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Old 04-04-2010, 01:38 PM   #1
Yambor44
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I recently had this SS stand built. The footprint is a little big where the 10 gallon pots sit. I got with my fabricator and we came up with the idea to add a Stainless "table top" with a hole for the burners and some vents to let the heat escape.

Here are some pictures of the stand and how the pots sit as well as my drawing of what I have in mind as far as the top goes.

What I would like to know is what are your thoughts as far as any negatives ( or +'s ) by doing it this way?

I was thinking that leaving the front solid would eliminate the use of those small square stainless pieces that Blichmann sends to block the heat from the valve and the brewmometer.

Stand




The piece Blichmann sends as a heat guard


The problem


My million dollar blue print


So what do you think? Is this enough area to cutout? Too much along the sides of the pot? Not enough?

Thanks for any advice. Would like to get this done this week.

 
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:33 PM   #2
willynilly
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I think it looks good. Anyone ever take a temp. of the top of one of these stands with the burners running? How hot does that get??

 
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:11 PM   #3
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I posted this on the 10 tip Jet Burner Topic but thought I would add my findings here as well -

Hmmm. Just gave it a test with the 10 gallon Blichmann pot.

Took 47 minutes to reach my average strike temp of 165*
Took a total of 66 minutes to reach 190*
Total of 76 minutes to hit 200*
and 92 minutes to reach boil.

I'm so discouraged. I could bring 15 gallons of water to a boil with my old ghetto system and it takes over an hour and a half to boil 8 gallons???

I noticed that the sound of the burner was about half of what it was when the pot was not on the stand. Double checked this after the test was over and sure enough, loud and kicking with no pot on. I also checked the regulator and screwed the adjustment screw all the in to close. No change and the flame kept right on burning.

What gives?



This about as radical as the boil got 15 minutes after reaching the boiling point.




This handle was so hot you couldn't leave your hand on it.


Wind guard all blued out now. Should it be further down completely covering the burner?



What gives? It's like it's too hot but not boiling the water as quickly and vigorously as the heat it produces would indicate.

 
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:00 AM   #4
willynilly
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76 minutes to 200F in 8 gallons?

140F rise in 8 gallons equals 9380 BTUs

Meaning that 9380 BTUs are being transferred in 76 minutes

That is only 7400 BTU/HR

Something is amiss... this is not right

 
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:04 AM   #5
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Sounds like your burners aren't getting enough air, especially since they are much louder when you take the pot off. You need to open it up a bit to let more air in. Are the wind guards removable? If so, try it without them. If its better, then try drilling some holes in them to see if that helps.

 
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:54 AM   #6
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Looks to me like the kettle is choking the 'outflow' of air. The gaps between the wind guard and kettle look to be too small and much of the heat is just heating up your stand.

Maybe as a test, if you have something you could place between the stand and the pot that will lift the pot off the stand a little bit (and take the heat of course), then try it.

Many propane burners have a 'notch' in the wind shield such that the intake nozzle can go through the slot (i.e. putting the burner up 'inside' the wind shield instead of below it like yours). That amount of blueing plus the hot handle of the stand sure implies heating the stand more than the kettle.

That thing looks sweet though, I'll be watching your progress. I'd have prob snatched your old stand if it weren't 'nozzled' for NG.
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Old 04-05-2010, 12:22 PM   #7
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I think you guys are dead on. Sometimes you can't see the forrest for the trees. My challenge now will be to build a top that will support the kegs AND allow for air flow. Holes in the wind guard toward the top should be a good improvement. I do have two pieces of the SS tubing left that I could raise the pot up and give it another go. However, my burners all appear to be stripped out where the gas pipe attaches. I have an email into the company I bought them from so hopefully I will hear from them today and can get some replacements.

Thanks for chiming in. I feel better now.

 
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Old 04-05-2010, 12:28 PM   #8
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The enemy of gas burners is that they are pitching out a lot of BTUs, and your kettle is a small area just sitting there receiving whatever comes its way before the force of the gasses pushes the heat out to your stand and ambient.

The MORE surface area on the pot you can heat and the LONGER you can keep the heat in contact with it, the better.

I want to build a heat jacket for a kettle to run some tests... use it on a turkey fryer burner and have the jacket extend up the sides of the kettle, have it vented at the top so that the hot gasses can flow, but the jacket would concentrate the heat at the kettle walls and increase the contact time with each BTU that is racing past the kettle.

Test it without the jacket, and with the jacket... I bet there would be a marked difference.

 
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Old 04-05-2010, 12:41 PM   #9
willynilly
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Yambor44, I threw this into the conversation with Chris that you were having too...

...do you have a way to measure the amount of gas going through the burner. If you can verify the INput, it will help you to better understand what is happening on the OUTput.

I just ran the numbers for my DigiBrew to get 8 gallons to boiling and it is right at 20 minutes with electric (60F-Boil)

It is easier to calculate the BTUs with electric obviously, but this is why if you have a way to measure the gas INput and then look at the output in terms of BTUs to transferred to the kettle, you may be able to get a clearer picture of what is happening. What BTU is the burner rated at with 10 tips?

I think there is a valid point with the stand causing too much blockage and too severely isolating the heat from the burner. Id be interested in what the rate of gas IINput is to the burner, per hour, during the next test, if that is poss.

 
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Old 04-05-2010, 12:50 PM   #10
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Now we are getting beyond my comprehension (that didn't take long, did it? ). Is there a way that I can measure it or will I need a lumber or HVAC person?

The burners themselves are rated at 70,000 BTU's. As I said in CK's thread, I do have that regulator on it and it doesn't seem to regulate at all. Screw it all the way in and it keeps right on burning at what appears to be no change. Maybe I should take that off too. Never used one before.

 
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