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Old 05-22-2010, 10:37 PM   #1
RegionalChaos
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I'm building a dip tube for my keggle. I'm planning on soldering some copper together, and then holding it into the coupler with a compression fitting. I hear everyone talk about replacing the metal collar in the compression fitting with an o ring or two. Do these need to be silicone o-rings like the weldless bulkhead uses? I'm guessing they do huh? Also, I boil with whole hops. Should I plan on needing a hop sack, or will a ss scrubby work well enough to filter whole hops? I'll be gravity draining through a CFC..

Thanks for any feedback!
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How I brew: Stir plate starters, Extract, Full boil in a Keggle, 10 gallon batches.
Brewing upgrades in progress: temp controlled ferment, stir plate re-work, building mash tun, milling station

Planned House Ales: an Amber, an IPA, a dark IPA, a Mango Ale, a blueberry oatmeal stout, a dry Irish stout, a honey wheat, Apfelwien

What kind of R-Value does your ferm chamber need? - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/what...hamber-190459/

 
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Old 05-23-2010, 04:13 AM   #2

If you're using whole hops, there's no need for a hop bag. They won't clog anything. Here's a picture of my dip tube. It works great and sucks all but about 1 cup out of the keggle. I just put a strainer on top of my fermentor to keep all the sludge out.

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Old 05-24-2010, 11:50 AM   #3
bja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RegionalChaos View Post
I hear everyone talk about replacing the metal collar in the compression fitting with an o ring or two.
Why would you do that?

 
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Old 05-24-2010, 12:43 PM   #4
pickles
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bja View Post
Why would you do that?
It will seal without permanently crimping the tube.

 
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Old 05-24-2010, 12:56 PM   #5
bja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickles View Post
It will seal without permanently crimping the tube.
Why would crimping the tube be a problem?

BTW, my comp fitting seals and I can still take it all apart. It doesn't need to be crimped completely to seal.

 
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Old 05-24-2010, 12:59 PM   #6
pickles
 
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I don't know if its a problem but thats why its done.

 
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:23 PM   #7
RegionalChaos
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I hear it recommended by a lot of people, many of which seem to have a lot experience building keggles or systems. Like Bobby_M. Anyone have pictures of scrubbies under there dip tubes that act as filters? I can't imagine that hop sludge isn't going to get sucked through the system. Hate to have that clog the CFC..
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How I brew: Stir plate starters, Extract, Full boil in a Keggle, 10 gallon batches.
Brewing upgrades in progress: temp controlled ferment, stir plate re-work, building mash tun, milling station

Planned House Ales: an Amber, an IPA, a dark IPA, a Mango Ale, a blueberry oatmeal stout, a dry Irish stout, a honey wheat, Apfelwien

What kind of R-Value does your ferm chamber need? - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/what...hamber-190459/

 
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:25 PM   #8
bja
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RegionalChaos View Post
I hear it recommended by a lot of people, many of which seem to have a lot experience building keggles or systems. Like Bobby_M.
OK, but are they reccommending it just to sell you o-rings or is there an actual reason for doing it?

 
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:26 PM   #9
RegionalChaos
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Jan 2008
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So that it can be taken apart and cleaned easily as needed.
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How I brew: Stir plate starters, Extract, Full boil in a Keggle, 10 gallon batches.
Brewing upgrades in progress: temp controlled ferment, stir plate re-work, building mash tun, milling station

Planned House Ales: an Amber, an IPA, a dark IPA, a Mango Ale, a blueberry oatmeal stout, a dry Irish stout, a honey wheat, Apfelwien

What kind of R-Value does your ferm chamber need? - http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/what...hamber-190459/

 
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Old 05-24-2010, 01:58 PM   #10
Sawdustguy
 
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You don't need the Orings to do that.
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