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Old 07-26-2010, 02:38 PM   #191
Irrenarzt
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No headache at all once you get it sorted out. My filter bag setup works very well and I see no issues with utilization. In fact my latest IPA (which was made with a hopsack) was dubbed "the best IPA I've ever had, commericial or homebrew" by the brewmaster of my local brewery. I'd say that's a damn good endorsement.

I made the recipe up one day at work during an especially boring meeting.

 
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Old 07-26-2010, 02:49 PM   #192
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Whats the point of using the hopblocker if your using hop bags? Is it just for hot and cold break? I have an electric element in my BK so nylon sacks are out for me.

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Originally Posted by Irrenarzt View Post
No headache at all once you get it sorted out. My filter bag setup works very well and I see no issues with utilization. In fact my latest IPA (which was made with a hopsack) was dubbed "the best IPA I've ever had, commericial or homebrew" by the brewmaster of my local brewery. I'd say that's a damn good endorsement.

I made the recipe up one day at work during an especially boring meeting.
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:10 PM   #193
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It's either one or the other. I tested the hopblocker and wasn't impressed. So I'm sticking with hop sacks. You have an electric element so you are even worse off as whirlpooling isn't ideal so the hopblocker isn't your solution, and neither are hop sacks.

 
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Old 07-26-2010, 03:40 PM   #194
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My bad, when I read your post it made it seem as though you were using both. I just got done talking with Jaybird; I'm having him make me a custom hop filtering device. Hopefully it works. I've also thought about making a "hop sack" out of SS mesh.
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Old 07-26-2010, 04:32 PM   #195
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I've considered stainless mesh as well. I hope it works out for you. In your case, stainless mesh sounds like a viable option.

 
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:00 AM   #196
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So im thinking about getting the HopBlocker but i need it to filter out the trub more than the hops. Does it do a good job doing that. or is it more just for hop filtering. Im trying to find a solution to having to brew extra to compensate.

 
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Old 08-09-2010, 11:55 AM   #197
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Ryan, the HopBlocker will work for trub as well. But I do need to reiterate that it is really designed specifically for pellet hops, not loose leaf hops. For leaf hops we recommend using large muslin grain bags for two reasons - the main reason being wort loss. With the bags you can retreive a large portion of wort that would normally be lost. The second is to keep them out of the HopBlocker. The HopBlocker will then filter out trub and any pellet hops you've used that remain.

Of the feedback I have gotten where brewers are struggling with the HopBlocker, it has been a matter of technique. This product works much differently than a typical strainer so following the technique in the manual is vital:

(1) Ensure that the shield is pushed all the way to the bottom of the screen and both are resting flat on the bottom of the pot. If you are using a keg (which has a rounded bottom), you will need the filter centered on the bottom. Note that this does decrease the effectiveness of the HopBlocker.
(2) At the end of the boil use your stir paddle to feel for the HopBlocker and confirm that it is still sitting properly on the bottom of the pot and not at an angle. Use the paddle to right it if needed. Normally this is not a problem and the product rights itself after being bumped.
(3) Stir the wort vigorously with a stir paddle to create a whirlpool. This causes the hops and trub particulates to settle to the bottom center of the pot away from the HopBlocker. Allow 15-20 min for the thermal convection currents to slow and allow the break material and hop particulates to settle before begging to drain. Alternately, stirring gently continuously for 10 min followed by a 10-15 min rest works very well. Failure to whirlpool and let it settle will limit the filtration efficiency of the product.
(4) Drain your pot until you see the top of the kettle drain fitting.
(5) Reduce the drain flow rate to about 1/3 the initial flow rate. (this will allow the wort to slowly permeate through the hop break material and flow to the HopBlocker without carrying the break material with the wort. Again, this is vital to proper performance of the product.
(6) Use your stir paddle to hold the filter down and quickly pull the shield up with a gloved finger or a racking cane (or similar) so that it is out of the wort completely. It is important to move quickly through steps 6-7 so you do not lose the siphon which will stop flow.

There are pics in the manual that give more detail.

 
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:44 PM   #198
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Great thanks. This is going to be my next project. I do BIAB and have a problem with a lot of trub so this will be great. I just need to add a valve and then get a plate chiller. i figure that this will not work well with a wort chiller.

 
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Old 12-07-2011, 03:05 PM   #199
SoundBoy4
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I'm resurrecting this thread with a quick question:

As I understand it, at flame out you are supposed to whirpool for 10-15 minutes and then wait 10-15 minutes for the hops and break to settle. After verifying the hopblocker is seated properly using the mash paddle you are supposed to begin draining through a plate chiller if you have one. Do any of you have any concerns with aerating the wort during the whirpool before cooling? Everything i've read says to avoid aerating before chilling at all costs... what am I missing?

 
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Old 12-07-2011, 06:33 PM   #200
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You're not going to cause any issues by whirlpooling. According to Charlie Bamforth; hot side aeration on a homebrewers scale doesn't cause any noticeable oxidation issues. He claims that storage is really the main culprit behind oxidized beer.
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