I know there are several portable kegerator threads out there, but the information was kind of scattered when I tried to find if for my build. For that reason I thought I would write up my build with a parts list and links for anyone who wants to build one of these in the future, as well as some tips and pointers that I discovered along the way. All things considered, this is a very easy project that anyone could do, the only problem is the expense of the parts that it requires.
Above are the parts required for this project:
1 - 70qt Igloo cube cooler ~$50 at Gander Mountain
2 - 3 gallon kegs $80-120 depending on site
1 - pinvalve regulator for paintball CO2 tank link
1 - 20oz "paintball" CO2 tank link
2 - 4 1/2" faucet shanks with 1/4" tail pieces link
2 - faucets, leftover from when I switched to perlicks, dont remember the price
2 - tap handles link
10' 3/16" ID tubing ~$3.50 from home depot
5' 1/4" ID braided tubing - left over from another project
1 - 3 way tee link
2 gas connects - standard from anywhere
2 liquid connects - standard from anywhere
Power drill with 7/8" spade bit
I am using the 70qt cooler since I want to fit 2 3gallon kegs in here. The 60qt is plenty big enough for a single keg and is about half the price of the 70qt. The only problem is there is a hump in the rear for the wheels that makes the second keg sit slightly higher and with gas/liquid connects it is impossible to close the lid.
I also used 4" shanks, which as you will see are slightly long. You may be able to get away with 2" shanks, but I just used what I had on hand.
The first step on the cooler was to measure and drill the holes for the shanks. I went as high on the cooler as possible so that the shanks would slide over the top of the keg in the front, and also so I could put a PVC ring around this at a later date so it will float (project will be documented in the future.) I drilled my holes with a 3/4" spade bit, but this was slightly too small, and my 1" was too large. Instead I just stuck with the 3/4" and slightly enlarged the hole with a dremel tool. The shanks slid right in, and used the nuts to secure.
This is a shot showing how both kegs fit inside with the shanks. I could probably get shorter shanks, but these were what I had ordered and i did not feel like going through the return process.
Next step is attatching the beer line to the shanks. I went with 5' of 3/16" ID tubing for each tap so that I can coil excess at the bottom of the cooler where it will sit in cold water and help chill while serving. Also 5' should be enough to help eliminate foaming at a serving pressure of 8-10psi.