Building an all grain system from Sanke Kegs... advice? some experienced insight? - Home Brew Forums

Register Now!
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Building an all grain system from Sanke Kegs... advice? some experienced insight?

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 04-10-2010, 06:31 PM   #1
DansBrew
Recipes 
 
Jul 2009
Rofo, Pa.
Posts: 113


Hello Folks... I'm deciding to go all grain. I have read a lot on the forums here, and just wanted to run some final plans by you folks and see if anyone has some insight here they can add. I want to see if I'm missing anything or doing it wrong before I start ordering and building.

One area where I'm confused is the false bottom on my mashtun. I plan to order a stainless bulkhead through Bargainfittings.com. I don't know what will fit from the false bottom to the pickup tube. I've seen adapters out there, but I don't know which pickup tubes and false bottoms are compatable. Does anyone out there have a good setup right now? I plan to do a batch sparge for now, and direct fire it. I would like to remain upgradeable if i decide to go all out and recirculate pump. I dont want to use a braid, and I would like to avoid a manifold.

My boil kettle seems like its easy, I'm just going to get the same stainless bulkhead as the mashtun, they'll both have the hose barb on for versatility. Anything I'm missing there? Should I get a pickup tube? I planned on just whirpooling with a long spoon and then opening the valve, or I could siphon.

My Hot liquor tank is an aluminum turkey fryer pot. It has a spiggot on it. But as I understand batch sparge, I'm just dumping in the whole bunch of sparge water, stirring the grain, letting it settle and then vorlaufing gently on top? I figured the aluminum is lighter than the steel so its good for lifting, and if i change my sparge technique I can just keep using that on a tier or whatever...

So what do you guys think? Do I have an ok grasp on this yet? Any major flaws? Any help is much appreciated.
__________________
Drinking and blogging does not mix. you strt frgeting to moeve your fingres rigth.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2010, 04:11 PM   #2
wrestler63
Recipes 
 
Oct 2009
Michigan
Posts: 173

Quote:
Originally Posted by DansBrew View Post
Hello Folks... I'm deciding to go all grain. I have read a lot on the forums here, and just wanted to run some final plans by you folks and see if anyone has some insight here they can add. I want to see if I'm missing anything or doing it wrong before I start ordering and building.

One area where I'm confused is the false bottom on my mashtun. I plan to order a stainless bulkhead through Bargainfittings.com. I don't know what will fit from the false bottom to the pickup tube. I've seen adapters out there, but I don't know which pickup tubes and false bottoms are compatable. Does anyone out there have a good setup right now? I plan to do a batch sparge for now, and direct fire it. I would like to remain upgradeable if i decide to go all out and recirculate pump. I dont want to use a braid, and I would like to avoid a manifold.

My boil kettle seems like its easy, I'm just going to get the same stainless bulkhead as the mashtun, they'll both have the hose barb on for versatility. Anything I'm missing there? Should I get a pickup tube? I planned on just whirpooling with a long spoon and then opening the valve, or I could siphon.

My Hot liquor tank is an aluminum turkey fryer pot. It has a spiggot on it. But as I understand batch sparge, I'm just dumping in the whole bunch of sparge water, stirring the grain, letting it settle and then vorlaufing gently on top? I figured the aluminum is lighter than the steel so its good for lifting, and if i change my sparge technique I can just keep using that on a tier or whatever...

So what do you guys think? Do I have an ok grasp on this yet? Any major flaws? Any help is much appreciated.
I switched to a Sanke system last fall and this is what I did. MLT has (2) 1/2" NPTF Stainless sleeves welded into it. One is at the bottom for false bottom siphon and ball valve. Second one is welded 10" higher for a dial thermometer. I used a 10" false bottom made for a Sanke from midwest supplies. This set up works great for me.

Boil Kettle has just 1 sleeve for a ball valve and a bazooka screen.

I still use my 10 cooler as a HLT.

Good Luck and enjoy

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-12-2010, 06:00 PM   #3
Photopilot
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
Recipes 
 
Jul 2007
Oceanside, CA
Posts: 1,157
Liked 111 Times on 82 Posts


Here is my E-keggle


4 holes all welded
  • 1" 1/2 coupler for heating element
  • 1/2" nipple for drain in bottom
  • 1/2" nipple for input near middle for recirculating for chilling with immersion chiller for when i get a pump
  • 1/2" 1/2 nipple for combo for temp probe and sight gauge in a combination

I have only been brewing this way for a bit and am still developing the system. First it was just pouring the heated water into the MLT for batch sparging then draining for the boil.

Then i added an HLT.
Then a triple tier.

Currently I am adding an element into the HLT.
I like the e-keggle for the boil but think the coolers may serve better in the other functions as they are pre-insulated and less tall so the three tier does not have to be so high. Also the manifold for the MLT was easy to make.

I have a dip tube in my keggle but would like to get a false bottom to filter better. You will need at least a dip tube or you will loose a gallon or more of wort.

I do not feel comfortable nor suggest transferring 10 gallons of boiling water at a time. I move water at 1-2 gallons at a time. My quickest brew day was 6 hours. Much of the time was spent heating and transferring water, which looses a lot of heat each time. I was looking forward to using just one element in my keggle for all my heating but quickly realized I did not have the patience. I am hoping an element in the HLT will improve my brew day.

Here is my 3-tier.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2010, 01:37 PM   #4
DansBrew
Recipes 
 
Jul 2009
Rofo, Pa.
Posts: 113

Thanks for the replies guys... I definitely do not look forward to 6 hour long brewing... I think I'll slowly piece things together eventually going with a pump. I decided after reading this to go ahead with the false bottom in mlt. Does the bazooka tube get clogged with cold break from the immersion chiller? or does the immersion coil effect the screen at all? how about a pickup tube? Can you still cool it down with the tube sticking in there?
__________________
Drinking and blogging does not mix. you strt frgeting to moeve your fingres rigth.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2010, 01:50 PM   #5
joety
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
 
joety's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Oct 2008
Germantown Wisconsin
Posts: 1,427
Liked 18 Times on 15 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by DansBrew View Post
I definitely do not look forward to 6 hour long brewing...
It goes fast, as long as SWMBO is Ok with the time spent, you will enjoy it.
__________________
Conical 1 - Empty
Conical 2 - Empty
Carboys - None

Secondaries - None
Lagering in Kegs - None

Kegged: Afterburner Cream Ale, 70/70 IPA, Golden Oat Stout, BLC
Bottled: Oaked Bourbon Porter
Planned: Looking for ideas

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Propane burner for all-grain sanke kegs. telebrewer Equipment/Sanitation 10 07-18-2011 08:27 PM
Building a system and need equipment advice funkybuddha Equipment/Sanitation 4 10-24-2009 02:00 AM
Cleaning burned sanke kegs - any advice? sdsurf Equipment/Sanitation 16 12-22-2008 11:43 PM
Getting started: advice from the experienced rickk General Techniques 14 03-24-2008 02:07 PM
Building a Sanke Mash Tun digdan Equipment/Sanitation 1 06-20-2006 09:06 PM


Forum Jump