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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > My new brew system, a brutus 10 with some nice modifications
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Old 05-18-2010, 12:07 PM   #91
jlandin
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Originally Posted by chilipepper View Post
One quick questions is when you go to manual temp control does the PID controller turn off completely or are you just bypassing the SSR on the PID? Great Job!
Ryan
Thanks Ryan! The PID always has power from the 110V terminal bridge, so it will be on when the main power switch is on.

Each of the HOA (Hand/Off/Auto) switches has 24V wired to it. When the switch is in Auto, it is passing the 24V to the PID to do with it what it pleases. The PID will either pass it on to the valve, or not, based on the temp reading. When the switch is in Manual mode, the 24V is not sent to the PID, but instead is sent directly to the valve, telling it to open. See my wiring "diagram" above for more info.

I hope that helps,

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Old 05-18-2010, 02:18 PM   #92
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Wow! That is great information. I really appreciate it. Well done and credit well deserved! Thanks for this. I think I remember you posting a parts list earlier with suppliers so I am going to go check this out. I can't wait to brew so I will have to try and replicate this in phases. Just got my first March pump and am going to brew with SWMBO this weekend. Thanks again!


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Old 05-18-2010, 06:24 PM   #93
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Josh, thanks for your response and the wiring info, the diagram is great. I understand all but the toggle switch for the gas valve. Like I said, I'm a bit of an electrical wanker!

My toggle switch has 6 posts. Any thoughs on which lead goes where? Normally I would learn by experimenting, but I don't want to risk killing my Auber PID's. If you or anyone could clarify this for me I would be most appreciative.

cheers,

k.
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:01 PM   #94
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My toggle switch has 6 posts. Any thoughs on which lead goes where? Normally I would learn by experimenting, but I don't want to risk killing my Auber PID's. If you or anyone could clarify this for me I would be most appreciative.
Sure. Given the six posts as:

(Top)
1 2
3 4
5 6
(Bottom)

You want to connect the hot 24V to both 3 and 4. Then connect 1 to the 24V valve so it is activated when your switch is in Down/Fire mode. Then connect 6 to the PID so that it is activated when the switch is in Up/Auto mode. If you are using the same PID I used, 6 would go to PID terminal 13, and PID terminal 14 would go to the 24V valve.

In any case, make sure you use a voltmeter to double check your switch positions are doing what you want.

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Old 05-18-2010, 09:31 PM   #95
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Awesome! Thanks brother. In your build you used the transformer because your particular valves were 24v correct? Since I plan on aquiring 120v valves, you see any issues with the 120v going into PID terminal 13 from the toggle switch?

They are the same PID's as you have, and if I understand the specs correctly, the power rating is 85 - 250vac, but always good to have a second opinion from someone who knows what they are doing!!!

Thanks again - I'm going to call my system mini Landin! Ha.

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Old 05-19-2010, 03:31 AM   #96
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Thanks Josh that helps a lot and makes total sense. I have the PID's wired up on the bench now and working in my 'test' environment.

One other question regarding your pumps... did you take them apart to wire in the 'computer' power cord or did you put in some kind of splice or switch inline?? My pumps came with about 3 feet of non-terminated cord so I would either have to take the pumps apart to attach a new cord or do some kind of splice which I'm not too sure I want to do. I like the computer power cord connector idea as I have a ton of old power supplies and computer cords laying around collecting dust. Thanks again!

Ryan
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:23 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kgreer View Post
They are the same PID's as you have, and if I understand the specs correctly, the power rating is 85 - 250vac, but always good to have a second opinion from someone who knows what they are doing!!!
As long as the PID is rated for at least the peak input voltage and amperage of the valve, you will be fine. As I recall, that PID maxes out at something like 3A at 240V, but if need-be, clarify the point with Auber. In my case, the valves are 24V at some extremely low amperage, so well under the spec.

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Old 05-19-2010, 12:30 PM   #98
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Thanks Josh that helps a lot and makes total sense. I have the PID's wired up on the bench now and working in my 'test' environment.
This is exactly what I did, and I highly recommend it to everyone doing something like this! I sanity-checked each new connection and component with a DMM as I added to the circuit.

Quote:
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One other question regarding your pumps... did you take them apart to wire in the 'computer' power cord or did you put in some kind of splice or switch inline??
I spliced the two cords together so I could get a nice long cord. My pumps came with a wall plug cord that I cut the end off. Strip the wires, slip on heat shrink, twist wires together, flux, solder each one, then seal it with the heat shrink. I put black electrical tape on the outside to provide more rigidity.

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Old 05-19-2010, 07:39 PM   #99
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J,

About to start ordering my parts for your Electrical build. Now that you had a few brews under your belt, are there any easy changes you would make--different PID/valves etc?

Also, is your system set up for hp or lp?

Finally, was there a reason you chosse the 24v system?

Thanks--looks awesome!
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:49 PM   #100
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I was considering the Auber 1/4 DIN PID Temperature Controller. #•Model: SYL-43X2

Thought the alarm outputs would be nice and Ramp mode for step-mashing? Did you consider this model when you made your choice?


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