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Old 04-08-2010, 12:45 AM   #1
Jan 2009
Albertville MN
Posts: 514
Liked 69 Times on 46 Posts

So I have been brewing in my basement utility room for a few years now. We just decided we are going to stay in the house for a couple more years. With that I want to upgrade my brew room, to more of a "real brewroom". I want to move the floor drain below my equipment, a nice hood and tile the floor, and figure what to do with the walls/ceiling. I need to relocate some HVAC stuff (trunk, air exchanger etc) and some plumbing. But I was more curious as to what to do with the walls/ceiling. I want it to be able to get wet(pretty much hose it down) and not get moldy in doing what say you guys?

Here is a current picture of the area:

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Old 04-08-2010, 01:04 AM   #2
juvinious's Avatar
Jun 2008
Hollywood, FL
Posts: 391
Liked 15 Times on 4 Posts

This looks like something out of a dexter kill......
Primary: None
Conditioning: None
Kegged: Water
Bottled: Pyment | Strawberry Melomel

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Old 04-08-2010, 01:52 AM   #3
Mar 2010
Kingston Ontario
Posts: 446
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when you get drywall get the water resistant stuff(i think its green) they use it a lot for bathrooms and such. also make sure the paint is latex itll help prevent water getting into your insulation cause it works like a rubber coating. everything else looks good. good luck and keep pics comin

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Old 04-08-2010, 01:57 AM   #4
airbalancer's Avatar
Dec 2008
Western MA
Posts: 156
Liked 7 Times on 6 Posts

FRP panels work well. I used bought from HD for behind my sink area.
Brewery Pics

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Old 04-08-2010, 02:14 AM   #5
Mar 2010
Lansing Mi
Posts: 178
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts

Check out this I don't know what your budget is but this is what some butchers use that hose down there walls

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Old 04-08-2010, 02:25 AM   #6
Hobby Collector
IrregularPulse's Avatar
Nov 2007
Posts: 51,064
Liked 3484 Times on 3302 Posts

That stuff is sweet
Tap Room Hobo

I should have stuck to four fingers in Vegas.

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Old 04-08-2010, 09:16 AM   #7
Thirteen's Avatar
Jan 2010
Bowmanville ON
Posts: 132
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

No drywall. You're just asking for mold problems. If you're looking to hose it down I'd treat it much like a shower installation. Concrete board, Kerdi membrane, tiles.

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Old 04-08-2010, 12:39 PM   #8
Sep 2009
Central Massachusetts
Posts: 36
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Stainless, all stainless!!!

Only about $5.50 sq ft for 20 gauge 304:

Let's see...

If room is 8' x 8 ' square and 7' high, that's about 450 sq ft of wall.
450 x $5.50 = $2,475

A bargain!

(you've got to admit that it would be mega-cool, although it might echo a bit)


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Old 04-08-2010, 01:16 PM   #9
jeffmeh's Avatar
Feb 2009
Posts: 2,152
Liked 211 Times on 181 Posts

Another option is to attach plywood with screws and cover with a chlorinated rubber pool paint. I did this an an aquarium utility room setup with 6 inches of insulation in the walls, heating and air conditioning. The walls held up great in a nasty salt water environment (much more severe than a brewery) and I could keep the temperature fairly constant.

That's my cold-side brewing room now, lol.

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Old 04-08-2010, 02:55 PM   #10
Marsdude's Avatar
Jan 2010
Fort Collins, CO, Colorado
Posts: 472
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I like the FRP suggestion.

The Pros are: they come in 4x8 panels, you can get them at HD, it is a quick and easy install, and, if installed correctly, are fairly waterproof.

The Cons are: FRP is spendy, the last time I bought it I think it was around $30 a sheet. You would need to install the panels over drywall, green board preferred, which adds to the expense. Installing FRP on a ceiling might be difficult.

"Thirteen" suggestion to use tile would make a really nice looking room. He is correct that you would need to use concrete board or hardi-backer on the studs to install the tile on. Tile is surprisingly easy to install. I would be more work than the FRP but the results would be really nice. You could use it on the ceiling but I would not.

Whatever you use for the walls - use cove-base molding on the bottom of the walls. Good luck!

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