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Old 04-16-2010, 05:08 AM   #21
ReeseAllen's Avatar
Sep 2009
Posts: 368
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts

Originally Posted by BrewFiend View Post
Do you really even need the washer on the inside of the kettle? As long as the o-ring you have there can take the temps and can form a tight seal. Why not just use that on the interior. Another option is to have a 1/2" copper bell housing on the interior of the kettle. A brass valve can than screw into it from the outside. The large face on the bell housing provides enough to hold an o-ring in place on the inside. SS washers are used on the outside of the kettle. I know SS will eventually rust if used on the inside, mine did very quickly. I apologize for no pictures i'll post a few as soon as I find the old digi camera.
There are a lot of different kinds of stainless. Some are more rust-resistant than others. A large proportion of brewers use stainless kettles and stainless fittings inside kettles and it's very rare to hear reports of rust.

If you leave a stainless part out in the rain for a few weeks, it'll get some rust spots. But for a part which is wetted once and then cleaned, allowed to dry, and then left dry for weeks, little or no corrosion should be expected for a long time.

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Old 04-16-2010, 05:14 AM   #22
Apr 2010
Calgary, AB
Posts: 12

You're right, female NPT to sweat. I use a 1/2" one but would the 5/8" work better for you? My washers must not have been stainless because there was a lot of iron oxide in the water at the bottom after cleaning. I got fortunate because i had a ton of different o-rings around so I found the perfect size that fits between the adapter and the kettle wall.
The valve (sorry i'll get specifics) threaded portion inserts into the kettle and screws into the adapter. Washers are placed between the large portion of the housing and the outside kettle wall. The o-ring does not push in and seals quite well.

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Old 06-08-2010, 07:02 PM   #23
Jul 2009
Posts: 15

+1 on this bulkhead design, worked great..no leaks. Little tricky to silver solder the washer to the copper fitting but it was kinda like sweating regular copper, just alot hotter.

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Old 12-25-2010, 03:56 PM   #24
Nov 2010
Buna, Texas
Posts: 19

I weld copper to steel a lot in my trade (HVAC/R) the advice I would give you guys is get 55% silver flux rods( the orange ones) from your local a/c or plumber parts house. They are made to solder copper to steel. Make sure to clean the hell out of the area to be welded and use flux plus the flux rods.
My Other Hobby:

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Old 12-25-2010, 04:59 PM   #25
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Aug 2006
Whitehouse Station, NJ
Posts: 23,379
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55% silver requires brazing temps though. 8% silver solder melts at an easier to work with 430F.
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:54 AM   #26
May 2009
Emerson, NJ
Posts: 4

Looks smart. Would this work with the ProFlow Type A adapter? I want to use this for my BP return.

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Old 06-02-2011, 08:54 PM   #27
Mar 2010
Posts: 316
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Silver soldered, Washer to Adapter.And a Butt load of T-tape on threads.
Then tighten the B-Jesus out of it.
Only change was i used o-ring that Bar-fit uses for Cam-lock, Q-Disconnects
No water leaks.. Thx, Bobby

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Old 01-18-2012, 02:02 PM   #28
Irishwrench's Avatar
Jun 2011
Johnston, RI
Posts: 103
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Nice write up. You have inspired me. The item number listed for SS washer comes up as a copper 1/2 fitting. Not sure if things have changed since your original write up. I found item number 137697 to be the Hillman SS 3/4 washers at Lowes. Hope this helps those in their hunt for the needed items.

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