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Old 05-05-2011, 08:59 PM   #201
BigJefe
 
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May 2010
San Diego, California
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Started my parts aquisition today...

Anyone looking to use the Honeywell VR8200A2124 might want to check out PexUniverse

http://www.pexuniverse.com/honeywell...2124-gas-valve

You get that valve and a thermocouple for $68.95 (as of 5/5/11)
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Cheers,
Jeff C

On Deck: Tongue Splitter

Primary: Air
Secondary: Air
Bottle Conditioning: (B10)BLACK hOPS: Geronimo IPA
Bottled and left to Rot: (B05)American Wheat
Drinking: (B07) Peace Coffee Stout, (B09) Apfelwein
Drinking, but running out: (B08) Winter Warmer

 
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:07 PM   #202
cdwiggi
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May 2011
Macon, MO
Posts: 73


First off I love it and it is exactly what I want to do...Though I would like to add a remote device so one could track the temperatures and information much like the brew magic. Any Ideas???

After reading the entire thread and looking at your schematic a couple different times I noticed that the third burner is all by its self. Is is controlled by any switch or do you just manually fire it? In all truth a switch could be put in place that allows one of your PId temp controls to receive info from a third probe on the third burner to allow for temp readings and adjustment of temp at boil could it not?

Thanks
Caleb

 
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:09 PM   #203
cdwiggi
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May 2011
Macon, MO
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Hey does anyone have a fully completed .skp model with all the brackets in place to share?

 
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:39 AM   #204
jlandin
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Nov 2009
Mel Bch, FL-US
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Since boil aggression tends to vary, I adjust the third one manually with the valve.

--
Josh
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Projects: My Keezer - My Brutus 10

 
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:30 AM   #205
BigJefe
 
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Any reason why most Brutus have the HLT on the right, and the BK on the left? I mean we read left to right... right? Is it just because the original was setup that way?

Thanks.
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Cheers,
Jeff C

On Deck: Tongue Splitter

Primary: Air
Secondary: Air
Bottle Conditioning: (B10)BLACK hOPS: Geronimo IPA
Bottled and left to Rot: (B05)American Wheat
Drinking: (B07) Peace Coffee Stout, (B09) Apfelwein
Drinking, but running out: (B08) Winter Warmer

 
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Old 05-12-2011, 08:09 AM   #206
emjay
 
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Jan 2011
Toronto, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJefe
Any reason why most Brutus have the HLT on the right, and the BK on the left? I mean we read left to right... right? Is it just because the original was setup that way?

Thanks.
Takes advantage of the Coriolis effect to increase efficiency.

 
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:21 AM   #207
klyph
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Dec 2009
North Pole, Alaska
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Mine is the opposite, I work left to right.
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10 gallon electric system
Stovetop 110v single vessel 5 gallon system

Primary: saison
Secondary: nada
Conditioning: macaroon stout
Drinking: store bought

 
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:00 AM   #208
Blane
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Jan 2009
East of Slowdessa, TX
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Thanks to Josh for starting this tread and letting me shamelessly pilfer some of his great ideas. Instead of gas I went the all electric route. But the concept is the same

The sea trial of my new system went great. I just have a few tweeks to make to it and I'll be ready to start my first brew with it in a couple of week. I didn't do a photo essay but here are a couple of pics.



Here it is heating up the HLT. I'm using a counter flow chiller as a pseudo HERMS heat exchanger.



Of coarse, here it is in storage mode.

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Old 05-16-2011, 11:31 PM   #209
Killercal
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Apr 2009
Barrie, Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blane View Post
Thanks to Josh for starting this tread and letting me shamelessly pilfer some of his great ideas. Instead of gas I went the all electric route. But the concept is the same

The sea trial of my new system went great. I just have a few tweeks to make to it and I'll be ready to start my first brew with it in a couple of week. I didn't do a photo essay but here are a couple of pics.

Of coarse, here it is in storage mode.
Wow Blane, that looks very nice! Good work. I like to come back to this thread and drool over the nice pics. I'm slowly gathering the Keg(s) <--- have one and working on the next two--- people are mental where I'm from and want at least $10 more for an empty keg then it cost for one that is full of beer (deposit is $50 and ppl are aking $60-$90 for an empty keg). Once I get the kegs ready then I'll go ape-**** on buying the rest of the equipment. I'll be going the gas route because the price of electricty is nucking futs here, unless I brew at midnight!

 
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:40 PM   #210
emjay
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killercal

Wow Blane, that looks very nice! Good work. I like to come back to this thread and drool over the nice pics. I'm slowly gathering the Keg(s) <--- have one and working on the next two--- people are mental where I'm from and want at least $10 more for an empty keg then it cost for one that is full of beer (deposit is $50 and ppl are aking $60-$90 for an empty keg). Once I get the kegs ready then I'll go ape-**** on buying the rest of the equipment. I'll be going the gas route because the price of electricty is nucking futs here, unless I brew at midnight!
People are asking more for an empty keg because buying beer and keeping the keg is considered theft (even if you paid for a deposit.)

The deposit is meant to be a detterent, and cover the cost of the scrap metal - breweries lose quite a bit of money every time they need to replace a keg they didn't get back. They would charge full price for the keg as a deposit if they could, but it would make it MUCH harder to sell kegged beer if people had to put that much money down.

Of course, the law is very difficult to enforce, and I'm not going to tell you that you can't - I don't exactly always follow the law myself. So ultimately it depends on whether or not you're okay with ripping off the brewery (or breweries) that owns the kegs.

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