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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Beginners Beer Brewing Forum > cooling wort question
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:34 PM   #11
l1ranger
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i use the bathtub and ice as well.
I do full boils, lid on the pot move to tub of water, add ice.
swirl the water in the tub, careful not to splash around the top of the pot. this will help dissipate the heat better.


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Old 04-19-2010, 05:54 PM   #12
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I'll third the bathtub water bath. I don't use ice as much though. I do full boils, and I'll fill the tube with cold water. Plop the BK in and stir and swirl. Once the tub water starts to warm, I just drain it and refill with cold water again.

I'm hoping to use my CFC on my next batch though. It's all assembled, I just need wort tubing fittings for it. I'll just be using gravity for now too, so we'll see how well that works.


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Old 10-27-2011, 04:45 PM   #13
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I also plan to do a full boil. Lots of good information here. I don't plan on getting a chiller because our city water is always too warm (Norco Ca). I'd have to invest in a submersible pump and a huge ice bucket. So what time tables are we working with? What is a good chill time and when is it time to worry?
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:10 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerzeedevil13
I guess my best bet is to invest in a chiller or maybe get a 5 gallon pot that can fit in my sink since the boils are only 2.5 to 3 gallons anyway.
The 8 gallon almost seems like a waste.
It won't when you start all grain.
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerzeedevil13 View Post
I guess my best bet is to invest in a chiller

THEY WORK SO WELL, AND EVEN WITH WARM WATER YOU CAN GET A PUMP AND RECIRCULATE THE WATER THROUGH ICE

or maybe get a 5 gallon pot that can fit in my sink since the boils are only 2.5 to 3 gallons anyway.
The 8 gallon almost seems like a waste.

AS ALREADY MENTIONED - THIS IS A GOOD POT SIZE FOR WHEN YOU GO FULL BOIL.

The bottle idea seems like a good one if you can get the labels off without any glue being left behind.
AND WHERE IS THE SANITIZED DEVICE YOU'LL FREEZE THE WATER IN? THAT IS, SET THE SANITIZED BOTTLE INTO THE FREEZER AND RISK GETTING RAW CHICKEN/BEEF JUICE IN YOUR BEER.

Thanks for the advice guys.
SOMEONE MENTIONED CARDBOARD FLAVOURS FROM HSA - DIS-SPELLED AS URBAN LEGEND THESE DAYS.

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Old 10-27-2011, 06:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beernik View Post
You risk hot-side aeration (wet cardboard) flavors. I've poured hot wort (post mash not post boil) at 170F and not had problems. But right after the boil might be more of an issue.

Ideally you need to get or make a chiller.

Otherwise, you can buy some bottles of water. Remove the labels. Freeze and sanitize the bottles. Then put the frozen bottle in your wort to lower the temp.
If you add the bottles to the boiling wort those bottles can melt at such high temps.
Best option is a wort chiller or fill this with ice water
http://www.walmart.com/cp/Plastic-Containers/976939
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:25 PM   #17
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I don't want to carry 50 pounds of boiling wort to my bathtub, so I invested in an immersion chiller. To help keep the water going through the chiller cool, I fill a bucket with alot of ice, some salt, and water into which I coil the bit of hose (probably a little over three feet) that goes from the faucet into the chiller. It sort of works like a budget pre-chiller and is WAY better than regular tap water temperature.

-Frankie D.
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Old 10-27-2011, 08:29 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beernik View Post
You risk hot-side aeration (wet cardboard) flavors. I've poured hot wort (post mash not post boil) at 170F and not had problems. But right after the boil might be more of an issue.

Ideally you need to get or make a chiller.

Otherwise, you can buy some bottles of water. Remove the labels. Freeze and sanitize the bottles. Then put the frozen bottle in your wort to lower the temp.
You know, i've never really understood the validity of the HSA argument. You NEED oxygen in the beginning of the fermentation process to help the yeast multiply correctly. That's precisely why we splash our wort into the FV, to get that precious oxygen throughout the solution. When aeration becomes an issue is after you've already fermented the worth and you don't want oxygen mingling with the finished beer.


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