DIN rail power distribution: a how-to guide - Page 3 - Home Brew Forums
Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Brew Stands > DIN rail power distribution: a how-to guide

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-28-2013, 10:14 PM   #21
LandoLincoln
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
LandoLincoln's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Feb 2011
Joliet, IL
Posts: 2,991
Liked 1113 Times on 586 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by MidTNJasonF View Post
And to clarify my thinking in a typical layout where do the contactors fit into the chain if you want an e stop that cuts power to the box?
I'm in the process of wiring one of these myself, so I haven't tried this yet, but this is how I'm thinking it would work...

You'd have a terminal block to accept power from one side of the 50a 240v service. Call that block 1. Block 1's only function is to provide power to the contactor's coil. Block 1 is first connected in series to a 1 amp fast-blow fuse, then the e-stop button, and then the e-stop button is connected in series to the positive side of the contactor coil. Then you'd need to run the negative side of the coil and tie it to the negative of the electrical current for the circuit to work right.

You'd have a second terminal block (block 2) that is electrically tied to block 1, and the output of that block would go to the one of the input legs (let's call it leg 1) of the contactor.

You'd have a block 3 to accept power from the other side of the 50a 240v service. Block 3 wires into the other side of the input legs (leg 2) of the contactor.

Now you'd take a wire from the output side of the contactor's leg 1 and wire THAT into block 4. Block 4 is now responsible for powering one side (120v) of the rest of the system.

Take a wire from the output side of the contactor's leg 2 and wire that into block 5. Block 5 is now responsible for powering the other 120v of the rest of the system.

And you'd also need a block for the neutral, for other neutral blocks to connect to.

That sound logical? I think so.


__________________
www.jolietbrewersguild.org

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2013, 12:17 PM   #22
alien
Recipes 
 
Apr 2012
Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 1,235
Liked 67 Times on 58 Posts


To switch 120V, you can use a 2-pole (DPDT) contractor with a 120V coil. One set of contacts switches the hot wire, the other acts as a latch for a momentary "ON" switch (N.O.). An E-stop (N.C.) in series with the coil overrides the latch.

To switch 240V, you can use a 3-pole contactor with 120V or 240V coil in a similar way to switch both hot wires.

 
Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2013, 02:40 PM   #23
cheez
HBT_SUPPORTER.png
 
cheez's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Aug 2010
Green Side of, WA
Posts: 187
Liked 6 Times on 6 Posts


Quote:
Originally Posted by MidTNJasonF View Post
The original poster linked to and used the 6mm width 30 amp 22-10 wire gage blocks. If I was planning on bringing power in from my 50amp spa panel/disconnect on 6awg (6/4) wire would there be any issue other than cost with using the 10mm width 65 amp 20-6 wire blocks? http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/749/=m2v09c

Obviously I would have to get the matching end plates and jumper strips for those blocks.

And to clarify my thinking in a typical layout where do the contactors fit into the chain if you want an e stop that cuts power to the box?
I ordered the 6/4 blocks from McMaster in my current build since I have 6 ga wire coming in. I hope to get the DIN rail and everything mounted to it today. I ordered several black, red, white, and the yellow/green grounding blocks.
__________________
On Tap
Breakfast Stout
IPA
Irish Red Ale
Ginger Ale
Belgian Wit
Winter Ale

 
Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Power Distribution Blocks skarude Brew Stands 18 06-01-2010 12:45 AM
Control Panel Power Distribution illin8 Brew Stands 19 03-03-2010 09:54 PM
control panel power distribution paledragon Brew Stands 2 02-06-2010 09:14 PM
glass rail for keezer Elfmaze Kegerators & Keezers 9 10-10-2009 02:47 AM


Forum Jump