are temperature limited. Given the performance of the heater, one would think it'd do 150F, but it's actually 140F. Why 140? Several reasons; first, that is the magic temperature at which hot water burns skin, second, the more you heat the less efficient things become, third, any and all household work can be done with water that hot, and these are designed as household heaters. You will not reach the magic sparge temp of 170F with any tankless heater I know of.

 
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Old 07-05-2010, 05:48 PM   #20
Beernip
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I have seen many commercial units that will go up to 180* but they are a 2k. Not really economical for the home brewer.

 
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