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Old 05-14-2010, 03:35 AM   #11
HarkinBanks
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Jun 2009
Wayne, PA
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I'd suggest swapping your elements for the 1500w ULWD ones from plumbing supply. I have recently blown two elements, scorched an additional one and badly scorched my wort with the HD elements. Plus, with the ULWD ones, you never have to worry about running them dry.




 
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Old 05-14-2010, 03:41 AM   #12
GreenMonti
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Nov 2009
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About a year ago I gave my 2 10 gallon cornies to an engineer at work. It was just today I asked if he is using them as I want to use one of them for my new MLT. I am out of luck on that deal but it is interesting to find your thread about the same thing. Not to mention the tool.

Great work. I like the use of simple things. It looks like you soldered in the fittings, yes?

Again, nicely done.



 
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:28 AM   #13
passedpawn
Waste Allocation Load Lifter - Earth Class
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Apr 2009
☼ Clearwater, FL ☼
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I love the grounding studs soldered to the tank. That's nice. I'd replace the wing nuts with a couple of nuts though... probably too easy to bump one of those wings and loosen your ground ring.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:29 AM   #14
jfkriege
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Aug 2009
Bloomington, IN
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I will try to post a photograph of the wiring.

I am using the 1500W low density elements from plumbing supply. They are half the price and have an easier to clean surface. Jkarp and a few others run the high density elements and have no problem. As well, I always have some sort of circulation going on, so I am not too worried about scorching.

I am quite sure you could still burn up an ultra low density element if you ran it dry. Air alone is not going to transfer that much heat away given that little surface area.

GreenMonti, thanks a lot for posting the tool. It really changed the way that I made this build. It actually also made it cheaper. I simple bought an extra coupling (regular for the 1/4"NPT and a half coupling for the 1/2" NPT) and lathed it into a conical profile. All of the fittings are soldered in.

I am a big fan of simple as well. It was one of the things that I set out to do with this build.

 
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:33 AM   #15
jfkriege
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Aug 2009
Bloomington, IN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by passedpawn View Post
I love the grounding studs soldered to the tank. That's nice. I'd replace the wing nuts with a couple of nuts though... probably too easy to bump one of those wings and loosen your ground ring.
Thanks. I thought about that one for far longer than I care to admit to. In the end it was an easy solution that won out. The grounding studs are 1/4"-20 1/2" SS bolts and are soldered on with high temp solder.

The nuts are on the back side of the kettle, and will not have hands around them to bump them. It is probably better to do what you suggest, but I cant see them being an issue.

 
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:49 PM   #16
lackey2000
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Dec 2008
Denver
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I'm really liking this - good work!
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:01 PM   #17
Boerderij_Kabouter
 
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Dec 2007
Oconomowoc, Wisconsin
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Beautiful!!!!

 
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:31 PM   #18
jfkriege
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Aug 2009
Bloomington, IN
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Thanks.

One other thing I forgot to mention and got asked about is that the footprint of it without the control box is 20"W x 14"D x 36"H. The control box has a 50' cord on it, so I can brew on my patio (shown), in the garage when it is done, or in my kitchen.

 
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:41 PM   #19
jfkriege
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Aug 2009
Bloomington, IN
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Boerderij,

The ideas in the rig is not too far off of the Simple Brewery you built out. Packaging is the biggest difference. I wanted the taller tanks in hopes of being able to play with very low boiloff rate in some future projects.

I wish that I had the rubber coating on the MLT like yours has. I thought about doing something like a thick coating of truck bed liner on the MLT to have a durable and waterproof layer that could provide some minimal sort of insulation.

 
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Old 05-14-2010, 02:53 PM   #20
jkarp
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Jun 2008
Elizabeth, CO
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Definitely a great setup!



 
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