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Old 05-17-2010, 11:31 PM   #1
OrionPax
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Nov 2009
Minneapolis
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I'm in the R&D planning phase of building a collar and converting a freezer for my brews.

While researching I noticed on a couple of occasions where the brewers mentioned the faucets were warm enough that they were getting excess amounts of foam.

One youtube video even mentioned the use of a heat sink on the back of the shank. Once I find the video again I'll try to link it here for reference.

Has anyone else here done such a modification? what materials were used or where were you able to purchase such an item? Any information you may have on this would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Jason

 
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:51 PM   #2

A simple fix for warm faucets is using a longer shank. I use 5 inch shanks on my fridge kegerator, and I can tell a huge difference between them and the 2" shanks I used to have.
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:36 AM   #3
Tom
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Ditto on the length of the shanks. I think the longest stainless steel shanks I could find were 6".

 
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Old 05-18-2010, 01:32 AM   #4
BillKlineVT
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Aug 2009
Fort Worth, TX
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in addition, some people have recommended putting a small fan in there to circuilate the air better. Since it's a freezer, all of the coldest air will settle to the bottom (i.e. temp stratification), unless a fan is used to keep it circulating and consistently cool throughout the freezer.

 
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:07 AM   #5
Catt22
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Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillKlineVT View Post
in addition, some people have recommended putting a small fan in there to circuilate the air better. Since it's a freezer, all of the coldest air will settle to the bottom (i.e. temp stratification), unless a fan is used to keep it circulating and consistently cool throughout the freezer.
+1 IMO the easiest and least expensive solution it to install a muffin fan int the freezer to keep the air circulating which will keep everything at a uniform temperature, including the shanks and taps. This solved the problem for me. I run the fan continuously. I tried running the fan intermittently which did not work nearly as well. A fan will cause the compressor to cycle more frequently, so it's a trade off on energy consumption vs. uniformly cooled beer, lines and taps.

 
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:28 AM   #6
Tom
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How do you have the fan hooked up to power? And where and in which direction is it going?
TIA, Tom

 
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:43 AM   #7
Catt22
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Jan 2009
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I'm using a 120 mm 110 v AC muffin fan. The power cord is run through the collar. The fan blows downward, although I don't think it would matter which direction is blows. It's mounted to the lid to keep it out of the way. I have the temp controller probe mounted directly below the fan in the air stream and it is also run through the collar. The fan is simply hooked up to a power strip mounted on the wall behind the freezer. I only regret that I did not do this sooner. It works really well. I figure the power to run this little 22 watt fan costs me about 5 cents per day or thereabouts. I have the controller set point at 40 F with a 5 degree differential. The compressor is on 37% and off 63% of the time at an ambient temp of 74 degrees FYI.

 
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Old 05-18-2010, 03:55 AM   #8
Tom
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Feb 2005
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Thanks.
Nice faucets too.

 
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Old 05-18-2010, 05:16 AM   #9
jbthuis
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Sep 2008
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Hey Jason -
You can always do what I did with the "Portland Tap". I eliminated the problem by mounting the faucets inside the freezer. If you needed the faucets to be available full-time, it would not be a good solution. But for me, it is perfect!

John


 
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:45 PM   #10
DanPoch
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Awesome information, Thanks
I'm not the OP but just got my first freezer and am in the R&D stage also.
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