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Old 05-03-2010, 07:08 PM   #11
Clonefarmer
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May 2008
Springfield, MA
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Originally Posted by whodatgeauxbrew View Post
So is there no need to add more water since I am adding more DME? Should we try adding 1 or 2 pounds instead of 3? Does anyone have a good resource for moving to full boil?
You shouldn't have to add more water to boil without scorching, but since you have a large pot it can't hurt.

Full boils are not much different than partial boils. You would boil the top off water instead of adding it after the boil. I think the hop utilization will change though. You also have to account for boil off. On average 1 gallon boils off per hour.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:23 PM   #12
SumnerH
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Feb 2009
Alexandria, VA, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whodatgeauxbrew View Post
So is there no need to add more water since I am adding more DME? Should we try adding 1 or 2 pounds instead of 3? Does anyone have a good resource for moving to full boil?
The major thing is to stir, stir, stir--especially make sure you're scraping the bottom of the pot with your mash paddle. If any DME sticks to the bottom, it'll burn and create off flavors.

Full boil has 2 adjustments to make:
1. Hops utilization is better (less isoAAs precipitate out, so more stay in the final solution).
2. Chilling is more difficult--the ice water bath method works okay for a 3-gallon boil, but with 5 gallons you have 2 problems: 1) There's a lot more to chill, so it takes longer; and 2) With a partial boil, usually you top off with refrigerated water so you only need to chill to 80F or 85F and it magically drops to the low 60s when you top it off.

To solve (1), use something like http://beercalculus.hopville.com or http://www.hbd.org/recipator to enter your hops amounts with the partial boil size, note the IBUs, then switch to a 5 gallon boil and tweak the hops amounts until you get the same IBUs.

To solve(2), you probably want to get a wort chiller (I prefer immersion chillers over CFC/plate chillers, for reasons outlined by Jamil on his site, but plenty of people use the other kinds with no problems).

Otherwise, as long as your heat source is strong enough to get a vigorous boil going it's pretty much the same--start with 6 gallons and you'll boil off about a gallon during the hour. Note how much you wind up with for future reference, so you can adjust that 6 gallons up or down a bit for your setup.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:48 PM   #13
l1ranger
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Jan 2010
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another option, that might be helpful, in addition to going with full boils, is to add some of the extract/sugars later in the boil. instead of adding all 9 lbs at the beginning. add 3 lbs at 60 min, 3 lbs at 40 min and 3 lbs at 20 min (just an example).

the dme doesn't have to be boiled for the full time, and the less time it has in the pot, the less likely it is to burn.

and stir stir stir!
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:20 PM   #14
whodatgeauxbrew
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Nov 2009
Atlanta
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I feel like our hot break took much longer because we added 50% more DME. If we were to added the DME in intervals like the example listed above, will we have 3 different hot breaks to deal with?
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:43 PM   #15
badhabit
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Mar 2010
Evanston Wyoming
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9 lbs of DME isn't a lot. I would second the stir recommendation but would also look at adding more water. The full boil suggestion is a good one....if you have a wort chiller.

 
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:04 AM   #16
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Sorry was at work but boss came up.. late addition is a BIG plus and stir stir stir grasshopper!

sorry you dumped you could have had a faux smoked beer! NEVER dump! Unless its a complete lost cause! had one go "sour" and 8mo later it's AMAZING has a Strawberry back bit that almost went into competition... just decided to drink the last few! so good!
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Old 05-04-2010, 04:35 PM   #17
whodatgeauxbrew
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Well, I always tell my partners to never dump out a batch of beer because of what I have read on these boards. They outnumbered me so we dumped it. A DAMN SHAME.
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